Hey Dog,
There isn't enough room to get a wrench around the cam sprocket bolts when they are rotated downward, so that's why you loosen the upper one when at "C" and then rotate to expose the other bolt, but once you have both bolts off so you can remove the sprockets from the cams, you do NOT want to turn the engine/crank.
That's why you THEN remove the cam bearing caps and remove the cams, to release the tension being put on at least one of the valves on each cam. Once the cams are out, you can then rotate the engine/crank without worrying about the pistons hitting any valves, since there are NO cam lobes pushing any valves downward towards the pistons.
Remove the head, do what you need to, then reposition the crank at TDC, put the head back on, put the cams in with the DOTS up, put the chain on the sprockets and position the sprockets to get the 1st cam sprocket bolt in place. Once it's tightened, you can then safely turn the crank with the cams to position the OTHER cam sprocket bolt hole!
T.C.
There isn't enough room to get a wrench around the cam sprocket bolts when they are rotated downward, so that's why you loosen the upper one when at "C" and then rotate to expose the other bolt, but once you have both bolts off so you can remove the sprockets from the cams, you do NOT want to turn the engine/crank.
That's why you THEN remove the cam bearing caps and remove the cams, to release the tension being put on at least one of the valves on each cam. Once the cams are out, you can then rotate the engine/crank without worrying about the pistons hitting any valves, since there are NO cam lobes pushing any valves downward towards the pistons.
Remove the head, do what you need to, then reposition the crank at TDC, put the head back on, put the cams in with the DOTS up, put the chain on the sprockets and position the sprockets to get the 1st cam sprocket bolt in place. Once it's tightened, you can then safely turn the crank with the cams to position the OTHER cam sprocket bolt hole!
T.C.
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