Get the SHIMS OUT

[Snow]

Originally posted by Czekus21
If your still having problems getting the shims out, you may want to try a small magnet/pick combo. This is the method I used doing mine.

Ditto - I did the same thing.

[DELL82]

RANDY I was going with TRBIG's recommendations for #2&3, what do you think

[randy]

Dell,

I'm certain that TRBIG knows more about XJ's than me, but if I were you I'd be wondering how the clearances on #2 & #3 INCREASED. You may have burned valves or crap on the valve faces. I know that the shims are hardened, so they don't wear, so I wonder where did the extra clearance come from?

[DELL82]

I don't know either but have been wondering about the compression for some time. this bike set in a container for over 12 years when I bought it. He said that he over heated it while trying to tune the carbs without a fan, in Texas heat. I will be testing the compression tonight with a screw in pressure gage. Will let you know tomorrow when I get back to the office.

[Ken Talbot]

Over time, the valves and the valve seats wear so the valve sits deeper into the seat. This pushes the end of the valve stem further up under the bucket which decreases the clearance between the shim and the cam. A thinner shim restores the required clearance.

[trbig]

One other thing...

If you can only start your bike with starting fluid... you have some carbs to clean. If the jets are clogged, you will be running lean, as indicated on the plugs.

Randy makes a very good point. I just saw the size, and never wondered as to WHY they may be high. Do you know anything about the previous owner or what they may have ever done to the bike?

You may want to do a compression test and see what you get. A proper compression test is done with a warm engine, all the plugs out, a good HOT battery, and the throttle held WIDE OPEN while cranking. All of them should be within 10% of each other. You may even want to put the 2 shims in that measured the .18 until you have ran it a bit.. then re-check after some miles have been put on.

Tod

P.S. Just let me know if you need any shims and what size. I'll check and see if I have them.

[DELL82]

Tom, Don't know what the PO's(3) have done to the bike. I have taken the carb rack totally apart including the shafts to replace the seals, dry and cracked. Replaced the intake boots suction hose covers, dry and did not seal. Mechanically synced all carbs. All jets are standard, however the exhaust look original but are not, 4 into two. Air cleaner is standard. Pilot screws are out two turns. Initially engine starts then gulps and dies. Tried without choke and throttle to no avail. With choke same result, a little throttle, same result. However I have been opening the pilots half turn at a time and some improved (hot) performance is good. When hot idles at or around 1100RPM. With two turns out on the pilot screws the plugs are showing signs of color, at least better than before. How far can I unscrew them? Just keep on until flooded when hot?
In reference to compression I checked last night after 40 mile run and got 150PSI on all cylinders, but did not have the throttle open. Using a screw in Snap-On gage set. Will the throttle make any difference? Should I check again?
THANKS for ALL HELP