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Thanks ... I did manage to get one out with a threaded rod and then while getting other supplies I grabbed a 19 mil bolt and 2 nuts, just like you have there, which worked real well.
Rob
I stuck a tire iron down the end of mine to hold it. The friggin allen bolts stripped the top, the allen wrench just wollered the hole out. I had to use an easy out to get em loose. I put new bolts in but no loctite or sealer or anything. So I should probably fix that too?
1980 XS11SG
Dunlop elite 3's, progressive fork springs, tkat brace
Stock motor, airbox, carbs, exhaust
ratted out, mean, and nasty
I put new bolts in but no loctite or sealer or anything.
The locktite really isn't necessary, but if you do use some, use the blue type. Although, you should use those copper crush washers. BTW, the above pictured tool won't work on the Special forks. There isn't a 12pt. socket in the damping rod, it's just round.
The trick that's always worked for me when disassembling Showa forks is pull the damper rod bolt FIRST; before you pull the fork cap or spring out. The spring sits on top of the damper, and the preload has always been enough to keep the damper from turning.
Of course, you now have a giant leak and the old fork oil gets everywhere, but it pretty much does anyway, so....
And for you guys with extra lower trees or parts bikes; a spare lower tree clamped in a vice makes a dandy 'fixture' for working on the forks, and no worries about boogering the tube.
'78E original owner
Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two
'78E original owner - resto project
'78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
'82 XJ rebuild project
'80SG restified, red SOLD
'79F parts...
'81H more parts...
Other current bikes:
'93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
'86 XL883/1200 Chopper
'82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...
For what it's worth, on my vintage dirt bike forks you screw a bolt in thru the drain hole which locks the inner from turning. Then you can then remove the bottom bolt. Reverse to assemble.
I am doing my seals today, pulled mine apart and there apears to be 2 seals per tube...this is on a '79 special..... there is the normal seal that i got off line but there was a smaller seal, as far as height goes, under that with a big washer under it.
sooooo whats the deal? do i need to get these others? and where? i didnt see them on the site i got the regular seals from.
thanks as always
-Genius
1979 XS1100 SF "Black Goblin"
-Pod Filters
-4-1 pipe
-larger jets for carbs
1982 XJ1100 "Black Sheep"
Yes the forks have 2 seals per leg. You have the larger outer "dust" seals and the inner "oil" seals. If the forks are not leaking oil the inner seals can be left alone. If their leaking oil then the inner seals need to be changed and your outer dust seals may still be good.
Rob
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