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When I replaced the tire on my 79SF, the manual called for twisting the fork tubes so as to remove/replace the tire. It looks like you already have this covered but it is another variable in the equation.
Darrell
Those little black flecks the are remnants of the inside of 28 year old rubber brake lines. These are what gets into that tiny "Spooge" hole and inhibits the caliper from releasing pressure after being used.
Stainless steel lines are fairly affordable if you look around online. You can still ride with what you have for a while, but I fear it will be an ongoing occasional problem until you get some new lines.
Tod
Try your hardest to be the kind of person your dog thinks you are.
You can live to be 100, as long as you give up everything that would make you want to live to be 100!
Current bikes:
'06 Suzuki DR650
*'82 XJ1100 with the 1179 kit. "Mad Maxim"
'82 XJ1100 Completely stock fixer-upper
'82 XJ1100 Bagger fixer-upper
'82 XJ1100 Motor/frame and lots of boxes of parts
'82 XJ1100 Parts bike
'81 XS1100 Special
'81 YZ250
'80 XS850 Special
'80 XR100
*Crashed/Totalled, still own
If you have the caliper all stripped and cleaned, the piston should slide back in easily with the pressure from your thumbs; shouldn't be tight at all.
If it doesnt want to go, I bet you have not lifted the main caliper seal out of its groove; corrosion builds up behind it and pushes the seal forward. pop it out, clean the groove properly, and slip the seal back in. Lube it with either a little brake fluid or the proper, red, brake grease.
DON'T use other types of oil or grease, and keep WD/40 and any copper-based anti-sieze compounds WELL AWAY from the rubbers.
Make sure you lube everthing good with brake fluid before trying to push the piston in. Shouldn't need much force, if it does its too dry and you could risk damaging the seal or scratching the piston. Also make sure you are pushing it in square with the bore. You will know when its right cause it will slide in nice.
Make sure everthing is spotless, don't leave any of those little black flecks behind.
Ernie
79XS1100SF (no longer naked, now a bagger)
(Improving with age, the bike that is)
On a Standard, the right front caliper bracket should be self-aligning, as the ajustment is on the left fork. Somtimes the right bracket isn't exactly centered, no biggie.
Guys, good idea on checking behind the seal in the caliper itself. I noticed the bottom edge of that seal sticks out a hair, consistently, the whole way around.
Actually, I did the old bearing in the freezer trick with the piston, and it slicked right in. Just a bit of resistance as it got to the seal, but a couple taps with the hammer seated it the rest of the way.
I got that far this morning but didn't re-mount the caliper. That seal sticking out along the bottom edge made sense, kind of like a wiper to keep good contact with the piston... Maybe that bottom edge shouldn't be protruding from what you guys say?
BUT that seal could be the problem with why it seems the piston won't retract enough. With the caliper off, I can operate the lever and watch the piston come out, and retract, but it won't go back as much as it should apparently.
FYI, I had put the caliper back together last night, on the bike, and there was plenty of pad clearance. Once I got the system filled and bled, the pads again were still slightly tight against the rotor.
So, I took it back apart and that is where I am now, with the piston back in but nothing more. Getting good at this!
I'll get the piston back out and check under that seal.
It seems to be easiest for me to just fill the system again and use the brake lever to get the piston out, otherwise no dice. It's that tight in there.
Hey, since the right side caliper is the culprit and the left is fine (I will take the left apart to clean it anyway, YUCK is what I found in the right caliper) as it relates to dragging pads, the spooge hole would seem NOT to be the culprit. Yes? No? Maybe?
Wasn't asking for my standard. Derwat had new tires put on his special, and the right side is dragging now. I thought maybe this centering procedure might do the trick.
Check the caliper slider. Remove it from the rubber boot and clean/grease it. It needs to be free so the caliper can fully relax when you release the brake. The piston relaxes freeing one pad, and the slider allows the caliper to relax, freeing the other pad.
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