Clutch Problem

[AlanB]

Hi Chevvy Boy,

Has the bike sat around for a while?... If so, the clutch plates will be dirty; some surface rust on the steels, and little spots of friction material stuck to 'em. When the clutch is lifted, there is not a lot of clearance, and it all drags.

Theory says that stripping it all and sanding/cleanig the plates is best, but I never have much joy with that; Just drive it around and let the clutch work a little.... It should settle down as the plates clean one another up.

My bike's gearbox is a nightmare after waking it up from winter, but sorts itself out over a small number of miles.

If it is bad, I usually put the front wheel against the garage wall and part-release the clutch for a few seconds; just enough to compress the forks a little....... Like a wimps attempt at spinning the tyre. That is usually enough to bring the clutch back to A1... Don't think I would be recommending that plan to anyone else! Next job is usually to change the oil.

AlanB

[ChevyBoy]

AlanB-
Yes bike Has been sitting for 1-2 Years.

I have took Everything apart and sanded the clutches Down twice noe. Still does the same thing.

That would be a Great Idea to Ride it BUT my clutch Will NOT disengage at ALL, once you get it in Gear It is in. The Tire starts spinning imeditaly.

Thanks for the Advice.



Almost to the point of SELLING!!!

Is there anybody Near Lafaeytte LA. That wants it?

[Peter G]

Hi Chevyboy

Don't give up, you own a work of art, the clutch issue can be resolved.

Clutch was working a year or so ago when it was laid up.

So just to get my head round this, you
1. Fitted new cable
2. Take slack off cable
3. Undo central spindal locking nut under clutch cover plate
4. Turn central screw clockwise with phillips screwdriver until it want turn anymore, and then slacken by half a turn, then lock with lock nut
5. Re-adjust cable so you can feel it moving the plates, bite point a tad off starting to move the clutch lever.

So all of the above has been done

You've taken the clutch casing off and checked the mechanism the cable arm connects to moves on the three ball bearings mounted in the casing. When you move the arm up the internals wind out.

You've taken the basket off, de-burred, checked the thickness and straightness of the plates, all with in tolerance. Doubled checked all plates are in correct alternating order

Re-assembled and it still is dragging.

You've Done the Alan B approach, rip the burrs off the plates, we do this with ZZR all the time. Reeve the bike, hold the clutch in and stamp it into gear. That didn't work.

So this is my two pence worth, not sure of the dollar conversion but sometimes spending a penny can be just the jobbie. Anyway an early post from Trbig shows a sketch of the plate housing. i had a very similar issue and had to take drastic measures with a file. I disagree with Trbig on the suspect gearbox components, the clutch seperates the primary drive from the gearbox either it works or it doesn't. You have severe drag which means the clutch plates are not seperating for whatever reason. this .com forum will have loads of experts who hopefully will pick up this thread.

Anyway, below is the pictures of the after 'File attack' my bike has done 200K so needed all the lumps and bumps filed. Once the refurbishment was done all worked beautifully.

You can see the remainder of the grooves in the picture, dark wear spots, i wish I had taken a before picture for a comparison


Good Luck Pete

[Peter G]

Thought you might like the picture of the deburred basket complete with wear spots, My clutch was completely knackered but we got a second life out of her.

Good Luck Pete

[ChevyBoy]

I really dont want to sell the Bike, BUT sometimes I have Juyst had ENOUGH.


Thanks for the Pictures.

WERE EXCATLY did you file?
In the Groves, The Edges...

I will take it Back apart to compare to Your Photo.
I AGREE that there is Something Wrong with the Clutch, NOT the Tranny.

