Question about replacing the head gasket

[olebiker]

I believe all motorcycles run better in the rain. It is just me that isn't so keen any more.

[olebiker]

I believe that the snorkel is gonna get the chop. Thanks for the tip.

[DJinNH]

Originally posted by trbig
I'm not trying to patronize you, but are you SURE it's the head gasket? there isn't any pressure right there. What IS a common leak problem is the cam chain tensioner right below that point. Oil dripping there will get splashed up the motor from the wind and appear to be coming from different places.

Also, don't over-torque that nut. It would be better to let it leak a bit of oil. The head can easily crack there at that point if you aren't careful. As long as it isn't hot exhaust gasses blowing past (Which can cut through the metal like a blowtorch) and just oil... it's a mess, but you haven't broke anything.

Tod

Thanks for the info Tod, I will look into it some more and try to figure it out.

Don't worry, I don't feel patronized in the least. This stuff is new to me as I have never worked on a motorcycle prior to this project. I really do appreciated the helpful hints.

Don

[DJinNH]

Originally posted by DJinNH
Not sure how this photo will come out from my sappy little cellphone cam but I'll give it a try.

Right in the middle of the photo, where there's a bolt on a thread that tightens up the front of the seal...or suppose to anyway.

I've tightened it up to the point where I am worried about snapping it. Because it's still leaking, I assume I need a new head gasket.

If you can make out some red coloring...that is a gasket sealer I tried to use. And no, it's not bubble gum.

Don

:

Looking at it over and over again, I am just about certain the oil is leaking from the seal right there where you see the gasket, where I smeared some of that red gasket seal. (dead center in the photo) I can't find any other place it could be coming from.

Don

[DJinNH]

I just got the new head gasket in the mail. Any volunteers to do this project for me? Anyone...anyone?

Damn, I am so not looking forward to this but I have to get this darned oil stopped from leaking.

Don

[prometheus578]

"Fire up the coffee pot."

It's really not that rough, Don.
Can easily be done in an afternoon.

Get some good(not the Chinese stuff) razor blades. Gently, scraping backwards, use these to clean the old gasket material offa the head and the cylinder.
Follow the manual and you shouldn't have any worries.

[Jerry]

2nd to Prom's comments. I had bent 4 valves and had to remove/reinstall the head from my XJ.

If you have any questions about it, replace the cam chain while you have the head off. Chain is $20 - $32 depending on where you get it, buy an extra connecting link.

Parts N More has the complete gasket set for $65.00, includes head, timing, exhaust pipes, and tensioner gaskets as well as others not needed for a head gasket replacement. This is cheaper than buying the Yamaha gaskets as separate items. You will need to get copper crush washers for the oil feed line; these are not in the gasket kit but are used in many brake line applications so you should be able to get them from a local auto parts shop. I put the order on Visa, was charged an extra $4.95 by them for processing an "out of country" order.

Head bolts are tightened only to 25 ft.-pounds of torque, cam jurnal bolts only to 7 ft.-lbs IIRC. A torque wrench should be used so you don't go overboard. Those nuts, like the one in your photo, are likewise not much more than hand-tight at 14 ft.-lbs. Check your manual, I am truing to recall these numbers from memory and could be off. In any case, the values are less than one might imagine. The manual has the tightening pattern, basically start in the center and work to the outsides one set of bolts at a time and alternate sides between bolt pairs.

One tip I received and would like to pass along: If you replace the cam chain, do not rivit the connecting link in place until you have the cam dots aligned correctly with the jornals, and the engine timing mark is on the "T" setting. Much easier to then put the cam chain in place. If you rivit the chain first, as I had done, the process of alignment takes a bit longer as you have to work chain links around the gears one link at a time.

Pulling the head is not that difficult, one person can do it by going step by step. Main key to reassebly is getting the cams properly aligned before you turn the engine over.

You might also want to search on removing carbs for tips on how to expedite the removal and reinstallation of these items.

[boyat68]

One way to see the oil leak is to first clean all of the oil from around the area to be examined. Then dust the area with a coat of baby power (talc) leaving a coating of the powder. Run the bike and you can see the oil displacing the baby powder.

[DJinNH]

Originally posted by DJinNH
Not sure how this photo will come out from my sappy little cellphone cam but I'll give it a try.

Right in the middle of the photo, where there's a bolt on a thread that tightens up the front of the seal...or suppose to anyway.

I've tightened it up to the point where I am worried about snapping it. Because it's still leaking, I assume I need a new head gasket.

If you can make out some red coloring...that is a gasket sealer I tried to use. And no, it's not bubble gum.

Don

:

Underneath the front nut there's that fitting I believe for the timing chain...from what I gather from the manual, I have to remove that to allow my heads to come off. Is that correct?

As you just know would happen, I have every nut and bolt removed but the very last, the one on the bottom of that fitting that you use an allen wrech on. Guess what, it's frozen and now the inside is stripped. I'm trying a vice grip on it but no luck.

Anyone hearing faint sounds of profanity coming from the New Hampshire area?

Still working on it and I will check back to see if anyone has any input. I will also go back and reread the manual to make sure I have to do this.

Damn...this is so much fun.

Don

[olebiker]

That is why God made drills! It is a rule that the last one out strips.

[DJinNH]

Finally got it with some vice grips.

Whadda ya mean it'll probably go better if I read the manual?

Don

[randy]

Don, silly question, but you are using metric allen wrenches, or sockets, right?

[Shuriken]

Originally posted by olebiker
It is a rule that the last one out strips.

Indeed.

This happened to me just lately. I was able to lock onto it with vice grips. Then I inserted the screw driver. Then I turned both at the same time.

Before that incident, I was dealing with a stripped oil filter bypass bolt. Had to get a special socket from NAPA that you tap on with a hammer. It has the reverse threaded spiral teeth in it. Felt like it was just rounding the bolt off but it sank in and out came the bolt.

Other times I've had to hacksaw a slot into a screw.

A few days ago I had to use an impact driver on a screw.

And yes, I've had to bust out the drill a few times. I pull out all the stops before going to the drill....

[dbeardslee]

DJ - When you go to reinstall your head gasket, permatex ultra copper spray-on is an excellent high-temp gasket adhesive sealant. I used it on mine just to add that little extra. No leaks. If you do use the ultra copper, get someone to help you put the gasket in. The stuffs kind of sticky, and it takes two people to wrangle the chain, and to keep from making a mess.

Also, the gasket only goes in one way, so eyeball it good before you slide it across making sure that the two larger holes (for the dowels) are on the correct side. Also a good idea to put your new cam chain in before putting the head back on. When you torque it, it's a two step torque - torque to 14 lbs or so, and then go around again for the final torque of 25 lbs.

[olebiker]

I have never used anything with a head gasket. I wonder what the general consensus is on this? I got the gasket kit in from Partsnmore today still waiting on the cam chain and link.