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  • #16
    Yep, we got ALL of the little openings and jets in the carbs. My father is very meticulous about this kind of thing. It was running pretty good when we first got it back together. As for those wires, they were black and wouldn't even reach over to the positive side of the battery. And as I said before, I think that might be what fixed the light problem.
    1981 XS1100S (former)
    2006 Suzuki Katana 600 "BLKMGE"

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    • #17
      Update

      Well, got it running again and I have some more specifics on the issue.

      When I have the switch on Low-beam, I have no headlight, the right turn signal is on steady, and the brake light is on. With the High-beam, I have a headlight, no turn signals, and the brake light on.

      And I just installed a new flasher unit, as well as replace to 20 amp fuse for the flashers, still having the problems. Anyone have pointers on where to look first? And if you could please tell me where on the bike anything you talk about is? Thank you.
      1981 XS1100S (former)
      2006 Suzuki Katana 600 "BLKMGE"

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      • #18
        Hey Mage,

        You're not giving us much to go on? With these old machines, poor connections can cause a multitude of electrical gremlins, symptoms like you've described can often be cured by a thorough cleaning of ALL of the electrical junction plugs on the bike, and then applying dielectric grease to keep them from corroding again.

        Also, bad grounds can be problematic. Aside from the ground wire from the battery to the frame....rust and corrosion can build up under there. There are other ground wires....a strap that bolts to the rear of the engine and to the frame below the battery case.

        The rear turn signals depending on what model you have...forgot to check before starting this reply , they use a washer/eyelet type wire connector around the signal stalk shaft that makes contact with the inside edge of the rear fender, lots of rust/corrosion can build up there and prevent proper grounding thereby foiling the turn signals!

        If you have a dig camera, you could post a few photos of those special wires that you connected to the ground wire, then "we" might be able to determine whether they were supposed to be connected, etc.!

        Reviewed your earlier posts, and noted you replaced your left hand control switch assembly, with one that did NOT have the ER flasher switch. Where and what did it come off of? It may not have been as good a match up as you thought, and could have some mismatched wires that are contributing to your dilemna!?
        T.C.
        T. C. Gresham
        81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
        79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
        History shows again and again,
        How nature points out the folly of men!

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        • #19
          I'll check those grounds tomorrow. I don't have use of a digital camera, sorry. And I am sorry about the lack of proper details, this is my first bike after all. And about that turn signal switch, it was listed on eBay as an '81 switch, but now it looks like it's a '79 or '80 switch, but it IS for the XS1100, as it was in the original Yamaha box brand new and was labeled.

          I really hope I can fix this by Monday and FINALLY be able to ride.
          1981 XS1100S (former)
          2006 Suzuki Katana 600 "BLKMGE"

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          • #20
            While checking the bike this morning, and reading up on a wiring chart, I had a thought. Everything that's giving me trouble seems to go through something called a "terminal assembly". From prior electrical experience, I believe this is a main ground somewhere. Problem is, I can't find it. Can someone tell me where it is so I can check it?
            1981 XS1100S (former)
            2006 Suzuki Katana 600 "BLKMGE"

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            • #21
              The terminal assy is nothing more than the spare fused circuit that is located under the starter solenoid, and just to the rear of the fuse panel. There is nothing (stock) attached to the terminal assy. It is for aftermarket add ons. I have my horns (car type) running through that circuit. It is always hot, even with the ign switch turned off.

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