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  • #16
    I would have thought there is an air leak. But an equal leak between 3,4 sounds odd too. I can spritz cleaner at the filter and I do mean spritz(psshht) thats it. And the idle will increase. But I can soak the boots, and vac caps and get no change at all. If there was enough air sucking to change the mixture that much I'd get a definate change.
    If I remember correctly the idle screws on 3,4 were set further out before I messed with it and changed any jets.
    I resynced the carbs and now 1,2 are 3.5 turns out, and 3,4 are 4.75 turns out.
    They were 3 and 5.5.

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    • #17
      Here is the new clip. The camera speed won't allow you to see the sync. But there all hittin just above -15. If you listen to the first clip and then the second you might here the difference when I first twist the throttle off idle.

      Also for any one wondering, I took a close up of how I ran fuel lines. Ran the 2 returns to a T and up to a filter, and to the petcock, and ran the 2 supplys to a Y and up to same petcock.


      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gDJ7rJQWCTM

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      • #18
        HI Dave,

        If your needles are swinging as much as it looks in the video, you really need some dampers in the lines.

        Fuel lines are interesting; seems to work, but the XS does NOT have any returns........ only two feeds; one to each pair of carbs.

        There should be no need for four connections to the carbs..... Where do they all go to??

        AlanB
        If it ain't broke, modify it!

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        • #19
          Originally posted by AlanB
          HI Dave,

          If your needles are swinging as much as it looks in the video, you really need some dampers in the lines.

          Fuel lines are interesting; seems to work, but the XS does NOT have any returns........ only two feeds; one to each pair of carbs.

          There should be no need for four connections to the carbs..... Where do they all go to??

          AlanB
          There are 2 petcocks, 2 ports on each petcock. 4 lines total.

          I do need some dampeners or something. I am sure its close, but not perfect because of the dancing needles.

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          • #20
            That is a good video.
            1980 XS1100 SG
            Inline fuel filters
            New wires in old coils-outer spark plugs
            160 mph speedometer mod
            Kerker Exhaust
            xschop K & N air filter setup
            Dynojet Recalibration kit
            1999 Kawasaki ZRX1100
            1997 Jeep Cherokee 4.5"lift installed

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            • #21
              Dave - Ace Hardware sells some little valves that work great for dampers. You'll find them in the small plumbing parts. I've also been told that aquariums use a similar device, so if you have an aquarium supply near you they may have a damping valve. The other thing that works is a cable tie. Like a little tiny muffler clamp. Just put one over each hose up close to the guage and slowly hand tighten the bolts 'till the needles just stop dancing.
              I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

              '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

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              • #22
                Hi Dave,
                how r the hose clamps on the intake boots,
                mine were leaking from there, i wrapped electrical tape
                around the boots to thicken em up a bit.

                hope u fixed ur off idle stumble.
                pete


                new owner of
                08 gen2 hayabusa


                former owner
                1981 xs1100 RH (aus) (5N5)
                zrx carbs
                18mm float height
                145 main jets
                38 pilots
                slide needle shimmed .5mm washer
                fitted with v/stax and uni pod filters

                [url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pA8dwxmAVA&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL[/url]

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                • #23
                  Dampers

                  I used small c clamps (1.99 each). Worked great.
                  Ernie
                  79XS1100SF (no longer naked, now a bagger)
                  (Improving with age, the bike that is)

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                  • #24
                    Thanks guys. Your suggestions for dampeners gave me an idea. In turbo charged cars a generic way of increasing boost is to put .035 weld tips in the line to the waist gate.
                    That should work for dampeners.
                    I'll try that and re-check the balance. Took a ride today and it still isn't right. Just better than it was. Gonna have to get colortune to.

                    And I'll be wraping some elect tape around the boot ends just in case there not tightening 100%, Then buying new boots soon as I can.

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                    • #25
                      Update

                      I finally got rid of the off idle boggy thing.
                      Once I set all the floats dead on 23mm its great. All 4 idle screws are the same now. 3.25 turns out. No need to open one 2-3 turns more. I have colortune on the way for the final tune once the iggy is finished.

                      I had to do it twice. The first time one was 1mm low and I had to adjust a idle screw further then the rest. Using the carb cleaner spritzed into the filters worked well to get the mixture set. Run them all in untill a spritz makes all 4 increase idle when spritzed. Then turn the idle screws out 1/2 turn at a time untill a spritz cause it to bog down. You've just reached the breaking point at too rich. Now back idle screws 1/4 turn. Thats close to where it should be. I am interested what color it will be from this method.

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