One disc as opposed to two....?

[mason79]

my brakes just scrubs off xsive speed, panic stops; i try to avoid, that really means your not paying close enuff attention,and hafta panic stop, no downshifting just clutch lever in and slam on the umbrellas...

normal stops involve my downshifting help with the braking and being in the right gear should the decel turn into a acel.

which one are you?

1 disc wonders and panic stops would make for a great thread...

[markjs]

Three last points and I am done with this BS!

A. The issue is moot, because I am now riding a newly aquired 1983 Kawasaki KZ750H4 "LTD" that, running wise, is in like new condition, right down to all three calipers and disks in working order. The XS is down for repair. I am not sure if I will bother fixing the caliper, or just sell it as its and let the next guy deal with it, but I certainly will make sure he is well aware of all the problems and quirks of the bike.

B. About that argument that if you lock up the brake is isn't stopping....Well I always am very intimately aquainted with my bike's capabilities before I do any risky riding at all. I can personally attest that if both calipers were working it is, BY FAR, easier to lock up the front wheel.

C. I always ride/drive the best car/bike, in the best working order I can acheive, given the circumstances at the time, and I adjust my style to each machine. I am not rich, and I can't afford to keep everything tip top at this time. That is changing slowly, as I am getting more and more clients for my services, and just yesterday I was given an '81 Virago that needs nothing but the bars replaced, and a starter. So, that fact, in addition to the fact that my lil Kaw is in great conditon means I have the luxury of fixing things.

Go ahead and keep lecturing me if you like, but you aren't going to change my mind, so I see no reason why you continue to persist in trying. My whole question was asked and answered to my satisfaction, and it was personal experience that answered it. I merely updated the thread and reported the findings.

Oh and one last thing.....All this "high moral ground" BS thast you keep spouting about how you wouldn't want to drive in this town knowing I am on the roads, well, let me just say I'd bet a dollar to a hole in a doughnut that I could outdrive, or outride you in/on half the machine you have, any day of the week. You have plenty of morons to contend with in your own locale, and if you were here, I would not be a menace on the roads in spite of your narrow minded view of things, and your condescending attitude twords me.

For this thread, I'm out!

[Crazcnuk]

A. Heh have fun.
B. Of course.
C. Amen
D. I think they are arguing with me, more than lecturing you....

Epilogue, See d.

[79XS11F]

Originally posted by malber


My point is that no matter what level of awareness you think you have, you can't change the laws of physics. Ever wonder why there are two rotors on the front of the XS11? That's be cause the designers were smart enough to know that with a wet weight of 600+ lbs. plus whatever weight of a middle aged rider that they were needed to provide enough stopping power. I'm no mechanic so I'll trust the smart Japanese designers and physics over my own powers of perception.

My point about the math is that if the bike operating as designed would stop in 30 ft, it would stop in 40.5 feet with half the front braking ability. The friction point where the front wheel will lock up is the same regardless if you have one rotor functioning or two, so you can't say that you could do anything different to reduce that distance, it's physically (literally) impossible. At 25 mph you travel 10.5 feet in about 0.28 seconds. That means that you'd have to have just that much more reaction time to successfully do an emergency stop without hitting the object. Your average reaction time is the same regardless of what activity you're doing, so you can't alter that either.

If I were driving my cage and my power brakes went out, I would not continue to drive it thinking I could overcome this deficiency.

You can't compare road and / or weather condition riding adjustments to decrepit bike condition riding adjustments? it's two completely different subjects.

Otherwise what your saying is that if / as our bikes become more and more decrepit we should adjust our driving behavior to match the bikes decrepitness instead of fixing the bike? interesting concept.

The people who do safety inspections don't have to be engineers. That's not the roll they play in keeping out roads safe for everyone. They need only know ... from their little book... what equipment the engineers determined was required on the bike.
Rob

[Crazcnuk]

Forget it. You'll never understand.

Even if you keep your old bike in perfect condition, relative to all the new stuff it IS inferior. By your own logic you can't drive an old vehicle. You have to update every time a better one comes out, because lord knows, knowingly driving any vehicle while there are better ones is dangerous and stupid.

I have no idea how you could ever drive two different vehicles. If one stops faster than the other you could never drive the inferior one as that would be reckless.

[Stralya]

We don't need no steenking brakes! We learned to ride at six on clapped out BSA bantams that you couldn't start then you couldn't stop. We used fences to slow down if we thought it necessary. The local brick pit/quarry was our race track. We learned first aid and rider courtesy and found out that being high sided makes time slow down.

By the time we were 20 we could ride any fire breathing, brakeless pile o' crap we could lay our hands on.

We all limp. We all smile when we think of the old days. We bear our scars proudly.

We straddle our magnificent Yammies, open them up and frighten the Devil himself. We can ride. We don't need no steenking brakes

If you want safe, buy a new Goldwing or better still, catch a bus (unless I'm driving).

