Electrical trouble

[BlkMage]

Recently, I bought an '81 XS1100 with what I was TOLD was transmission trouble. Stripped the engine, checked it out, looks like it was just a stretched clutch cable. However, when I tried to get it running again, I ran into electrical problems. When I turn on the key, ALL of the lights (headlight, brake light, turn signals) turn steady on. Does anyone here have any suggestion on where to start looking?

BTW, the bike didn't have what is listed in the wiring diagram as a Front or Rear Start Switch, so I simply spliced the wires together. Also, I had to replace the Turn Signal Switch box with one from a '79, so I don't expect to have the hazard light function. Oh, and I have some type of '79 Yamaha for parts if I can use them.

[skids]

The running lights (front amber and dim tail) should come on with the key and I think the headlight has a relay that "latches" in the on position once you start cranking the engine. Turn the key off and then back on and the headlight will be off until you crank it again. That is not a malfunction if that is what it is doing. Yeah, if you put in an older turnsignal switch you lose the flashers (that was no big deal to me).

[skids]

PS. I don't really know what the front and rear start switches are.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey there Mage,

Glad to see you got signed on! IF your model description is correct in your profile, you have a SPECIAL, and the front turn signals are NOT like the Standards, they are NOT running lights, and so NONE of the turn signals should come on when you turn the key on, only the dash/gauge lights, and the tail light.

Like Skids said, the headlight should turn on only after you start the bike or it spins enough to generate some recharging voltage, which triggers the relay and turns on the headlight.

IF your headlight is on right when you turn the key on, then the PO has done some fancy wiring, either bypassing the relay, even the RLU. Remove the flasher unit to see if the turn signals go out. If so, then you may not be able to use the old 79 flasher, but can get a 2 prong one from local auto store, thermal for a couple of bucks, or electronic or electro-mechanical IF you will be wanting to convert to LEDs later.

Unless you switched out the handlebar controls, your 4 way flasher switch should still be under the left control, and it uses a DIFFERENT flasher anyways, under the seat on the left side of the frame above the battery! You may have to get a copy of the wiring diagrams (in the link section), and check the connectors, and verify the correct colored wires are connected to what. While you're doing this, clean the contacts of ALL PLUGS, and then put in dielectric grease to protect them from furhter corrosion!

[BlkMage]

TopCat, I think you may have misunderstood. I replaced the switch box on the left handlebar, so there is no longer a switch on it for the hazard lights. When I went to plug it in to the bike, I had to rewire the plug on the bike and seperate out the tan/white wire, heat-shrink it, and leave it unplugged.

And I'm not too worried about the headlight being on when the engine isn't, so I don't really care about any rewiring there. What I'm concerned about is getting the flashers and brake light to come on when I opperate the correct switches and not any other time.

And just in case I do have to buy a new flasher unit, do I need a specific type of one?

[BlkMage]

Update

Ok, I think I was able to clear up the light problem, as I can turn on the key and only the tail light comes on. However, now I can't start the bike to make sure it's all cleared up. I don't think it's a mechanical problem, as nothing has changed since the last time I had it running, so it might be a new electrical issue, this time with starting.

At first, I thought the battery might be low, so I got a charger and got it up to full. The starter itself works, and I can hear a cylinder catch every once in a while, but it won't fully start.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Again,

As I stated earlier, what condition is your fusebox in? Having to solder the headlight fuse is not a good sign! Have you inspected the fuse holders, and ensured that the fuses IF they are still glass ones are truly good with a continuity meter, not just a visual check?

Also, how old is the battery? They can take a surface charge, but still not hold a good deep charge.

Have you done a compression check? Have you ohmed the spark plug coils, both primary and secondary windings with the caps off, and also ohmed the caps?

Have you torn down the carbs and given them a good cleaning, thru the Pilot circuit, mains, etc.?

Were you able to start the bike before this? More info on what you have done, etc. will help in the diagnosis and such!
See my previous post regarding type of flasher!
T.C.

