oil cooler results #2

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Dan,

Thanks for the info, however I've alread ordered the tapered NPT taps, even though I am using the tapered fittings!

I do use a dead center on my lathe when I'm tapping the mounting threads into my standard SOFA plates, cause I already have them centered in the lathe chuck, and the dead center fits nicely in the tailstock to help ensure a straight line! And yes, I've learned the benefit of LUBE during my machining adventures!

But these Oil plates are being tapped on their ends, so I just have them held in a bench vice, have a nice large handle from Sears for the tap.

Perhaps you can answer this? I was using a 27/64" drill bit which is what I had found and was told to use for the 1/4" NPT fittings! But I found that it was barely big enough to get the tip end of the tap into the hole. I recently used a 7/16"=28/64" size, the tap fitted a bit farther into it, but was wondering if a 15/32"=30/64" would be a better size, and easier to get aligned and allow me to cut the threads a bit deeper so that the fitting would screw in deeper into the piece??

Thanks in advance for helping a novice/apprentice machinist/hobbyist!
T.C.

[oseaghdha]

7/16 (.4375) is the standard tap drill.

TC
You maybe can get away with the bigger drill, but I would not want to go bigger than 29/64 (.453 ). 1/32 is quite a bit oversize, and you will end up going too deep with the tap. Then the fitting wont seal, or will strip.

[TopCatGr58]

It's no longer "taps" for my taps!

Hey Dan,XSchop, others,

Well, I got my NEW USA made 1/4" NPT taps yesterday PM but was too busy working on the upgrade for XS11.com! So....after work today, I rushed out to the "pseudo machine shop" and started in on them. I first reworked the one that I had broken the POS tap in, and was able to ream it out fairly cleanly, so that the fitting screwed almost all the way to the hilt, did the other hole to match! Then I started in on the other plates, and had them all done in less than an hour. Amazing how a quality tap can cut thru this aluminum like a hot knife thru butta'!



So...this first batch of 6 is done, and I'll be contacting those who get first dibs to find out if they are ready to acquire this fine piece of workmanship! The next reply will be with photos and such, along with a testimonial from Dave/Highlander on the prototype that he installed a few weeks ago!
T.C.

[MAXIMAN]

NICE WORK TC!

This one appears to be the proverbial "ticket!"

[TopCatGr58]

S.O.F.C.A. finalized!


T.C.'s Combo Spin-On Oil Filter Cooler Adapter=S.O.F.C.A.
Info and Installation Instructions
by T.C."TopCat" Gresham , posted 07-31-07

Dear fellow Xsives,
If you're tired of spilling oil all over your hands and the garage floor, rounding off the oil filter chamber bolt head, and in general just disgusted with the whole oil filter changing process, and have or want to add an oil cooler, then this item may be of interest to you!? This is one installed on a bike with OEM headers, and you can see that the filter just barely sticks out below the bottom level of the header pipes!




With the assistance and prodding of XSChop, Maximan, and other Xsives, I have come up with a modest Spin-On Oil Filter Cooler Adapter (S.O.F.C.A.) which will allow you to more conveniently and easily change your oil and filter without much of the mess and fuss and retain your oil cooler function. This adapter design is made from high grade strength 6061 Billet Aluminum 1.35" thick plate, machined to fit the engine of the XS-XJ1100 as well as the Venture, and the XS750 and 850 triples. It incorporates a piece of threaded pipe that fits into the hole that the OEM bolt went into, and a nut and washer that secures the O-ring and grooved plate up onto this pipe against the engine case, the pipe becomes the fitting for the spin-on oil filter and also provides the hose fittings for the oil cooler!

With the cooler fittings, the plate could not just be threaded on like the original SOFA. The plate has to be slide up into position to keep the fittings oriented forward. This design uses a large nut and washer to secure it with a recess cut into the filter side of the adapter; this adds to the overall thickness and puts the oil cooler to filter supply hole farther from the mounting center requiring the use of a wider AUTO filter, the Fram PH3950.

This is from the Fram site.

The PH3950 is 3.09" tall, 3.66" diam. 12 PSI relief valve setting, anti drain back valve, and 20mm X 1.5mm center.

Okay, now more info on fitment:
The OEM chamber is ~2.75 in. deep and your oil cooler plate is another 1" thick, so the total sticking down from the engine is ~3.75" to the bottom of the OEM filter chamber! The SOFCA plate is ~1.3 in. deep, the PH3950 filter is ~3.09 in. tall. This is a total of ~4.4 as you can see by this photo and the red hash mark at the bottom, the ruler isn't exactly aligned with the engine case fitting edge!


