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**randy** · 04-24-2008, 05:45 PM

Carolyn,

I tried, but couldn't find any post about a compression test? Have you done one?

**CarolynS** · 04-24-2008, 05:48 PM

Yep, Nothing in any of the cylinders. The gauge doesn't move. Full throttle, battery pak boosting the you-know-what out of it.
I'm baffled.
Well, at this point...but I have all of you, so that's temporary.

**TopCatGr58** · 04-24-2008, 07:18 PM

Check the timing marks on the cams!?

Hey Carolyn,

Okay, you were able to check the clearances on the valves, and they weren't Xsively close! You should have been able to see the cams turn as you rotated the engine to get each lobe in proper position to measure. So...with the valve cover off, did you rotate the engine with the timing cover off and align the "T" with the timing arrow pointer, and THEN inspect the cams, looking for the alignment dots that should be pointing almost straight UP to 12 o'clock or very close, not a whole tooth space off??

The dots are near the cam sprocket shoulders and should align with the arrow pointer on the center bearing caps! IF they do align, and you have seen the cams rotating, and the valves moving up and down, and you don't have any with extreme clearances, like 1/4" or so, then it might leave just one thing, holes in the pistons??

Are you sure your compression gauge is working??

But, if the cams don't align properly, then even though the chain seems tight, it could have come loose allowing it to skip and cause the out of timing situation and bent valves, much more probable than holes in ALL 4 pistons??
T.C.

**fredintoon** · 04-24-2008, 10:45 PM

Funny numbers

Hi Caro,
quote:-
#1 intake-.24+ #1 exhaust-.23
#2 in-25+ #2 ex-.24
#3 in-.25+ #3 ex-.25+
#4 in-.25+ #4 ex-.25
Are you saying your valve clearances are all at a quarter of an inch?

**jjwaller** · 04-24-2008, 11:38 PM

Re: Funny numbers

Originally posted by fredintoon
Hi Caro,
quote:-
#1 intake-.24+ #1 exhaust-.23
#2 in-25+ #2 ex-.24
#3 in-.25+ #3 ex-.25+
#4 in-.25+ #4 ex-.25
Are you saying your valve clearances are all at a quarter of an inch?

I think these are millimeters.
Least I hope they are!!!

**jjwaller** · 04-24-2008, 11:42 PM

Originally posted by CarolynS
Yep, Nothing in any of the cylinders. The gauge doesn't move. Full throttle, battery pak boosting the you-know-what out of it.
I'm baffled.
Well, at this point...but I have all of you, so that's temporary.

Make sure the throttle butterflies are fullu opened. i.e. Twist the throttle open. Had a brain fart once and thought compression was bad. Makes a big difference!!!
Can't get air in to compress with the butterflys closed.

**egsols** · 04-25-2008, 04:18 AM

Its wierd to have zero compression in all cylinders. With plugs out and engine cranking do you feel any air coming out of spark plug hole?

**randy** · 04-25-2008, 04:37 AM

It is very wierd to have zero on all four. If the cam timing checks out like TC wrote, doublecheck your compression guage on a known good engine, If the guage is OK, pour a teaspoon of oil in each of the cylinders and re-check compression. If the compression comes up, the problem is your rings, they're probably stuck from sitting inactive for a long time.

BTW, dumb question - are the head nuts tight?

**Flatlander** · 04-25-2008, 11:57 AM

Is this the same problem you are having that you posted on another thread?

CarolynS, you got me confused here. You posted this, on "Calling all GURU'S",
Update...
Okay, with the fresh gas it backfired out of the exhaust twice on either side, but it's also backfiring out of the airfilter. We figured we'd better check the air filter to make sure we had no "squatters"(mice), and when we took it off it was full of gas, obviously from trying to get it to run.
So, we have fire, we have compression-that leaves either completey gummed up carbs or a timing issue, or both. I still think the valves could use an adjustment and he said that he noticed somewhere in our research, that there's a timing chain that is supposed to be adjusted every 3K miles. The bike has 49K on it. What if it's been 20K since that and the valves were done? That would contribute to some of it, I'm sure.
I'm planning on trying to bring it home tomorrow, and I think the first thing to do is to remove the carbs and get them clean. Once we know they are functioning properly, it should be easier to diagnose the problem.
I'm sure alot of you have faced this same problem trying to resurrect an old XS that you picked up cheap because the PO didn't want to spend the $/or didn't know enough to remove the carbs and clean them, adjust them.
If that is what the problem is-Boy! Did I make a killing getting this bike for $400!!!!
I almost feel guilty.......yeah, right!

