The worst possible problem

[Dad2g5]

Sounds stupid but I had the same problem. Intermittent connection at fuse panel. I rewired it with regular automotive blade fuses. problem solved.

[mro]

bad info

originally posted by randy
On my 79, the stop switch keeps the engine from cranking

Would someone please pass the ketchup while I eat my words

Went and checked the G, engine stop switch to off either way and it would not crank
I would a swore last year that when I had inadvertently hit the switch that it still cranked but not start

Sure glad no bets on that one.


mro

[rockjok]

More bad info (?)

"all the XS models have the tip-over switch, however this is not your problem if the bike won't crank - bad tip-over will only cause a no fire condition."

I thought only the newer XSs had tipover switches. The half dozen Specials I've had didn't have them tho' they were 79s and 80s.

Rob

[Brian_D]

Originally posted by rockjok
More bad info (?)

"all the XS models have the tip-over switch, however this is not your problem if the bike won't crank - bad tip-over will only cause a no fire condition."

I thought only the newer XSs had tipover switches. The half dozen Specials I've had didn't have them tho' they were 79s and 80s.

Rob

I hope it is not bad info, but I'd be more than willing to share mro's ketchup - plus some tobassco to cover the BAD taste.

I based this comment on the wiring for my 79F and 81LH; both TCI units (2H7 and 4R0) have the input for the tipover and was installed on both bikes. In addition, the Yamaha web site lists the tipover for the 78-81.

[rockjok]

OOPS!!

I'll admit my ignorance and error in where the tipover switch was located and what models had them. I based my comments on several misadventures that ended up with my bikes on their sides still running.

Today I'm trying to move a complete electrical harness and electrical system from a 79 to an 80 frame. In the process I found an unidentified and unplugged gizmo located under the tank between the frame rails. After a search here I found a pic in a post that shows the switch.

Think I'll stick with Franks Hot Sauce rather than Tobasco......

Rob

[desert1]

Just had it

Just had that same problem Pat, all the electrics worked except no
crank from the starter........in my case what I had done while installing my engine in the bike was to pull the( red wire/ white tracer) out of the fuse slightly enough to break the circuit.....if I were you I would check out every conection on the bike involving this wire any break in it will cause your condition, use a multimeter and check for continuity.....good hunting.
Bruce

[Pat Kelly]

It will be a while before I can do anything with the bike(s) (they're now both doing the same thing).
May 13th (my birthday) was my last day off for the next 25 days. Yep, 25 days straight. At the end of those 25 days I lose my job. My department (Security) at the hospital is being outsourced.
On the bright side I already have several good prospects lined-up.

[UncleSpot]

Pat,
let me know if I can help

if you can get one of your bikes here to my shop (4 miles from ya) I'll troubleshoot your electrical; you've helped me a LOT - time to repay the favor(s)

'sorry to hear about your job - I hear the word "out-sourcing" WAY TOO MUCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Pat Kelly]

The weird thing is (if you noticed in an earlier reply) that both bikes are now doing the same thing.
The only thing I did to the E that caused it to not fire-up is temporarily swap the OFF-RUN-OFF (O-R-O) switches.
If I get the chance I'm going to by-pass the O-R-O switch and see if that changes anything.
When the LG is running it's running sweet after the bigbore kit. Only 45 miles on it so I know it'll only get better. It has the K&N in the airbox, 1196 kit, 4 into 1, and put 125 main jets in. If I can ever get 200 miles on it for the 2nd oil change (1st was after 20 hard miles) I'll install the oil cooler.
I have 23 straight days of work left at this job unless I get a transfer to another department. I applied with our supply dept. sorting supplies and in pre-op, prepping people for surgery. Also applied with security at another hospital.
The incomming company invited us to apply with them. Less pay, no insurance, loss of seniority, loss of vacation time, and the clincher is detex (baby-sitter for people that are supposed to do regular rounds). If they offer me a job I'll clarify the above shortcommings and (not so) politely refuse.

[UncleSpot]

Pat,
what was the LAST thing you did BEFORE the E didn't run right?
(rhetorical question actually) ...you ALREADY answered that:
you swapped out the OFF-RUN-OFF (O-R-O) switches.

just "reverse" what you did and CHECK how it's wired.

I have an "extra" if you want to try it.

Call me: 578-2990 or 606-6467

XSive regards,
Ron (Uncle Spot)

[Pat Kelly]

Bypassed the O-R-O switch on the E and it is working fine at the moment. I just moved one of the red/white wires going to the switch over to the other terminal and put both wires there. The switch fell apart as I was doing this. It does start with the starter button just fine tho.
I did the same thing to the LG. It wouldn't start with the button but it did when jumping the solenoid, once. I tried it a 2nd time and it is still not starting.
Key on = oil, neutral, and insturment lights all come on. Pust starter button = nothing. Jump the 2 large wires on the solenoid and it fires-up...... sometimes it stays running. Most times it runs only as long as the solenoid stays jumpered, remove the screwdriver and the bike dies.
I think I may have a bad solenoid? I see the solenoid is different from the E (square) and the LG (round). Hmmm.... another standard/special, square/round connection? lol
I don't leave the solenoid jumped very long, just a few seconds.
I guess it could also be the starter button but it looks fine.

The saga continues. At least I have one bike running again.

[randy]

pat,

On the LG, sounds like multiple troubles. The button not cranking the starter could be bad connections. Check and clean plugs in the headlight shell. At the solenoid, try grounding the BLUE that should trip the solenoid and confirm that the trouble is between the solenoid and the handlebar.

As for the sometimes-stays-running syndrome, again, bad connections at the coils may be the cause. During carnking the solenoid bypasses the ballast resistor to give the coils a few extrra volts which may be just enough to fire the engine, then when the solenoid releases, the ballast resistor is back in the circuit. Check your conections at the ballast and the coils.

[Pat Kelly]

Hmmm.... I did have to move the ballast resistor when I did the bigbore kit. I didn't remove it, just moved it.

[Yamaniac]

I didn't see you say what condition your battery was in.

[dewibp]

It's a dam epidemic!!!! Now my 80 LG will just quit running while going down the highway. All lights stay on okay but the starter button doesn't work. Seems like when I wiggle the wires up under the tank (from front end) then it will start and run anywhere from 5 feet to 5 miles. I am reaching in further than the coils though so what is back in the middle of the tank that could have a loose connection or bad connection? I all ready went through all the connections under the tank and die electric greased them.