A few folks have some fancy pipes that cross right beneath the OEM chamber, and they have to take their headers off to change the filter. If you already have a cooler plate you will probably still need to drop the headers to allow extra room for spinning the filter on and off! And you'll need to be sure that you have an additional ~.75" of clearance between your existing cooler/filter chamber and the pipes.

However, if you have either aftermarket headers or OEM that do NOT cross beneath the filter, then you will want to ensure that you have about 4.5" between the #2 and #3 header pipes to allow clearance for the hoses coming off of the adapter, see below!

This is just my project bike, the headers are removed, I don't have any OEM ones to show anyways!


A few more technical notes: I was able to acquire some thinner mounting nuts, so I didn't have to cut the large ones in half! The washer and nut when tightened against the plate will make a seal around the mounting threaded pipe and the PLATE so that no O-ring or rubber washer is needed between the nut/washer and plate to seal it, the oil will NOT leak around it, but will go out to the oil cooler! The O-ring is a newer thicker version, Buna-N from McMaster-Carr, but since the plate will NOT be removed during oil filter changes, nor the O-ring replaced, this is why it is highly suggested to use the sealant along with the O-ring to provide a lasting SEAL! The fittings are machined brass 1/4" NPT thread, 3/8" OD hose fitting, rated at 250 psi! The fitting closest to #1 cylinder is OUT to Cooler.





Testimonial:

July 12, 2007
Yesterday I rode home in the rain. Well, they did say 80% chance of rain when I went to work, but I figured I wouldn’t mind riding in 80° rain. I didn’t. When I got home, there was a package and letter for me. Woohoo, Christmas in July. I ripped open the letter, and found an o-ring. In the box was a beautifully machined new SOFA/OFA. Well done TC. It looks better than either of my designs. I had thought of that, but wasn’t sure of the nut clearance in the filter. Is that why you chose that filter? There was also a nice set of instructions, complete with color pictures. Oh well, if all else fails, read the instructions. After looking over the parts, I determined that this should go together quite nicely without any goop or glue. If I had any leaking problems, I would retain their assistance. The only problem was that it went together so quickly, I didn’t even have time to drink one beer. So I let it idle in the garage while I had one, remember the rain? About 30 minutes of idling, and no signs of leaks. I put 40 miles on her today going to and from work, still nothing. How often do you want reports? I will get you some nice pictures this weekend. My only question now is, how much for one for my other bike? I LIKE IT!
Dave/Highlander

Followup: Here are the pictures of the SOFA/OCA installed. As far as applying Loctight at my next oil filter change, I have already thought about that, and I was going to see how the old oil filter removes first. I don't think there is going to be a problem, but I am prepared in case there is. I will be watching for when you start producing these, so I can get one for my other bike. Let me know if there is anything you want in the way of a testimonial.
Like I said before, I LIKE IT!
Dave/Highlander

***********************************
Ordering INFO:
The Unit Price is $55.00, which includes S & H Priority Mail to Continental US. International Orders will require a little more for the additional postage!

PayPal account info is: TopCatGr(at)cox.net *Replace the (at) with @ of course!
If you prefer to send check/M.O., send to:

T. Curtis Gresham
4097 Long Point Blvd.
Portsmouth, Va. 23703-5348

Please be sure to include your real name, address and XS11.com handle in comment with PayPal notice so I can keep track of who has ordered and paid, had shipped to, etc.!

Here is the link to the thread where it all began!
Oil Cooler Results/hijacked into the SOFA Cooler Adapter Thread

Installation Instructions:

1.) Drain oil and remove filter chamber and mounting bolt. Allow oil to drain thoroughly from engine.

2.) Prepare engine outer seal ring by cleaning with carb cleaner or equivalent, then Acetone to remove any traces of oil residue from mating surface. Also clean central threaded hole that mounting pipe will be threaded into.


3.) Currently, adapter plate is RAW aluminum, it has not been anodized, and so to protect it from road salts and such, a spray paint coating is recommended, either color or clear. Place the central threaded pipe into the plate with the nut/washer on the EngineSide, and then affix the oil filter to the Filter Side with a light snug, no oil on the rubber seal, yet! Then turn plate so that the engineside edge is down, and then after cleaning plate with Acetone, apply desired coating to outer surfaces, and allow to dry. Once dry, remove filter.

4.) Do a test fit, screwing the threaded pipe into the engine at least ½” or so. Mount plate/washer and nut so that it’s flush. Ensure you have enough threads to spin on the filter!