Then there were some other posts, then I posted this,
Hey CarloynS,
Carb cleaning is a good idea, but at this time do a compression test. I just had something like this happen to me. And if your PO new something about the head it leads me to believe that they may have had the head off? And in reassembly something might be off with the cam timing. Just a possibility. The compression should be 142 psi with a maximum difference of 14 psi between cylinders. My suggestion is also to stop trying to start it until you know more. Good luck.

Then you posted,
Oh, no. We stopped trying to start it right then. I was concerned about gas in the oil too, so I'm waiting to get some free time to dedicate to it, plus I'm making the phone calls and trying to track down places to get parts and how long will it take to get them.
While everything's apart-just carbs or APART-I want to do all the other things that may need attention. It's alot of research-thankfully this site exists-and time, but I wanted a hobby and this is the one I chose.
It's going to be great to make the investment, have fun doing paint, polish, etc. and then actually be able to see all of the work and expense(minimal compared to owning a HD)pay off when I'm out riding around and having people say "What kind of bike is that?"

Is this all the same thing going on here with this new post? Or are you now working on something else?
If it is still the same bike, then I'm assuming that the cam timing is correct, because you are now trying to start it again.
There are some very smart and helpfull people on here that can pin point you right to the problem.
I'm trying to learn something here and if this is the same bike then you've got me going in circles.

**tiredoffixing** · 04-25-2008, 12:58 PM

If it is backfiring you may have the coil leads crossed. Just an idea. Im fairly new to this bike. I have spent the last year tring to get mine running. With all the help on this website my bike is finally runing strong. Lot of very helpful people on here.

**CarolynS** · 04-25-2008, 02:12 PM

Flatlander

I apologize. I am new to this whole forum thing and really am only now starting to figure it out. It seems easier to start a new thread than to search for one that is dormant because of it's age, or how many other postings are going on. Lazy me. I will try to stay in one spot from now on.
This is the same problem. I had one bike(79) that ran, but was a rat; so in looking for parts I found another bike(80) that is gorgeous, but won't run.
We're at the point of deciding to swap heads between the 2, and going from there. So I will be asking alot of questions here on this thread because I plan on doing this work in a timely manner, which means the thread won't get pushed out.
The cam position will be checked today(80) along with the compression, valves and cam positions on the 79. If all is good, the head(79)will be removed and sent out for a quick fixer upper, and placed onto the 80 engine and a new cam chain installed-per Guru recommendations. The odds and ends of this procedure is what I'm worried about. While the head is out, I'll be polishing my valve cover. It's when I get it back that the battle begins, and with it the questions, recriminations, remorse and broken nails!

**malber** · 04-25-2008, 02:36 PM

Carolyn, I was going to PM this to you but apparently your PM box is full.

You said that the 79 is running, but isn't pretty. How bad is it? If it runs, you may have things backward: use the 1980 as a parts bike and ride the 79. Even the fairing should be swapable, but I think you'll be happier without it or with a lighter windshield. Most people don't ride an Eleven as a show machine, like a Harley. We ride the crap out of them and maintain them as best we can.

I think you'll be less frustrated with this option. Riding is much more satisfying than wrenching, at least it is for me. I don't really care that I've got rust on my headers, or that my rear springs have a bit of cosmetic rust, or that the paint on my triple tree is chipped. I just enjoy the rush I get opening up the throttle getting up on 93 or tooling about some of the back roads around here. If you can get away with that on the 79 then you are ahead of all the cagers out there regardless of what the bike looks like. And cosmetics is something that is a lot easier to work on over time than fixing bent valves or trading over an engine head.

Do you have pictures?

**DiverRay** · 04-25-2008, 02:46 PM

If the '79 runs, do a complete engine swap! it will take less time than changing the head. You can THEN pull the "bad " engine apart, repair it, and put it back in at a later date. Between now and then, you are RIDING , and working at your YOUR pace on the "correct" engine.
Just my thought, your space and time may vary.

**prometheus578** · 04-25-2008, 03:06 PM

"Malber presses his luck."

Go ahead, Malber...
Go ahead and tell a woman that cosmetics aren't important.
Cosmetics are everything!

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