Thanks Again to Everyone

[79XS11F]

Originally posted by mro
I've got barnnet frictions in one XS (pretty sure they be red).
No problems with plates, but did crack the clutch basket in that bike once. Only time it made weird noise or didn't feel right was when letting the clutch out. Once out if you didn't get radical with the throttle it seemed to operate normally. All be fine once I replaced the basket.


mro

That's correct Barnnet clutch plates are red in color and also have occasional "X" patterns in their faces for oil flow as compared to stock.
Rob

[79XS11F]

OK .. so the clutch will engage and disengage normal with normal hand pressure. When the engine is in gear and you attempt to disengage the clutch the engine shutters and makes ugly noise. Is this correct? Is it the engine or the bike that shutters? Have you tried to disengage the clutch with the engine in a different gear like ND? Perhaps this is not a clutch problem. Perhaps it's a trany or engine problem being reveled by the engagement of the clutch.
Are you absolutely sure your in 1st when attempting to engage the clutch. The tranies on these bike are "clunky" and perhaps your not really in 1st. Confirm by operating the gear selector until you see the neutral light and then 1 down for 1st gear.
Rob

[Spookysxs11]

cluch

Mike your springs and check to see if your bolts are streched out. Your spring tention has alot to do with engagement also if the cover berring is bad this will also happen, another thing check the basket NUT for correct torque. Good Luck

[trbig]

This is probably a no-brainer, but worth mentioning. Sometimes, these clutch baskets can be a real PITA to get all the way on. Just double checking that you have done this. The splines on the shaft should be FLUSH with the face of the basket here...






If the basket isn't flush... it isn't installed all the way and could cause the problems you have.


Tod

[mro]

it isn't installed all the way

equals NO oil pumping too....


mro

[ChevyBoy]

79XS11- When I try to disengae the clutch and Shift into Gear it Grinds "like the Clutch is Engaged".
After it is in Gear and I ENGAGE it shutters UNTIL I raise the Idle then It runs Perfect with No Noises at all. The shutter is caused by the tire and everything turning at Idle speeds.
Also I have treid it in all the gears.


EVERYTHING WORKS PERFECTLY WITH THE ENGINE NOT RUNNING.


I have Stock Clutches then< No Red or X's

My cover Bearing Spins FREELY with No binding or Rough spots.

trbig-I have it installed all the way, Cause mine sits flush like the pic. Thanks for that Picture, Good comparison.

[trbig]

This just all makes me go Hmmmm..

What I would then suggest is to find a wall or something to put the front wheel firmly against. Start it with the clutch held, give it a bit of gas, and shift it into first. Maybe it's just cold oil, old parts not mated together yet... See if this lets the clutch slip or if it is definately in gear and kills it. Maybe try a few times to see if you can break them apart. Don't let the clutch out.. just try to let the clutches slip in there.


Tod

[ChevyBoy]

Ok, That sounds Like a Great Idea. I am willing to try Anything at this Point.

I will try this out on Sat. and let Yall know how it goes.

Thanks Again

[Rasputin]

Every year when I break out my 11 it smokes like crazy for the first 20 or so miles. It also seems to run higher rpm's at this time. It also (if on the center stand runs the back tire as if it was in gear even in nuetral. I let it idle like that for a while with a fan blowing of course and it usually straightens itself out within a short time span. Yes it grinds like crazy putting it into gear and does it in all gears. I have lived with it for over 20 yrs now and it shows no sign of quitting. The one thing I did find interesting this year was the fact that my rear caliper had siezed. I had to rev it up to make it smooth. It in fact did that but as the wheel got hotter it also stmbled grumbled mad weird noises etc and the vibration was there as well. When I found the sticking caliper and before I sqeezed it back in I found my rear rotor to be extremely hot. This combination would actually stall the big motor from 1500K revs. Once I fixed the rear caliper it was huge amounts better. I know noises transmit there location so it sounds like it comes from a different area. But on mine the revs are to high or the clutch is sticking or the rear brake is grabbing. Mine has done this since new as we park our bike for many months of the winter. JAT to add to your already mounting replies.

[mro]

So....
Starting out
At idle shift into first (clunk! is normal), clutch pulled in
raise rpm to 1500 and slip clutch, as clutch starts to move bike increase rpm a little (like upto 2000)

Still doing same thing?


mro