Voltage Regulator?

[skids]

Do you have gas tank anxiety? It needs to come off for the Geezer method. Personally, I test mine quick and dirty, at the auxilliary fuse location for lead positive.

Originally posted by DenzComp
where can I test this without taking the gas tank back off?

[TopCatGr58]

Testing across the battery, not right?

Okay, Geezer and others,

Riddle me this? The battery usually puts out about 12.5 volts. When I have tested the charging system by putting the test leads on the (+) and (-) battery terminals with my voltmeter, and then run the bike, and then rev it to 2500 rpms, the voltage rises to ~14.5 volts! So....I can't believe that I'm not measuring the charging voltage, since the battery doesn't put out that much voltage!!

Are we saying that we need to pick some other (+) power source, like the red lead on the volt reg, and run the test meter's ground to frame? Won't connecting to the (+) battery lead and instead of the (-) of the battery, perhaps just ground elsewhere to frame for a proper reading?

This may end up as another tech tip/FAQ!
T.C.

[skids]

Re: Testing across the battery, not right?

I know that the some VR's will chop the voltage at different levels than others. The bike is capable at its maximum of something like 25 volts AC, 3 phase, depending of the strength of the magnetic field and the rpms. OTOH, A weak battery will pull more amps into it, I believe, allowing less amps to run lights and stuff. Have you ever watched your volt meter on a vehicle after you needed a jump? You see a higher charge rate until the battery reaches its normal charge, but the sensor is probably at the VR and not at the battery. I know, I know, I didn't give any answers here!

Originally posted by TopCatGr58
Okay, Geezer and others,

Riddle me this? The battery usually puts out about 12.5 volts. When I have tested the charging system by putting the test leads on the (+) and (-) battery terminals with my voltmeter, and then run the bike, and then rev it to 2500 rpms, the voltage rises to ~14.5 volts! (snip)

[DenzComp]

Went out and bought ANOTHER BATTERY!!!!


You'll be seeing me on CNN if I still have charging troubles.

I'm gonna freak the hell out.




Bought a better than new reg/rec from Geezer...stator/field coils from Andreas and two new batteries in the past two weeks...

[DenzComp]

Well..I don't think I needed the battery because it's doing the same frickin' thing.

Started out at 12.86 after a fresh charge. When I start it up it drops down to like 12.2 when started and will hover down there and hardly increase with Revs.

Where else can I test the charging system if checking at the battery isn't all ways correct?

[jimboreeno]

This thread is sounding strangly familiar. I am having the same type of issue. New Rec/reg from Geezer, stador is magnetic when running but no change in volt charge during rev. I am about to buy a new battery...you have me scared to do so now. I have a strong aversion to spending money! I think I will lurk until you get some answers!

[DenzComp]

Good news.


After charging the new battery last night I installed it and had the same problem.

Well, Andreas sent me two sets of stators/magnets. I just threw the one on that was all ready in the case and it tested okay.

After I had the same trouble after a new battery and reg/rec I decided to throw the other one on.

Now the charging system is working great.

I was getting a magnetic field from the one I took off too, so I don't understand it...maybe it was working...just barely.

So I guess I didn't even need the new battery.

Does anyone know if Advance Auto tests batteries? I swear the did. I went down and asked and lady told me no so i went ahead and bought a new battery. I think I'm going to call down and ask...if they do test them I'm going to try to get my money back or something because I wouldn't have bought one if it tested out fine.

[jimboreeno]

Congrats on your fix!
I wonder if that is my issue as well. I put the old rec/reg back on and the issue is the same. (so I put the new one back on)
I am not showing much increase at all in the charge when reving the engine. It goes up 2-3 10ths instead of a couple of volts.
Plus my stator plug is melted. The PO had fire and thus the electirical has been a real challenge.

[DenzComp]

To be honest I was about to give up on the old girl. I'm 20...and in College. I don't have hundreds of dollars to throw at this bike.

I did to a point...after fixing the bike after the wreck and these electrical woes I have close to 500 in it.

[DenzComp]

Jim...when the bike is running is the voltage lower than before you started it?

[DiverRay]

Jim, You NEED to make sure all the connection to the stator are good. I would look at the fried wires, and put in new connectors, and possibly wires, before going farther. It doesn't cost much money, just some time, and it takes one more thing out of the equation. If you have more than one or two Ohms resistance, you WILL NOT charge properly. IF the PO or someone just twisted wires together, you have a problem!!!

[jimboreeno]

Yes the voltage is lower when running

[jimboreeno]

Hey DiverRay,
Of course you are right. I need to pull the plugs, check the wires, and replace. I will do that next.

[Wbowen]

I guess eletricial issues come in three's, My issue sound identical to Jim and Denz's issues. I guess I will test the voltage at the Rec/Reg first. I was testing at the battery and got the same results Denz was getting before Geezer chimed in about testing the battery across the terminals. I thing I will need a new Rec/Reg anyways because my Tach and headlight are out as well. I will let yall know the results as soon as it stops raining.

[DiverRay]

Wes,
Check the 6 connector gang BEHIND the fuse block. If it has burned, you may not be getting any voltage to the regulator. The plastic should be white, and if it's dark brown, it's probably the problem.