manual tire changing

[SIZZSAM]

tire changing

Thanks Pat for the bead breaking advice. I have a problem with hammers. My eyesight isn't what it used to be. I used some welding vice grips and was able to break the bead with that but I think I can use the machine now but I just have to support the wheel so I don't damage a disc or anything. Did you pay $60 for your 78 e? What a deal. How's it running? Thanks again for the help. I'm going to the basement to take the rear off now. That should be fun with the shaft and everything. I'm going to find a balancer now and I'll be dealer free in the tire department. I have to apologize about not answering right away but I've noticed that most of us are in different time zones.

[DiverRay]

SIZZSAM,
The Kerker WILL fit with the center stand. That is what is on my '79. You may be able to find a baffle assembly on ebay, or have one made.
My system is complete, and sounds good, but isn't loud. I like being able to be past the officers BEFORE they know I'm around.
Ray

[SIZZSAM]

Baffle

Thank you Ray. I wasn't sure about the center stand but will go ahead and try to find one now. I found a 2'' baffel at Cycle Shack at cyclepages.com but they couldn't tell me if it would fit the kerker. I priced a kerker baffel and it was about $86.00. The one at cyclepages.com was only $11.00. It was a metal pipe with holes in it but no fiberglass or anything. The kerker I looked at had a pipe with glass wrapped around it. I guess without the fiberglas it would be louder. What do you think? Thanks for the help.

[DiverRay]

The Kirker without the glass is a little louder, but not much. I did wrap mine, and it's been on for about 25K miles. It still sounds good, and isn't loud. If I had the money, I would go with the Kirker.
Ray

[SIZZSAM]

kirker

Thanks Ray, I'll check ebay and may I can find a deal on the baffle.

[randy]

For bead breaking, I just set the wheel in my bench vise and clamp it down.

[Geezer]

That must be one big bench vice...

Geezer

[SIZZSAM]

bead breaking

Thanks Randy I'll try that next time. I just got through wrestling with the back tire. The header slip on had to come off before the wheel. I had the bike hanging by one support around the seat frame and that wasn't working so I drilled another hole in a joist in the basement and tied another rope to the front. That works much better as you can go up and down depending which end you need to work on. I managed to get the back tire removed from the rim and now I'm just waiting on the tires to arrive. I ordered a static balancer from ebay so I'm all set. I think my vice will take a tire so that's the first choice next time. Thanks for the great tips.

[TopCatGr58]

New Tech Tip Posted!

Hey folks,

Just wanted to mention that I posted a new tech tip with lots of photos for those newbies wanting to see how to do a manual tire change!

Since the photos upload for XS11.com was full, I activated the other 5 email addresses I'm allowed with my ISP, and each one has 10mb of server space for web pages! So I'm good to go for a while with tech tips photo space!!
T.C.

[SIZZSAM]

tech tips

Thanks TopCat for the pictures. I read that you should balance the wheel first without the tire and then the tire and wheel. Is that correct?

[prometheus578]

Incorrect

What would happen if you balance the wheel, put the tire on, and it doesn't balance? You end up taking off the weights which you just put on and moving them to another location.
Wheels are balanced with the rubber on. That way everything is taken into account.
You may be recalling something you read concerning spoked rims where, one doesn't balance the rim first, but uses a "trueing stand" to make sure the rim is true and not out of round, nor has "runout" side to side. this is done by loosening or tightening the spokes to pull the rim back into shape.(then the rubber is put on and the whole thing balanced like normal)

[prometheus578]

"Furthermore..."

Everytime a wheel comes off, you should always stick your finger in the wheel bearing and spin it... checking for tightness, binding, or those little clicks you feel when bearings go bad.

[Geezer]

Re: Incorrect

Originally posted by prometheus578

You may be recalling something you read concerning spoked rims where, one doesn't balance the rim first, but uses a "trueing stand" to make sure the rim is true and not out of round, nor has "runout" side to side.

Back when I was turning wrenches, a bike mechanic couldn't get a job if he didn't know how to lace and true wheels. Now a days, only a few know how to do it...

Geezer

[SIZZSAM]

truing wheels

Thanks Prom, I think that was about truing spoked wheels. I'm glad I checked on the forum as it will save me much trouble. I got my elite IIIs today and will go ahead and mount them and should have the static tire balancer sometime this week. Every one has been a great help in the forum and I really appreciate the advice and tips.

[Pat Kelly]

Something you can do if you want to get anal about balancing your tire/wheel with the least amout of weight (or possibly none at all) and have the time.
check the balance your wheel without the tire. Mark the heavy spot on the rim. This mark should never change.
Mount the tire on the rim and check balance again. If the heavy spot is at or near the heavy spot on the rim then rotate the tire on the rim.
It is possible to get the heavy spot on the tire opposite the heavy spot on the rim and the tire/wheel combo can be balanced without weights.
I've done this before on my own wheels and for customers (if they agree to pay me hourly as it can be time-consuming).
The tire manufacturer puts a dot on the tire that is supposed to line-up with the valve stem to do this. How do they know what kind of valve setm you're using? Long, short, metal, rubber.