More Fun With Cam Chain Tensioners

[lakecountrydave]

I have read my Clymer's and the many threads dealing with the cam chain tensioner. I have the oil leak from the plug that seems pretty common. It looks as though a PO has fixed it with a small metal plug of some sort and filled the around the top and sides with JB Weld(?). There is a small indentation on the bottom that seems to be the source of the leak.



If I turn the crank so the pointer is to the "C" can I loosen the adjusting bolt and remove the housing? I guess more importantly, would I the be able to simply reinstall the bolts and tighten the adjuster if I did not move the crank? How should I go about removing the old fix? Or should I just try to get a little silicone into the indentation?

One more question. I believe that I have an oil pan gasket that is leaking. Can I just buy a sheet of gasket at the auto parts store and cut it myself, or is this a rubber o-ring like gasket? I am changing the oil tomorrow, so I'd rather fix it than wait for a part.

Dave

[Ken Talbot]

You are on the right track, Dave. Just be sure when you set the crank to the "C" mark that you do it in a nice motion just to the mark without overshooting. If you overshoot by even just a bit, turn it another full round to sneak up on and ad exactly on the mark. NEVER TURN BACKWARDS, EVEN FOR JUST A LITTLE BIT TO GET TO THE "C" MARK. Once you're on the mark, you can safely remove the adjuster, clean it up, fix the PO's nasty mess, and reinstall it. Check a few of the tech articles for info on checking for range of motion, etc.

The oil pan gasket is a flat gasket, not an o-ring. With a bit of gasket material, an exacto knife, and a bit of patience, you can make your own.

[lakecountrydave]

Thank you

Ken,

Thank you!!! I greatly appriciate your incite, and quick response. It is going to be 50/sunny here tomorrow (today), and my turn signal stud finally arrives. Looks like it's time for the first ride of the season

Dave

[prometheus578]

You don't have to loosen the adjusting bolt to remove the tensioner. It will stay in place.
Now then... when reinstalling the tensioner... depress the plunger fully and lock it in that position. Install the tensioner, release the plunger and then relock it.

[AlanB]

Hi Dave,

If you have read the threads, you should know this anyway, BUT...... remember that the XS11 turns over the opposite way to every other bike on the planet!

As you look at the ignition marks, the crank turns CLOCKWISE........so that the "slack" run of the camchain is at the front.

Are there ANY other bikes which do that?

AlanB

[lakecountrydave]

Ken/Prom/Alan - Thanks for the help!

I wish I had read Prom's tip first. I did loosen the adjuster during removal, but I finally figured out that I was not going to thread the bolts back in (straight) until I neutralized the spring. I was completely paranoid about turning the engine the wrong way with all of the warnings. I checked the book twice with the wrench on the bolt just to make sure. What exactly happens when you turn it the wrong way anyway?

Now I just have to wait until tomorrow to see if she holds

Dave

[TADracer]

If you turn the wrong way it will put the cam chain in tension instead of in slack on the front side of the motor. Remove the spark plugs and the motor will be easy to turn over and once you hit the mark and remove the tensioner...do not turn the motor until you have the tensioner back in. It is possible for the cam chain to jump a tooth...bad!

After you clean the tensioner, push the plunger all the way in and pinch it there with the pinch bolt. The tensioner can go right back in and you can make a new gasket out of simple gasket material. Tighten the two allen bolts to 14.5 lbs/ft and then release the plunger and you should hear a click. Then tighten the plunger pinch bolt to only 7.5 lbs/ft (Just a bit more than snug) and thats it.

I believe the small center plugs are still available here and there and the last time I put one in I set it in a bit of black RTV and the leaks stopped.

[prometheus578]

Yamaha still has the plugs for a couple bucks.

[skids]

Tighten the stopper bolt and the buddy nut according to the procedures (sorry, I can't give you the torque numbers) because too loose and she slips, too tight and you strip the threads. Either mistake will bend the valves. Find a THIN sheet of gasket material. There is supposed to be some adjustment range, but seriously, even with a new chain, there might not be much available, so maximize your chances by not using thick gasket material.

[Jeremy_Sells]

I have fought with this leak for the 9 years that I have had my Special. I have gone through a couple of new plugs and they always seem to seep no matter what I do. I was thinking the other day that if I bought the right tap, I could put some threads where the rubber plug goes and then use a hex plug with some thread sealer. Any thoughts on that?? I just hate getting my engine oily!

[prometheus578]

A novel approach, Jeremy. No reason why that wouldn't work.

[AlanB]

Hi jeremy,

You need to start by figuring out WHERE it leaks...... then find out WHY!

A new plug, properly fitted should not leak; Is it really leaking from there?.... any leak in that area drips from the end of the tensioner, making it LOOK like the plug drips!

My SG and a buddie's "E" both have almost identical cracks in the cam chain tunnel, behind the 10mm nut. The amount of oil which leaks is very small...... but it drips off the end of the tensioner.

Hope you get it sorted out soon!

AlanB

[skids]

Alan is right. If there is a plug in the crankcase breather tube (or at the manifold thing in the airbox), pressure will build in the crankcase and it will force oily leaks where ever it can.

Originally posted by AlanB
Hi jeremy,
You need to start by figuring out WHERE it leaks...... then find out WHY!
AlanB

[Ken Talbot]

XS's are also notorious for leaking valve cover gaskets. Usually they start to leak on the inside of the "H" where it it impossible to see without taking off the tank. The oil can seep forward, through some drainage channels, then down the front of the motor. Then, like AlanB says, it collects on the end of the cam chain tensioner, builds up a drop, and makes you think the tensioner is leaking.

[planedick]

Tensioner plug...

I had similar problems with the plug. Since I have a lathe, I made a plug out of aluminum that is a press fit and pressed it in. No more leaks at all.

PS, It don't look like it leaks much as metal don't rust when it has oil on it.