It's alive! muhahaha

[stereomind]

hey folks.

The project XJ1100 came to life earlier this evening. After a thorough carb job, which included new idle screws and valve seats and needles, the bike started on second turn, for the first time in about 2 years.

It sounded absolutely bad-ass. No missing, loping, hesitation. Readily revved up to 6K or so (that's all we asked of it).

Now then, the fun part:

The oil seal behind the alternator flywheel is definitely leaking. So.. Next project is replacing that oil seal.

From the earlier threads, I understood that said seal can be replaced without splitting the cases. What is involved in this job? Will I have to remove the old seal piece by piece, and press the new one in (that supposedly does not have the groove)?

Also... Where would one find such a seal? And is the puller for the flywheel something special or can I get a generic puller with a center bolt?


thanks!

Vlad

[ross]

beware of the evil you have unleashed....

hey there stereomind......you, as a mere mortal, can not even imagine the forces you have unleashed.....the sheer power and energy of the universe that you have in you puny hands.....this is no light saber....no kryptonite....no super power...this is the beginning of your end...by the time your quest is done you will be scouring the planet for more fuel for the flux capacitor.....trust me these bikes are addiction.....just remember like substance abuse classes, all members here are anonymous......hehehehe...just kidding....had mine 3 years and just got her running like a scalded dog.....sorta takes your breath away.....good luck with the seal...can't help ya there, but can sit back, drink a beer and tell ya what happens if ya break that bolt...hehehehe....talk 2 ya later...ross

[bikerphil]

seal

Yes, the seal can be replaced without splitting the cases. As for removing the flywheel, check out this thread...

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...lywheel+puller

The seal can be removed by carefully prying it out. You'll probably have to snip at it to colapse it. You can pick the seal up at any bearing house. The size is 32-48-7.8 32-48-8 will also work. When installing, apply some RTV hi-temp to the outer edge of the seal before tapping it in. HTH.

[bikerphil]

seal

Hey stereomind, I might have gave you the wrong P/N. It might be 32-45-7.8 . One is for the left and one is for the right. Better get 1 of each, they're only $3 apiece.

[stereomind]

hey, thanks for the info! I'll source a puller and some seals... and a propane torch. I'd hate to break off a puller bolt inside the flywheel



Vlad

[trbig]

You can also use one of these if you have access to air.. Scan down to Rotor Puller... You'll just have to find something else to order to make the $35 minimum.

OR, you could look around for a 16mm X 1.5 pitch thread.. look for a hardened bolt if possible.

As for the seal, try to get one with a DOUBLE inner lip. Over time, the grit on the old single lip seal could have wore a slight groove into the crank. Trying to get a new seal to seal... could be a problem if this is the case. I just tap a small flat tip screwdriver through the face of the old bearing and pry it out to remove them. If it has the original seals in it, there is a lip on the back side of them against the case. New ones will just tap in. I simply apply a little grease to the seal on the rubber and the outside edge.

There are two different sizes needed. One side takes the 32-48-8mm and the other takes the 32-45-8. The smaller one is the one you need for the right side. I'd order a couple just in case you mess one up on the install...

Tod

[dbeardslee]

Stereo - are you sure it's the oil seal, and not that little galley plug with the o-ring on it? They're notorious and the leak shows up in about the same place.

[XSPastor]

dbeardslee,

Tha galley plug is on the ignition side of the engine. He's talking about the alternator side.

[XSPastor]

6.22 at this website.

93101-32087-00 OIL SEAL

[dbeardslee]

XSPastor - There's one on each side. On the timing cover side it's a pot metal bolt, on the alternator side it's a plug with a pin on the end held in place by the alternator cover.

[stereomind]

There is a little oil plug behind the alternator cover, as well. Right on the bottom. I replaced the o-ring on it thinking that would be the problem. But... when we fired the motor up, the leak persisted, and there was oil on the side of the case right behind the flywheel.

We have a bearing supply shop in Tulsa, and they will have two seals for me tomorrow, double inner lip, $3 each.

We'll see how it goes!

I'm a bit worried about getting the flywheel off, but I'll try the "lots of heat on the flywheel" approach.

This brings up another question... Putting the danged thing back on. Should I get some liquid nitrogen and cool the shaft and re-heat the flywheel before assembly, or just hammer it back on?

Thanks!

Vlad

[XSPastor]

XSPastor - There's one on each side. On the timing cover side it's a pot metal bolt, on the alternator side it's a plug with a pin on the end held in place by the alternator cover.

dbeardslee,

You're absolutely right! I stand corrected. (It seems like I have to do that a lot lately! I missed that plug on the parts drawing but it sho'nuff is there! I guess since it's hard to know whether it's the o-ring on the galley plug or the oil seal itself that is causing the leak, you should just go ahead and replace both. I guess you could try just the o-ring first... Seeing how the bike sat for a while, maybe the crank seal will swell up a bit from the contact with the oil and stop leaking on it's own. I would just do it all and be done with it though.

[John]

You won't need to do anything special to reinstall the roor. Just set it on the shaft, and tighten it up.

[Cobia]

Carb float adjustment?

Hey Stereomind,
Is the carb float level 23mm on the XJ as it is on my '80 Standard? That's what we adjusted it to when we cleaned them.
Having trouble with mine, see thread titled "Stumped with my XJ". Any and all input is certainly welcome.
BTW - What is that plastic "plenum" for, the one with a flap cover just in front of the rear master cylinder? It's about 1.5in X 2.25in at the opening with a plastic flap held on with one screw.

[dbeardslee]

Tim -

It seems like I have to do that a lot lately!

If you ain't makin' mistakes you just ain't tryin' and I appreciate your efforts on various threads. Probably just God keepin' you humble. I understand he likes his Pastors that way

Doug