5.) Turn plate over, inspect mating surface for smoothness, if any paint dripped around edge, clean it and ensure smooth surface. Position thoroughly cleaned and degreased rubber O-ring into groove, and then apply thin film of Permatex/Yamabond/or equivalent Silicone Copper High temp gasket replacement sealer, not just RTV onto plate’s mating surface and O-ring and groove, allow to skin for about 10 minutes. Then apply generous amount of Locktite of choice to threaded pipe for a ½ ” length from end and screw the pipe into the engine the same distance you did in the DRY FITTING!

6.) Now, position the plate up to the engine with the oil supply fittings facing forward, and start threading the washer and nut combo again with Locktite, and screw the nut up so that the plate becomes flush with the engine. Once the O-ring makes contact, you can then tighten it using a crescent wrench to compress the O-ring so that the plate and engine case surfaces meet. You will see the gasket sealant ooze out slightly as you tighten, usually requires only about another ½ turn to get it really snug!!

6.) LET IT CURE OVERNIGHT or for the required 24 hours per the gasket sealer’s instructions!!!! Now, replace the drain plug screw, put the Fram PH3950 spin-on filter in place, this time using a thin film of oil on the rubber seal and hand tighten in place, and then fill with oil. Next, turn engine over for about 20-30 seconds, don’t let it start, just to prime the filter and engine’s top end with oil. Pause every 5-10 seconds to let the starter motor rest a few seconds, but you should eventually see the oil pressure light go out, then it’s safe to supply fuel, choke, and start it!
Of course let it warmup and then check for leaks before driving!

7.) The O-ring/groove is like the OEM design, but because you should NOT be removing the plate or replacing the O-ring at each filter change, you still need to apply the sealant to the mating surface as instructed to ensure a lasting seal incase the O-ring flattens with age/heat! IF the O-ring doesn’t seem to fit exactly, you can stretch it a few times and it will then fit without rolling out!

[MAXIMAN]

SOLD!

Thanks TC. The PayPal is on the way!

[xschop]

dido

and this is the new Mod Of The Year!

[MAXIMAN]

TC

Just got the new OCA/SOFA. I have one word........


S S S S WEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEET!

[xschop]

Only 2 words from me....

BLING-BLING

[prometheus578]

"All praise the American Knight!"

Once again, T.C., you have proven yourself to be the Top Cat when it comes to surmounting the insurmountable.

My only concern is the "Valium" ruler (as depicted in the photos)
How much medication did you need to use in order to win that free gift? Was your drug use a by-product of the "Genius to Madness" curse?
I was gifted a ruler from the Viagra people, but I believe it's just a marketing ploy. I don't think it's accurately scaled.
(Use their product and then measure yourself. According to their ruler, I'm now HUGE!)
Be that as it may...
Your adaptor reflects a HUGE amount of investment... both in time, and sheer inventiveness.
Brew some catnip tea, sit back and bask in the glow of our praise.

[xschop]

hahahaha

I saw that too. hey prom did you know that Viagara was developed originally for heart problems? It wasn't as effective as good old Aspirin. So it was marketed for its "side efect"....and makes millions off old farts like Hugh Hefner

[xschop]

sorry getting off subject

Just wanted to mention that I would have to pay over 35 bucks just to get the billet ( not to mention the extra fasteners/nipples)to make one of these, this is a bargain and is quality work to boot!

[TopCatGr58]

Good Eye Prom!

Hey Prom,

Yeah, when I was taking those photos, I wondered when you'd spot it! My wife's a nurse, so she gets drug rep goodies on occasion, about the only thing I get are pens, and flashlights!
I almost needed some during the development phase, but I'm all better now!

Hey Chop and Max, how about a product review report on it's performance...have you installed them yet!? Thanks for the comments, I try!
T.C.

[xschop]

install

I just changed my fluid filter a couple hundred miles ago when I did the clutch refurb. But I will install it this weekend an put some miles on it before I have to be back at work next tuesday....It's almost 100* here so this bad boy will be put to the test undoubtedly. The only thing I was worried about was if the thickness of the plate where the bolt compresses the washer would be thick enough....you did a good job there, looks to be @ 1/4" thick and solid....will progress report after weekend.....oh yeah did I mention BLING-BLING, now I will have to put stainless lines on to match the shine!

[TopCatGr58]

I can understand about not changing it right away. As for the SS lines, talk to Maximan, he used some fancy wrap around his hoses, they are not solid SS lines, so they have the bling look at a better $$!
T.C.