Middle gear warning !

[egsols]

You know how to use the box end of a wrench as extra leverage?

Yup, I've gotten in the habit of using box ends on allen keys, however, its not really for the extra leaverage its mainly to keep my knuckles blood free. I have found that because the keys are short, the force I need to break a bolt free can cause my hands to slip. It is easier to use a box end on the key and pull with less force to acheive the same results without risking my hand slipping off and bashing my knuckles.

It also allows me to tap on the key with a small hammer (thus having an impact effect), again, without hurting myself.

I have found Mr. Pain to be one of my best teachers.

[malber]

Originally posted by jmyers40


About that dipstick, both of mine are gone from the two XS11s I have. Anyone have a detailed photo of one of these? Or possibly a measurement on the fill ines from the bottom of the stick???

Prom posted the link above where you can get a new one. But since it probably hasn't been checked in awhile, you might as well drain it and put in the amount recommended by clymer.

[jmyers40]

DITTO on the PB Blaster. I prefer it, just most people don't seem to know about it.

Originally posted by xsilerating


Instead of penetrating oil or WD-40, I suggest that you use PB Blaster. Worked great for me when I had trouble removing a number of bolts (oil filter; oil drain plug; etc.) and none of the 'other' familiar lubricants did a d@mn thing.

Worked every time.

[jjwaller]

Originally posted by egsols


Yup, I've gotten in the habit of using box ends on allen keys, however, its not really for the extra leaverage its mainly to keep my knuckles blood free. I have found that because the keys are short, the force I need to break a bolt free can cause my hands to slip. It is easier to use a box end on the key and pull with less force to acheive the same results without risking my hand slipping off and bashing my knuckles.

It also allows me to tap on the key with a small hammer (thus having an impact effect), again, without hurting myself.

I have found Mr. Pain to be one of my best teachers.

You might also consider investing in a QUALITY set of Hex sockets for your 3/8 in ratchet. Works much better then Hex keys. Also you can use extensions and longer ratchets when necessary.

[Ivan]

Originally posted by egsols
Got me thinking too. Checked middle level and its okay but could use a change. Tried to check rear but can't get the plug out. Any problems with rear plug? Should I just use some heat and impact on it?

A trick that used to work well on truck differential plugs was to heat the plug until it glowed, trying to keep the case from heating up. Then just walk away until it was cool to the touch. They would spin out easy then, like they were only finger tight. Iron shrinks when it is heated to glowing then cooled.

Not sure it would work well on a bike with an aluminum housing, but it might.

Another trick, when using an allen wrench or other type of internally wrenched bolt, is to squirt a couple drops of valve lapping compound in the hole then put the wrench in and loosen away. the grinding compound gives the wrench extra bite to avoid stripping.

My usual method, though, is just to cuss a lot. Not effective, but satisfying.

[egsols]

Originally posted by jjwaller

You might also consider investing in a QUALITY set of Hex sockets for your 3/8 in ratchet

Got em while back, but they're at home in the tool box, my spare bike is at my office, so I had to use what was on hand.

'Bout the heat thing, I've use a heat gun on the small stuff, it provides just enough heat without melting or burning anything.

[snowdog51]

frozen anything

take good guality bolt weld it to plug turn bolt works every time .
bill

[madmax-im]

Originally posted by malber
The most challenging thing I found about changing the middle drive oil is the placement of the drain hole. It ends up draining right above the center stand crossbeam. Anyone have any suggestions on how to get it to drain without making a big mess?

You might try taking the centerstand off the bike temporarily.I just drained my middle drive and with no centerstand or exhaust in the way its not messy at all...

[thewright1]

This same thing happened to me last year. Middle gear locked up while I was on the street I SHOULD have been on the freeway that day but some friends called me at the last minute and I was on my way to go see them. Luckily they did because had it locked up on me while I was doing 65 to 70 on the freeway (after work in So Cal), done deal! I ended up getting my middle gear replaced and it rides fine but now the bike leaks oil like crazy (it appears to be coming from the area of that rubber drive boot.

[81xsproject]

Sounds like your new middle drive has a bad seal.

[malber]

You might try taking the centerstand off the bike temporarily.I just drained my middle drive and with no centerstand or exhaust in the way its not messy at all...

I don't own a 'cycle jack, so center stand is the only way to go. But I've since found using a Miti-vac pump to siphon the old oil out is the best way to get it out of the mid and rear drives without making a mess.

Still better than changing the oil on my wife's Xterra where I have to remove a gravel shield to get to the filter.

[CatatonicBug]

The final drive should be super simple to drain on the sidestand. Siphoning won't get all the old oil (and the heavy crud that settles to the bottom), so draining it through the actual drain hole is really the best way to do it. Remember too that when you drain it, you're supposed to leave the drain plug off for 15 minutes to let all the old oil drain out (it's thick stuff!). Siphoning won't get all the stuff stuck to the walls in there either...

You might try a car jack and a few 4X4 chunks of wood to act as jack stands, to replace the bike jack.

[Smash]

Good read this thread...

The fill bolt on the middle drive of my girlfriend's XJ is utterly stripped. No matter of PB Blaster (I actually use something stronger), impact and GOOD hex keys will get the thing loose.

Sounds like I'll be pulling the airbox so I can get my dremel in there, cut a slit the length of the head and hopefully get it off that way.

Not sure the condition of the drain plug, I learned the hard way a long time ago to get the fill plug off FIRST.

[bikerphil]

Try a cold chisel and spin the bolt CCW, a common metric oil pan drain bolt from auto parts should be a suitable replacement.

[Smash]

Thank you Phil, will try that first.