[BlkMage]

Sorry about the lack of detail. I'll try to clarify.

All fuses are good (checked with a multimeter), compression is good, battery is brand new, and carbs were torn apart and cleaned last week. Also last week, I had it running. Everything seemed ok at the time, except for the lights. I ended up finding 2 connectors that were supposed to go to the negative side of the battery, but then it didn't want to run. Thinking it might just be a little flooding, I put it up till today, but it still won't start.

And thanks again for the help, this is actually my first bike.

[TopCatGr58]

Okay,

I have to ask, what 2 connectors? There are wires in the system that will ground the ignition/TCI box. Have you checked your Emergency switch at the handlebar? They have been known to corrode and go bad.

There is also a tip over cutout switch under the tank above the ignition coils, saids "UP" on it, can also go bad, just unplug it to bypass.

Okay, you had it running last week ?after? you cleaned the carbs, or before?

Have you verified you have spark at the plugs? Also, fuel? Are the plugs wet or dry after trying to start?

How did you clean the carbs? Did you soak them for hours in a bucket of carb cleaner? That can damage the butterfly shaft seals and lead to massive vacuum leaks!

3 things to make engine run,
mechanical=compression: Check!
Spark?
Fuel?

Something in the wiring that you've fixed changed things?
T.C.

[BlkMage]

The 2 connectors were right by the battery. Emergency switch must be good, as the starter will not even work with it OFF. I ran it after cleaning the carbs, which involved disassembling the bowls, pulling the needle valves, and using spray carb cleaner to get all the green gunk out. I have sparks, but I don't know if the plugs are wet, I can check that in a bit. And while I'm at it, I'll check out that cutoff switch.

[BlkMage]

Cutoff switch is good, and fuel is getting to the cylinders. In fact, this last time, I got a couple of "pop"s in a row while the fuel valve was on Prime.

[John]

You need to tear the carbs apart further than that. Read all of the tips concerning carb cleaning, and you will see what you have over looked. I'll bet the choke circuit is plugged, the pilot circuit is plugged, and the main nozzles are, well, they ain't clean either.

[BlkMage]

Wait, do you mean the jets that you need a small flat-head screwdriver to remove? If so, we pulled those and cleaned them out.

I should mention that my father (aircraft mechanic, A&P, IA, used to work on bikes too) is the main mechanic here, I'm just doing what I can and trying to learn a few things. But I do understand what's been posted so far.

[TopCatGr58]

Okay, you've done the FIRST cleaning, now have 2 more to go!

A search for triple clean will tell you why, but a couple things stand out. Green junk, varnish in the carbs is probably ALL thru them. The pilot circuit is especially sensitive. Also, the small jets in the float bowls are for the enrichener/choke circuit, and IF they are clogged, you can't get fuel thru the choke circuit to start the bike. You may not have even noticed them? A small copper wire and carb spray can help get that open.

Also, did you spray cleaner thru the pilot jet hole and verify that spray came thru the 3 holes in the upper carb throat next to the engine where the butterflys contact? Also, were your pilot SCREWS brass caps removed from on top of the front/engine side of the carbs so that you could remove the pilot screws and small metal and rubber washers to ensure cleaning of the pilot circuit thru that part?

What color were the wires next to the battery? How did you determine that they were to be connected to the negative terminal?
T.C.

[John]

I mean everything in the carbs. The pilot jets are located right next to the main jet, and are deeply recessed in their port. You will need a thin, cabinet type screwdriver to access them. The pilot screws are located on the engine side of the carbs, on the top of the throttle body. The nozzles are what the main needles sit in. They can be removed from the top of the carb, after removing the main jet. The main jet is screwed into the nozzle. The choke circuit is the thin brass tube that sticks down into the float bowl. The port for it is in the edge of the bowl itself. It has a very small orifice, so take care not to enlarge the orifice. Try using the search feature on the top of this page, for all your carb repair needs. There is a lot of info there.