Don't forget the space between the coil and the cam lobe is .7mm, IIRC. The spacing is CRITICAL for proper timing and firing.
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Did some repairs...Down to 4 problems... I think
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No I've made no attempt to fix, I'll need to get a set of MM feller gauges of at least study the metric conversion table, AGAIN!!
This is kind of strange,
I went for a little ride, gas station and back
(needed a smoke, pack empty),
I think I need to call an EXORSIST!!!!!!!
Most of the time it's running on all 4, only sometimes it don't
Yes, I've repaired the P/U wires, TWICE now,
but I can't believe its them things again,
When it runs on all four, HOLD ON
BUT IF I ease back on the throttle, it wants to come back,
While riding and engine acting up...
I have pulled #1 sparck plug boot, diff
put it back and pulled #2 no diff,
can't find the throttle lock so I haven't tried the other side, but I'd be willing to bet #3 wouldn't make a diff and #4 would
But I just have to say this bike SCOOTS, when running RIGHT!!!!!1980 XS11 Special aka The Monster
"My life used to be a Soap Opera, until I realized something, I own the network."
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Okay,
Swap plug wires/caps from 2-3 so that you can get a grip on the #3 wire which will then be on the #2 plug, and IF it doesn't make a difference when it's acting up, then you know it's either the PU coils/wires to the TCI, OR it could be the actual high tension coil?
But IF it DOES make a difference, then you've narrowed it down to possibly the plug cap? You can do the same swap with #1-4 as well!
What you said about easing back into the throttle and it happens still sounds like the PU coils, because they are flexing under different throttle/vacuum loads on the engine as the advance plate rotates.
Another test is to remove the vac. adv. line, and test ride both under load and steady rpm. IF it doesn't act up then it shows that the wires aren't loosing connection since the timing plate isn't rotating with the vacuum ADV. OFF! As Randy stated, the cent. adv. turns the reluctor, not the timing plate, the PU coils flex when the timing plate rotates!
Some times the main ignition coils can go bad when they get warm, wires expand and break contact!?!? But IF the bike runs strong with full throttle but not when easing into it, then the main coil isn't faulty, cause it would break down under any load once warmed up!
T.C.T. C. Gresham
81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
History shows again and again,
How nature points out the folly of men!
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Ya know, I really didn't think about swapping the wires, will try that tomro,
Even stranger is this thing seems to run BETTER after it warms up, not WORSE as I would expect for a coil1980 XS11 Special aka The Monster
"My life used to be a Soap Opera, until I realized something, I own the network."
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Just had a thought.... went out and started it up.
WOW that halogen headlight it a lot flipping brighter,
anyways I thought )or rather hoped) I might see sparks,
NOPE, no sparks,
will try the other stuff in the morning.
CAN'T TELL YOU ALL ENUF' TIMES,
THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1980 XS11 Special aka The Monster
"My life used to be a Soap Opera, until I realized something, I own the network."
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tommorow came and went, it's now yesterday.
TOO MUCH sitting in front of this darn computer, I figured out I can now watch video, NEW HIGH SPEED CONNECTION
Almost as fast as the MONSTER.
Still have to try swapping wires... etc.
Will let ya'll know...................1980 XS11 Special aka The Monster
"My life used to be a Soap Opera, until I realized something, I own the network."
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OK...I am lost
Just got back approx 40 mile ride
switched #1 & #4, #2  plug wires,
started up....sounds OK, 1000rpm idle, sounds ok
take off sounds OK,
1/4 mile to 1st stop sign, turn left
get a little speed, take off #1 diff, #2 no diff
start pinching the vacuum, (for the advance)
ease the throttle back, no diff
snap throttle (lightly) a couple of times, heard something
let go of advance, wait its doing something....
cough cough cough sputter pop pop (something like that)
OH SH@@T! somebody light the fire, HANG ON mode just kicked in!
1-1/2 - 2 miles to next stop sign, rolling stop
ease the throttle, small sputter then pulls like a pitbull,
IS THIS PICK-UPS OR CARBS
The rest of the 40 mile ride was much the same but when I can pull 80+ .........
OH and I found out the secret to the WICKED hop in front end.......KEEP IT IN PULL!!!!!!Last edited by renegade_xs11g; 07-05-2007, 01:59 PM.1980 XS11 Special aka The Monster
"My life used to be a Soap Opera, until I realized something, I own the network."
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MORE DETAILS.....
I still have no air filters on, wrong size parts for my velocity stacks
YES, Yeah I know about the dangers of running w/o filters
BUT (insert favorite excuse HERE)1980 XS11 Special aka The Monster
"My life used to be a Soap Opera, until I realized something, I own the network."
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Hey Renegade,
Well, now that you ask!
Swapped wires, pulling #1(4) made a difference in how it ran, but pulling #2(3) made no difference! Yet, when it kicks in, it is in afterburner mode and all 4 are hitting!
Like you said, IF coil was going bad, would likely be worse when warmed up!
I had a stuck float once, and my #2 carb was flooding. I essentially had NO low rpm response, but once I cranked the throttle and it sped up enough to clear the flooding, it would hit on all four and run very strong!
Pulling the #2 plug could indicate no spark, but could also indicate that you aren't getting any fuel at the low rpm, and so with no fuel coming thru the pilot circuit, there wouldn't be anything for the spark to lite, so pulling the plug might not affect the way it ran since it wasn't getting any fuel to lite anyways!?!?
