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at the end of my rope

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  • at the end of my rope

    Help 1979 XS1100,
    This bike is becoming too much. Every time I fix one thing something else pops up. I already have scavenged parts off of my XS750 to repair the left and right handle bar controls. I repaired numerous shorts to the electrical system. Cleaned many electrical connections. I used electrolysis to get the rust out of the gas tank. Replaced fuel lines and added manual shut offs. Fixed the oil leak from the neutral switch and fixed a hole in the gas tank. I plugged the opening in the cam chain tensioner. A used regulator is on the way to replace the dead one. Removed the reserve lighting unit and the headlight relay both were not working. Changed the oil and the middle and rear gear oils (they looked like dark green oatmeal) (Thanks for the help randy )

    And the bike still looks like a turd on wheels.

    Now to the problems that I still have:
    Plugs were black and wet looking. I changed the plugs. Bike fired right up and I took it for a short run (1/2 mile) It is a powerful bike!!! It was backfiring on deceleration.

    New plugs are becoming black and look wet. Also bike will not start up on all cylinders now. After full choke and about 20 minutes sometimes I will have all cylinders and sometimes not. The spark wires are hard and cracking and I guess will need to be replaced. I am guessing that the carbs will need a cleaning and adjustment. Are the black wet plugs a sign of too rich a mixture?

    The SWMBO is not very happy that I am spending so much time on the bike and too much $$$$. She wants me to sell it already. I need to stay CBMMA as much as possible.

    So I am asking what is the quick cheap way to clean the carbs and replace the spark plug wires?
    Trying not to offend since Aug 28, 2010

    Disclaimer: I am an idiot. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain.
    Owner of:
    1979 XS1100F (The Pig)
    140 mains
    45 pilot jets
    Floats at 24mm
    Running Rich

    "Arrogant, delusional tyrants can't be stopped by earnest words and furrowed brows. Action, strong bold action coming from a position of strength and determination, is the only effective deterrent." -Mitt Romney

  • #2
    Click this for wire repair
    http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?threadid=137

    Cleaning carbs is more labor than money
    one or two cans cleaner about 5/6 bucks


    mro

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: at the end of my rope

      Originally posted by rman
      Help 1979 XS1100,
      This bike is becoming too much. Every time I fix one thing something else pops up....The spark wires are hard and cracking and I guess will need to be replaced....
      So I am asking what is the quick cheap way to clean the carbs and replace the spark plug wires?
      Well the choice is an old bike that you can service yourself or a new bike that is so complicated that you have to pay someone to service it.

      Are you talking about the spark plug bends? Those are easy to replace; just pop off the old ones and plug the new ones in. If you are talking about the wire that goes to the coil that's a bit more complicated. I believe they're hardwired to the coils. As you probably already know, there are several tips on cleaning carbs in the maintenance section. I haven't stripped and cleaned mine yet, but I did run seafoam through the fuel system over the winter and have been getting much better performance. Others can probably give you better assistance with the misfiring cylinders.
      1981 XS1100SH

      Comment


      • #4
        cheap carb cleaning HERE I have not tried this yet, but will be using this method on the 79F carbs when the bike reaches that stage of re-assembly. I'll probably follow up the vinegar with some Sea Foam Deep Creep.

        as to replacing the spark plug wires, check HERE

        Comment


        • #5
          The BS34 carbs are relatively simple.
          If you've never had a set apart, recommend print or copy the parts break down and place on bench with carbs.

          Remove all the float bowls, then floats, float needle and seat.
          Keep all parts for each carb in its float bowl.

          At this point finish cleaning each carb individually, take one down the rest of the way and clean all passages etc.. then reassemble.
          If you forget where a part goes take apart the next carb to that point to find out.

          _______
          Hardest part may be getting a screw out or removing the float bowl pin. Too much force removing either can damage a screw or break off a float post. Check in the maintenance/repair section for more precise info on carbs, then if you have specific question post it.


          mro

          Comment


          • #6
            Ray,

            I have a spare set of coils / soft wires that you can have until you can replace them. Also, the cheapest and best way to clean your carbs is to bring them over here!

            let me know if you want the coils. I'll be home until about noon tomorrow, then I'm off to XSEast. After that, i won't be available until Sat, June 2.

            Comment


            • #7
              XSessivly helpful

              Randy, thanks for the offer. Unfortunately SWMBO has other plans for me right now, I promised to get the pool open this week and have a wedding to attend this weekend. I will try to order new plug ends and wires from mikexs this week. Hopefully I can do the mod to the coils next week and see how things stand from there. Maybe we can get together June 2, I will try to clear that weekend with SWMBO. (She runs the social calendar) and I will keep the honey dew list to a minimum.

              What should I get for the carb cleaning? Can I use form a gasket on the float bowl? Cheaper is always better LOL, I have seen kits for around $20 on oldbikebarn, will I need these or can I probably get away with less?

              Description:
              Carb Rebuild Kit. Includes: Float bowl Gasket, O-Rings, Float Needle, Seat Assy, Main Jets, Slow Jet, Jet Needle, Mixture screw & Spring

              I am feeling more encouraged already, thanks all for the support group.
              Trying not to offend since Aug 28, 2010

              Disclaimer: I am an idiot. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain.
              Owner of:
              1979 XS1100F (The Pig)
              140 mains
              45 pilot jets
              Floats at 24mm
              Running Rich

              "Arrogant, delusional tyrants can't be stopped by earnest words and furrowed brows. Action, strong bold action coming from a position of strength and determination, is the only effective deterrent." -Mitt Romney

              Comment


              • #8
                You should only need a new needle/seat assembly, and CLEAN everything else. Two cans of GOOD carb cleaner, Berryman's B12 or Seafoam spray, should do it.
                Follow mro's plan, take your time on the first one, and you should be done before you know it. If you can get help from Randy, great!! Two people usually help, even if the teacher is watching more than working. Don't forget you WILL need to sync. the carbs once your done.
                Ray Matteis
                KE6NHG
                XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
                XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

                Comment


                • #9
                  form a gasket on the float bowl?

                  not a good idea


                  mro

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Ray,

                    Don't buy anything yet. let's inspect first, then replace only if necessary.

                    You'll need a spray can of carb cleaner. I have all of the tools we'll need including the syncronizer. Oh, and the impact driver!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      strange ideas pop into mind with the thought of an impact driver on aluminum carbs
                      United States Merchant Marine Academy, Kings Point, NY
                      If I can do it at 18 yrs old, anyone can
                      "You know something, You can't polish a turd"
                      "What are you rebelling against", "Well, what do you got?"
                      Acta Non Verba

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Oh,

                        So you've never tried to remove phillips screws that some P.O. bunged-up beyond recognition?

                        A screwdriver just won't cut it.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          vice grips
                          United States Merchant Marine Academy, Kings Point, NY
                          If I can do it at 18 yrs old, anyone can
                          "You know something, You can't polish a turd"
                          "What are you rebelling against", "Well, what do you got?"
                          Acta Non Verba

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Like the loc-tited ones that attach the carbs to the rack, from the factory? (soon to be buggered up with the best screwdrivers)

                            Originally posted by randy
                            Oh,

                            So you've never tried to remove phillips screws that some P.O. bunged-up beyond recognition?

                            A screwdriver just won't cut it.
                            Skids (Sid Hansen)

                            Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              impact driver

                              I've found an impact driver invaluable for these screws. Seems to work best just using the driver with HAND PRESSURE ONLY.

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