Small Leak From Cam Adjuster??

[XSrunner]

Hi Iam new to your great site I'm from Australia And Just bought my xs1100e 1978 model serial no. 2h7-0005199. Can someone help with a small leak coming from the front cam adjuster,is it suppose to have a cover over the hole or is there a o'ring inside maybe broke. thankyou.

[prometheus578]

It takes a small round rubber/plastic plug. Still available from Yamaha.
Or.. take the old one out, clean it and the hole with Brakleen or whatever spray can solvent is available to you chaps. Goob the plug up with silicone sealer and pop it back in.
Obviously, let the silicone cure for a while... then keep an eye on it to check for leaks and that it's not working its way out.
I put a thin piece of wire over mine and held it to the tensioner body with a small automotive hose clamp just to make sure it stayed in place. (it was popping out during a cross country trip)

[trbig]

Although as Pro stated, that's where most of the leaks come from on the adjusters, they can also leak from around the set screw and nut on the side. There is a small O-ring inside there. It can also leak around the gasket between the adjuster and the head. All of these spots leaking will make a bit of a mess and show a drop off oil on the end of the adjuster as it runs down when you are stopped. So.... just because a drip of oil is at the end, doesn't mean it is coming from the cap... but it may! lol.

These adjusters really are a pain sometimes when they start leaking, but none of the fixes to it are expensive. Just make sure you follow the cam chain tightening steps in the manual if you choose to take it off to replace the gasket.


Tod

[mro]

NewBe

I see you have a 2h7 "import"
Remember last year there were a couple for sale down under that were in very nice condiction.

Have any pics of your XS ???


mro
BTW, welcome to XSland

[exquized1]

Ya pics pics we want pics!

[DeanR]

Is that small o-ring easy to replace and still available?

[trbig]

Is that small o-ring easy to replace and still available?

First, you will want to read how to adjust your cam chain. Put the timing mark on the T, making sure to only turn it clockwise. If you go past the "T", just spin it around again. It makes it easier if you pull the spark plugs, but you don't need to. This puts all the play to the front side of the chain where the tensioner can pull the XS slop out. Then you can remove the two allen screws that hold the adjuster in place to the cylinders. It also may be easier to loosen (But don't remove yet) the nut and set screw while it's still on the motor.

After it's off, you can take the set screw all the way out.. but *WARNING!!!* When you start to back this screw all the way out, the rubber tipped plunger on the adjuster will pop out. Just keep your hand over it.

Once you have it off, if you also take the end cap off that is on the opposite end as the plunger foot, you will see that there is a small O-ring in that goes around that shaft also.. as well as the set screw bolt.

Most decent hardware stores have a pretty good selection of O-rings in a bin somewhere. I don't know if they are still available from the dealer, but one from the hardware store will be MUCH cheaper. Also, if you get some bulk gasket material from the auto parts store, this is a really simple gasket to make yourself. Cheap and kind of fun. The dollar store has paper hole punches for around a buck that clips out the screw holes in the gasket really well. It's also been said that a small water pump gasket off of a Ford will work... I just don't recall what type of motor it was... Surely someone will chime in and tell you.

When you go to install the adjuster, push the plunger all the way in with your hand and tighten the set screw. After you install the adjuster, loosen the bolt so the adjuster plunger slaps the chain.. you'll hear it. Tighten GENTLY. This screw strips out easily. You don't need a bunch of torque on this screw since the nut holds it in place anyway. The screw is only 4.3 foot pounds and the nut is only 6.5 foot pounds.


Tod

[DeanR]

Thanks Tod, I've replaced the plug and done the adjustment procedure a couple times but have not had a look at that little o-ring, which I suspect weaps slightly....

[XSrunner]

THANKS GUY'S FOR THE GREAT HELP THE LEAK IS FROM THE END IT HAS NO RUBBER PLUG AT THE END AT ALL WHEN YOU LOOK AT IT FROM THE FRONT YOU HAVE A LARGE HOLE THEN INSIDE ABOUT 1/4" IN ANOTHER SMALLER HOLE. BUT BUNG PLUG ON END. AS FOR PICS I'M NOT SURE HOW TO ADD THEM I CLICKED ON THE IMG BUTTON AND IT ASKED FOR A HTTP\\ I DON'T UNDERSTAND THE ADDRESS PART. WHAT HAPPENED TO THE OLD CUT AND PASTE?? JOB. I FOUND A GREAT SITE WITH MICRO FISHE BRAKEDOWN ON PARTS IF ANYONE IS INTERESTED IT HAS THAT PLUG LISTED.HERE'S THE ADDRESShttp://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-xs1100e-1978_model8671/partslist/THANK AGAIN FOR THE HELP.

[Guy_b_g]

Trbig,

Don't you use the "C" mark for cam chain adjustment, and the "T" mark for cam timing (TDC)?

[skids]

You are right. C for cam adjustment, T for lining-up cams.

Originally posted by Guy_b_g
Trbig,

Don't you use the "C" mark for cam chain adjustment, and the "T" mark for cam timing (TDC)?

[TomB]

XSrunner

An alternative source of oil leak can be a hairline crack in the cylinder block.

Just above the camchain tensioner is the camchain tunnel and where it bolts to the head with (I think) a M6 bolt, sometimes this bolt is over tightened and can cause a crack in the casting beneath it.

Oil weaps from this crack, runs down the tensioner and forms a drip appearing to come out of the tensioner.

Try all the fixes, at the same time degrease the engine around this area and dry off well, then run the engine up to temp and have a close look, if oil is weaping from there.

My XS has this fault and I've seen many more.

All I do with mine is degrease and wipe a thin smear of clear silicon mastic sealant on the outside of the block on the crack. It lasts a few years and when the weep returns clean off and seal again in a couple of minutes. The correct method I 'spose would be welding the block or a new block but WTF

You say your end plug is missing so that'll be the likely cause, just thought I'd mention it on this post in case other folk have a similar problem

[Hired_Goon]

Originally posted by TomB
The correct method I 'spose would be welding the block or a new block but WTF

Negative Batman, tried welding but the guy I got to do it couldn't get it to stick. Cast alloy or someting like that just meant it turned to mush.

New barrels would be the best option, but I just used aluminium putty while I had it off. Sets like steel and sticks like glue to a clean surface.

[TomB]

Yeah I 'spose Metal putty would boss the job good, good tip.

I use it work, I'm sure my boss won't mind me using a bit

We also have a real good welder in our pipefitting shop (I'm a Mech Fitter at a Pharmaceutical plant) who's done some nice jobs on cast ali sumps in the past, he reckons its all in the degreasing coz the ali is porous.

If I open up my engine sometime I'll consider it, but whilst it runs great I'll leave it altogether

[trbig]

Don't you use the "C" mark for cam chain adjustment, and the "T" mark for cam timing (TDC)?

You are correct. See why I said you need to read up about it in the manual?? lol. Sorry about that.

XSRunner,

What you described is indeed what you'd see with the plug gone. The bigger opening in the end is where the plug goes, The smaller opening with the "Bung plug" that you see, is actually the end of the adjuster plunger. You could take out the adjuster and replace the O-ring, but whether you choose to do that or not, I would get a plug for the end to keep the creep and crud out. If you follow Pro's recommendations by cleaning first, then apply some sort of sealer to the plug before you installed it, any oil that is seeping by the O-ring would stay retained in the little plug. Sometimes even new O-rings will seep... but might not. Your call on that. All you're trying to do is keep the oil off the motor, you aren't losing enough quantity-wise to make any difference.

Tod