Start the bike from COLD, and frequently test the pipes for heat building up, and see IF either 2 or 3 or both are not heating up the same as 1-4 with just the idle. Pull the plug wire and put a spare plug into it and lay against the engine to test for fire. IF getting fire, but pipes cold, then most likely still clogged pilot circuit. But if cold pipes and no spark, then possibly ignition.
But it could be elsewhere besides the PU coils and Igntion coils? IF all of the ohmeter testing of the coils and wires check out, then you might look at the TCI, check the solder joints for the plugs, they can go bad giving intermittent symptoms, and you can resweat the joints...see Randy's Web site! Keep at it!
T.C.T. C. Gresham
81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
History shows again and again,
How nature points out the folly of men!
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This is new ... Maybe?
just got back from an almost carbon copy ride, except that before I left I dicsonnected and capped vacuum advance,
just about CARBON COPY of last ride,
It seems that there is no common area
just that between 2 miles and 5 miles out it starts to run great,
after that I can drop the throttle and sometimes it'll pickem up sometimes not, nothing consistant enough to pin down
with no air filters on I stuck a finger down throat of each, got a finger full of gas, so all are getting gas
While I was out I bought a vacuum gauge (single),
hooked it up,can't get a steady reading,
it's time to make a plenum
also just for grins, I hooked it to the advance nipple,
steady reading of 8-10 psi, this is on carb #2 body, NOT boot
it looks like it got a vacuum retarder instead of advance, may just be my brain working backward like it does from time to time1980 XS11 Special aka The Monster
"My life used to be a Soap Opera, until I realized something, I own the network."
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Re: This is new ... Maybe?
Originally posted by renegade_xs11g
It seems that there is no common area
just that between 2 miles and 5 miles out it starts to run great,
after that I can drop the throttle and sometimes it'll pickem up sometimes not, nothing consistant enough to pin down
with no air filters on I stuck a finger down throat of each, got a finger full of gas, so all are getting gas
it looks like it got a vacuum retarder instead of advance, may just be my brain working backward like it does from time to time
You got fuel because you are running on the mains, but the pilot circuit may still not be working properly? Try pulling the #2 plug wire when it's running strong, you'll probably notice a difference in performance! This would indicate that you ARE getting fire and fuel at the higher rpms, but like you said, when you back off the throttle, it won't respond well until you get it wound up again! This indicates you still have problems/cloggs in your pilot circuit!
You're right, the vacuum advance is ALSO a retard unit! Under low rpm/loads there is a strong amount of vacuum which advances the timing a lot, taking advantage of the leaner fuel when just maintaining speed without much load! But when you crank the throttle the butterflies open, the vacuum will actually decrease to the advance unit which allows it to rotate to the not so advanced timing position which is actually the better power timing position for handling heavy loads! It's written up in the bike articles/reviews!
T.C.T. C. Gresham
81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
History shows again and again,
How nature points out the folly of men!
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MORE updates
was gonna head to the hardware store, (plenum parts),
wife left b4 I could, sooooo......
dug in and grabbed orange/grey wires for coils, started bike pulled grey wire, no diff, plugged it back in, no diff,
pulled orange wire stalled, OK now we're on to sumtin'
change wires @ plugs, 1&4 are now on 2&3,
darn it 2&3 too short to reach 1&4, oh well, change orange wire to grey greay to orange, basically switching coils, RIGHT?
starts and runs on 2&3, the only thing left at the moment is testing the coils,
MAYBE I'M OVERLOOKING SOMETHING,
will be back in a moment with coil test results, might be a minute I'll have to find the coil tech tip
O I forgot, I used a spare plug sparking on all for just looks a little weak on #2 & #3Last edited by renegade_xs11g; 07-05-2007, 05:44 PM.1980 XS11 Special aka The Monster
"My life used to be a Soap Opera, until I realized something, I own the network."
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Okay, yes you are possibly narrowing it down!
Now, take your voltmeter, and check the RED/WHITE wires for each coil for ~9 - 12 volts, 9 when bike is actually running, and 12 when key is on, but not started yet since starting circuit bypasses ballast resistor sending 12 to coils for stronger starting. IF you're seeing much less than 9 volts or different for 2-3 vs. 1-4, then possible problem with power feed to coils. But if same voltages, then you probably have a bad or dying coil?
The readings without the caps on should be about 15k ohms between the plug leads, and ~1.5 ohms for the primary windings.
T.C.T. C. Gresham
81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
History shows again and again,
How nature points out the folly of men!
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PGGG.... kinda like a ball valve (of sorts), so I can quite litterally limit the amount of flow in the line, is this correct??????
OHM meter'd coils,
primary, meter set @200 OHM,
orange lead, 2.3 - 2.4 leveled off @ 2.2
grey lead leveled off @ 2.1
plug lead to plug lead, meter set @ 2000k ohm
coil w/ orange primary, 016
coil w/ grey primary 1 on left side of meter, just the same as not connected
THIS MEANS I HAVE A BAD COIL, RIGHT??????
or should I have a go @ changing wires fix?????????1980 XS11 Special aka The Monster
"My life used to be a Soap Opera, until I realized something, I own the network."
My Photo Bucket
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