Can't remove oil filter

[brucealmighty]

I'm pretty good at extracting broken, stripped, and rounded off hardware, but this has me stumped. The oil filter bolt head was badly rounded off, so I fell for one of those infomercials and bought a Gator Grip, supposed to remove rounded off things. Didn't work. Tried drilling it out. Broke off the screw extractor. Now I'm stumped. I don't think I can drill out the screw extractor because it's probably made of harder steel than any drill bits I have. What's next? A trip to an auto machine shop?

[mason79]

had the same prob, make sure when you install the new one to not torque it down, it won't leak

file the edges to accept a smaller socket and hadle it with kid gloves good luck

btw return the gator grip, i did....didn't work on my filter bolt either.

[Kevin W]

vice grips?

[brucealmighty]

Originally posted by Kevin W
vice grips?

Tried vice grips, but the bolt head doesn't protude far enough down to allow a good grasp on it.

[Bigfoot]

I had to buy a set of these to get mine of. P.O. had totally stripped the head of the bolt. It still wasn't easy but it worked.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...+Taps+%26+Dies

[Ken Talbot]

Re: Can't remove oil filter

Originally posted by brucealmighty
I don't think I can drill out the screw extractor because it's probably made of harder steel than any drill bits I have. What's next?

If you're in to it, a diamond burr in a dremel tool will grind away the broken extractor. If you can get it out, you might be able to drill a much bigger hole to use a much bigger extractor.

OTOH, I've had luck with taking the bike to a welding shop and having them weld a nut on over the rounded-off part. Make it a large nut, say 17mm or 19mm so it won't get rounded off. I've modified a couple of my oil filter nuts this way.

[saddle up]

Don't know about you guys, but I have removed many a bolt with a chisel and a 2-4-6 pound beater. Just make sure you are going the right way...righty tighty, lefty loosey. lol

[79XS11F]

I bet this is why one of the filter bolts on my various engines has a large nut welded to it. Iwonder if it was wielded in place to get that bolt out and then left there instead of replacing the unit
Rob

[Crazcnuk]

Friend of mine has had an XS750 since 1978, and he claims he wrecks that bolt every time he does an oil change.


I told him he has to change the oil more often than every 5 years!

[brucealmighty]

Well, I guess I'm off to the hardware store to look for a diamond tipped drill bit and another screw extractor. Then to order a replacement bolt, which will run around $25.00 plus shipping. All this to change a lousy $5.00 oil filter!
Anyone know of an adapter to change it to a spin off filter arrangement? I think I read about that somewhere.

[trbig]

Partsnmore.com has the bolts for $9, but you'll have to get a min order of $35 with 3 bucks shipping. I'm sure there's something else on there you could find.


Tod

[Dads11special]

Saw an oil filter bolt on ebay last night. Sorry I don't have the item number. Search yamaha xs1100

[cdpruden]

Originally posted by trbig
Partsnmore.com has the bolts for $9, but you'll have to get a min order of $35 with 3 bucks shipping. I'm sure there's something else on there you could find.


Tod

Unfortunately, Partsnmore says it's out of stock if you try to add it to the cart... I've been wanting a new one just because mine is a little chewed, and has started to leak even with a new o-ring (don't understand that one, but that's a different thread)

'OIL FILTER BOLT 15-3024 ' is Out of Stock.

[manshack_one]

Look in the tech tips section. I believe it's TopCat's little invention but there is a Spin On Oil Filter Adapter available. Luckily I finally figured out I needed a 19mm socket to get mine off so I haven't stripped it yet!


***EDIT****

Found it.

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...&threadid=5095

[Gyrogearloose]

Howdy there. Well, I've been in that situation before. I usually resort to (if there's anything left that protudes) a small pipe wrench. Notice the word "small". The sides are flat enough that you may be able to hold it very flat against the protuding part and get a grip. Don't forget to use the old "monkey p-ss" for rusted and siezed bolts. (Can be WD40 or your choice). Squirt that liberally and tap the bolt straight on the break the seal. I would be very careful with heat if you decide to use that method (it can made the aluminum case brittle). Yes, you may need to take it to a machine shop; they have "tricks" that may be useable in your case. I'm not a fan of extractors, as they're just another "hold" in leu of the bolt head. Instead I would center punch (ON CENTER) the bolt and start with a small drill bit, then select larger and larger bits until you're right at the threads of the hole. Usually you can pick the remaining slivers of the bolt out, and use a starting tap the straighten any boogered threads. Good luck!