screech

[trbig]

That spring around that pin is what keeps the pin from coming out. When you let off your brakes, the pads only move back out ever so slightly. Sometimes they will actually keep touching lightly. If you're down to the metal, it's going to be rubbing on your disc and you will probably see a line or something on it where it's been rubbing it.

Did you check the front side of the pads and see if they were in that slot I was telling you about? Here's what I meant..





You should be able to just look from the back side and see if there's brake pad left. These pads do have a small wear indicator on them to tell you when they are getting low on pad... to warn you BEFORE the pad is completely gone. That may be what's squeeling.

Tod

[trbig]

Just thinking... and BlueJeep typed faster... BUT...if that spring was rubbing the disc, it was installed wrong. it should be over on the side like this...

[Axel]

Thank you guys

I have new pads all around ordered . I am considering changing them myself . The mechanic suggested a caliper kit for the left front but doesnt know if they're available here . Something tells me a little honing will go a long way , But what do I know .
I'm trying to get a center stand though my used parts friend

WOW .Just read your post Tod . I see pad from this angle ,about 1/4 inch - looks like plenty . MY spring is not like yours and I'm going to check the slot . Nice Pictures . Thanks

[trbig]

It's really simple to change pads. You'll need a "C" clamp to compress the caliper piston back in because the new pads will be thicker. In the top picture, right above the arrrow, is a 14mm bolt. Just back that out all the way and the caliper comes off. There's a washer/spacer that will come off that you can see right above the notch that the tabs of the pads fit in. The only other thing is a collar running inside the caliper that the bolt goes through may fall out too. But it's all really simple to go back together. Put the rod through the back side of the pads, put thebolt, collar, and washer in place as you get the bolt started. After it just gets started on the threads, push the pads up (They will be hanging there by that rod) and push the whole assembly forward as you guide the tabs of the pads into that slot. Hold it there while you tighten the bolt back up... Done. Hit the brake pedal a few times to pump it back up against the rotor and go.

The front ones are pretty simple also. If your caliper piston is sticking or rusty (Like mine is from riding in the winter with salty roads) you can clean it up with some fine sandpaper or emory cloth. You won't need a caliper kit unless they are leaking.

Tod

[Axel]

not 90*

The caliper seems cockeyed as to the disc . The pads are wearing on an angle . I notice this when veiwed from the back .

[skids]

When you spead the pads apart, be careful that the fluid doesn't overfill the mastercylinder. Brake fluid will eat your tank's paint job for lunch so remove the tank!

Originally posted by trbig
It's really simple to change pads. You'll need a "C" clamp to compress the caliper piston back in

[Ken Talbot]

Re: not 90*

Originally posted by Axel
The pads are wearing on an angle . I notice this when veiwed from the back .

Actually, the front pads on a Special, like on the XJ, are made that way. As bizarre as it sounds and looks, the pads were designed with a thick side and a thin side. There is a groove across the pad face that is a guide to wear. When the groove is gone, it is time to replace the pads.

Prom was spouting something the other day about those pointy headed Japanese engineers knowing what they were going when they designed the XS11. IIRC, it had something to do with position of cam lobes when checking the cam-shim clearance. I guess this is another one of those areas where they knew what they were doing, but I, with my flat-topped head, just can't see the 'point' of it. Eh, Prom?

[Axel]

popular problems

Hey , just picked up the dipstik to check the drives . I buckled and took it back to the shop to replace all pads . I have limited use of a garage and if something goes wrong - then I'm stuck . I did get a bike jack though so I can get it up off the ground . Managed to fix the exhaust temporarily while waiting on clamps to come in . It was still screeching at last count but we'll see where we stand after today . There's a local show&swap on Sunday and I want to be there without a screech !

[BLUEJEEPLAB]

Keep at it, it's worth the effort.

[Axel]

diary of a madman

Hey . The shop ordered the wrong pads . They took the rear caliper off and forgot to phone me after I said I had to have it fixed or not this weekend . I walked up at 6:00 and they were just locking the place up . He apolically put the caliper back on and I got to leave as a thunderstorm hit . I only live a mile from the shop but i had to wait for a train so I got so past soaked I got used to it . I narrowly missed a mishap as a semi made a wide left turn and the cars in front of me decided to back up to give him room . I got a new rain suit that afternoon but left it at home .
The brakes(or whatever) still made the sound on the way home .
Later I put on the rain suit and went for a nice ride into the sunset . I dont think it made the screech this time .
What is it they say -fooled twice shame on me ?

[oldyam80sg]

Axel- Dont go to a mechanic!I know you said something about getting stuck, but i dont think by reading your thread that i would trust him too much.He ordered the wrong pads.Come on!The rear brakes are very simple and not alot can really go wrong back there.You said that you almost got into an accident twice,really you should use the front brakes alot more than the rear.I'm not saying the rear brakes are important, but if you use the rear for fast stopping, chances are the bike will start to skid.This is very true in the rain.Look in the manual or read about brakes on this fine website!

[Geezer]

Look at the sides of the rear tire for rub marks.

A wide rear tire may only rub at low speed and then will thin out a little with centrifugal force at higher rotational speeds.

Geezer

[Axel]

manic mechanic

No rub marks that I can find .

My right front brake from the lever hardly works from fork oil leakage and possible bleeding required .
My left front brake is activated from the rear pedal and may be working but the guy tried to bleed them and they ended up worse.
I just jam everything on and i seem to stop . Still screeching but it may be a low pad thing on the rear sintered pad . Funny thing is it does it when i'm not braking . If I jam on the rear brake it seems to stop .

[mro]

originally posted by Axel
I just jam everything on and i seem to stop

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mro

[oldyam80sg]

MRO-very interesting article and good point.Thats what i was getting at.In the 22 years that i have owned my SG, i think i have never needed to replace my rear pads.I use the front 99% of the time.