Isn't the uncertainty principle the best part of owning old steel? .

If you haven't said the bikers prayer, you haven't lived.

The Bikers Prayer.

Oh Jesus, Oh sh!t, Oh Christ, Farrrrrrrkkkkkkkkkkkkkk!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
(repeat until event passes)

Let not get too technical. Ride like they're going to ban it. Ride like the maniac you are. Just remember, there are no shops open on Boot Hill and the night life sucks.

Dan
Philosopher.

[Crazcnuk]

And you call us dangerous? Sheesh.

[snowdog51]

brakes

i want to live in canada in the same town
as crazcnuk your a geat guy.
as ever bill

[79XS11F]

Originally posted by Crazcnuk
Forget it. You'll never understand.

Even if you keep your old bike in perfect condition, relative to all the new stuff it IS inferior. By your own logic you can't drive an old vehicle. You have to update every time a better one comes out, because lord knows, knowingly driving any vehicle while there are better ones is dangerous and stupid.

I have no idea how you could ever drive two different vehicles. If one stops faster than the other you could never drive the inferior one as that would be reckless.

You keep wondering off track. Now your comparing a proper old bike to a new bike. That's not what this debate was about. This debate was about using the bike he "currently" has when it's brakes are 1/2 off line. As to if I can drive other vehicles or not the answer is YES.. I currently have my 96 intrepid, my 79 xs11, my 78 xs11 in the works, my 82 Katana, my 2001, neon work car, any one of 2 DIFFERENT work vans, and from time to time one of 2 - 5 ton delivery trucks at my disposal. The reason I can drive any one of them even if they are different from each other, is because each of them is the same as it was the last time I used it, each time I use it . That's because all these bikes , cars, vans and trucks are fixed when they need fixing. If not maintained when necessary every one of them would be different every time I used depending on if something broke or not since my last use.
In any case I agree to disagree about this issue ...
Rob

[Crazcnuk]

I'm not the one wandering, poetry boy.

"The reason I can drive any one of them even if they are different from each other, is because each of them is the same as it was the last time I used it, each time I use it."

And so was his, so what is your point? It only changed once, when it broke and he had to modify it. This was not an intermittent or variable problem.

Other than that it was EXACTLY the same each time he drove it. So what is your point?

"If not maintained when necessary every one of them would be different every time I used depending on if something broke or not since my last use."

Your adding other factors in. He said nothing about anything else breaking. You can't argue one thing by adding more theoreticals in.

And you keep getting stuck on HALF his brakes, he was not down to half of his brakes, Please READ the posts before ranting.

[DiverRay]

OK, Let's cool down a bit!! The thread was on running ONE brake disk instead of two. My '78 has ONLY ONE disk and caliper on it! That is how the P.O. set it up, and was riding it. It probably still stops OK, just not quite as well as stock. The thing to remember is that the master cyl. is set for TWO calipers, and now you are only using ONE. There will be less volume of fluid needed to move the brakes, so he will only be down about 30%.
79XS11F, Crazcnuk, Please take this offline if you feel you need to keep up the discussion.

[snowdog51]

brakes

if you have stock xs brakes you have poor brakes stop driving till you get a fz or fj master and ss lines.
this is crazy you have brakes with one disc
you can ride .
as ever bill

[malber]

Originally posted by DiverRay
OK, Let's cool down a bit!! The thread was on running ONE brake disk instead of two. My '78 has ONLY ONE disk and caliper on it! That is how the P.O. set it up, and was riding it. It probably still stops OK, just not quite as well as stock. The thing to remember is that the master cyl. is set for TWO calipers, and now you are only using ONE. There will be less volume of fluid needed to move the brakes, so he will only be down about 30%.
79XS11F, Crazcnuk, Please take this offline if you feel you need to keep up the discussion.

Ray, I'm shocked. Don't they teach redundancy in scuba school?

[79XS11F]

Good grief guys .. Lets just say that each friction pad makes 2 square inches of contact with the rotor. That would put 8 sq. inches of friction pad to the rotors when the front brakes are applied. That 8 sq. inches of friction to slow down the spinning rotor and therefore the wheel and the bike and 8 sq. inches of contact for heat dissipation to prevent over heating the fluid.
Now take 1/2 the front brakes off line and you have 4 sq. inches doing the same thing that 8 sq. inches used to do. The same amount of heat will still be created but it is only being dissipated over 4 sq. inches of transfer material. So no mater how you cut it you have reduces your brakes by 50% and also doubled the heat that 50% must manage.
Now .. there's little doubt that this will not likely be an issue when everything is going as planed but the point is .. that everything does not always go as planned and this is the sort of set up that will fail when an emergency situation arises.
In any case I have said all I intend to say about this. Ride them as you see fit ... fit or not.
Rob