Slipping starter!?

[corey]

After searching the forum, I'm still left with a question. You see, my starter chugs along and works like it is supposed to, but occassionally (say, every other starting attempt) stops turning the engine and free spins. It spins for a second or two, then something stops it. If I hit the button again, it will usually chug the motor just fine. Again, this is only intermitent, and the engine still turns over with the kickstarter.

It seems to me like a few of the gear teeth are stripped. Before splitting the case, however, I was wondering if lubrication issues could be the culprit. I'm running Castrol 20w50. I should note that I just dumped two quarts or so of gas with my oil (lousy petcocks/floats). Could the contaminated gas or the 0 degree weather here in Northeast Missouri cause these problems?

Any help and experience, as always, is appreciated.

[planedick]

Actually

There is a gear on the starter that has a one way bearing and sometimes it won't engage. Usually temperature related. The oil doesn't really get to it so it usually doesn't matter what kind you use. Yes it is impossible to get to without major disassembly and it gets dry.

[corey]

Thanks for the quick response.

Do I need to open it up and lube the bearing then or should I just try not to fret about it until it gets warm?

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Corey,

IF you'll look at the Microfiche online, you'll see that the gear with teeth is up at the starter motor section. But the one that's causing you the problem is the starter CLUTCH down in the engine and oil, it fits around the main shaft, has 3 pinch rollers that when turned one direction slide down against the shaft and grab it kinda like a pipe wrench. But with very cold temps and thick oil, it can occasionally slip. But like you stated, will usually grab after a while. So..don't worry about it while the temps are very cold!
T.C.

[corey]

That is a relief. It all makes sense after looking at it.

I'm used to living down south were the weather was much more tolerable, for both me and my bike evidently. Guess we'll both have to get use to subzero temps, eh?

[skids]

Full synthetics and thick viscosity oils seem to make mine worse during cold weather. I know that the bigger number on the multigrade oil designation (ie, 20W50) is supposed to represent the viscosity at higher temperatures and the lower one is supposed to govern at lower temps, so using 10W50 in winter temps "shouldn't" make a difference, but it does.

Put a heater near the crankcase to warm it up as much as you can (in a garage?) and it will help the starter stay engaged long enough to fire.

[fredintoon]

battery?

Hi Corey,
hit the button and the starter whines but the engine don't turn over? But only sometimes? Happened to my XS11SG after it was down with charging problems for a while before it got fixed. After an "Oh f**k it what now?" moment it turned out that the battery was low. Overnight recharge and Vroom! As a Q&D test, try booster cables from your car battery. If it starts good when boosted you got battery trouble which is a better thing to have than needing an engine teardown to get at the starter clutch.

[corey]

Thanks for all the comments.

I decided last night to try the heater idea, but I was blessed with a warm-ish day today... and she started without heat!

As for the charging system, it did start better with the car hooked up (more starting amps, right?). After she started and ran for a bit without the cables, she was good to go.

Now its time for another forum search. You see, while she was down I adjusted the floats due to the gas in my oil. Now that it started, though, she doesn't run quite right. I think the float adjustment skewed my air/fuel mixture. Will adjusting th pilot screw affect my air/fuel mixture under load (on the road)? or does that just affect the mixture ad idle? To my understanding it is the latter, but I have been confused before! :S

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Corey,

The pilot jet screws(idle adjusting screws on the front top of carbs) will affect the low speed performance of the engine, not jus the idle. And so if you are having trouble getting off the line and having to use more throttle, then you may have leaned them out a bit like you said when you raised your floats. So...turning the screws out, try 1/2 turns each and then see how it behaves, if not as good, then another 1/2 turn.
T.C.

[planedick]

Gotta synch 'em

Anytime you take of the carbs, adjust anything, or anything else with them carbs, it is necessary to synch 'em. You will be amazed at how much better it will run.... I spent the $50 for a good mercury type synch tool and it was the best investment I ever made. Nothing like a smooth running bike that idles evenly at rediculus speeds like 500 rpm.

[corey]

I was telling myself as I fell asleep last night that I need a mercurcy gauge. Funny how these bikes take over every waking minute of your life, no?

Where is the best place to get one, a mercury gauge that is? Where did you get yours, planedick?

[planedick]

I can't remember

I'm thinking it was cycle-recycle I got my synch tool. Just did a search and found that Motion Pro has a new model without mercury, but it's more expensive, $99

[corey]

Definitely on the wish list. For now, I'll just stick to jumping around with one bouncy vacuum gauge

[HobbyMan]

Gas in your oil is more common of a leaking float pin. It would probably be best to set them back to the stock level and clean your float pins and seats.

[corey]

Copy that, HobbyMan. Just finished that the day before yesterday. Runs good now, after a synch (as planedick mentioned)!

thanks!