Final Drive Transplant _ Kudos 2 Chop!

[chevy45412001]

ebay

fle bay has three (3) xs750 final drive units for sale now, one has swingarm included.Just in case someone was interesred.

[MAXIMAN]

Re: 850 final drive

Originally posted by John
I'll bet I don't have a total of three hours in it, andthat includes soaking and cleaning it, plugging the oil return holes, and fitting the copper spacer. I was even able to re-insert the drive shaft into the the U joint yoke without having to dick around trying to position the yoke at the middle drive.

Preach it brotha John. It's a "lead pipe cinch". Abolsutely the easiest and most results oriented mod I've ever done to an Eleven. I'm betting you feel the same...no?

[MAXIMAN]

Re: A couple of little side notes

Originally posted by John
A couple of things I discovered when doing my swap: 1) Do not remove the small phillips head screw on the flange where the four mounting studs protrude through, and in fact, place a couple of washers on two of the studs, and run nuts down on them snugly. This will prevent the pinion from coming out of the housing when pulling the drive shaft/oil seal out, and possibly disturbing the shimming of the pinion. In place of a slide hammer to pull the driveshaft, you could clamp onto it with a vise grip, and strike the vise grip with a hammer. That will drive it out.
2) Another tip is that the large 1/2 inch washer that Maximan calls for can be substituted with the washer that is in use on the XS11 FD. It is the correct size, and it completely covers the oil return holes. Maximan cautions about reinserting the pinion back in place so that the oil holes line up. Of course if you do not remove the pinion from the housing, then this caution is needless, but if it does come out, everything will realign when you line up the hole for the small phillips head screw when reassembling the FD.

I agree whole heartedly. In retro-spect had I known the pinion assembly was going to come out I would've doen exactly that. There is no reason to remove the pinion...just the retainer nut and washer plate.

the reason I didn't use the washer from my Eleven drive I s wanted to leave it intact so if I ever decided to lower the gearing back to OEM I could do it in a matter of an hour or so.

However I am so utterly pleased with the spectacular result I doubt I will ever go back to that high revving gear ratio.

[MAXIMAN]

Re: I have the parts comming!

Originally posted by kennewick58
I too have decided to attempt this mod. It seemed something I could do. I bought a low mile 81 special swing and shaft/ end pumpkin. also a low mile 750 drive. This will have the triple guys liken the ole Road Kill. Anyway what I want to know is what kind of thought is behind the copper spacer. Just cost, availability. Will there be any wear on the soft metal. What about a stainless spacer?

I thank the thinking here!!

Pretty much Chop used it becasue it was readily available.

However...I would seriously consider a steel or bronze spacer.

I have not checked mine (copper) since the install but I will in a few days to see if there is any noticable wear.

In any case i am going to replace the copper with a bronze spacer.

If you read a few post back up thread you'll see I posted reference to a widely available rocker arm bushing that I have found. It is for a 346 FAIRBANKS Morse engine.

This bushing is bronze and is the exact diameter needed for a spacer. It only needs to be cut for length. Being bronze it is far more durable than copper. I am not sure it is needed but I am going to take the precaution and use it anyway.

[kennewick58]

Pain in the arse

Been looking for the morse346 rocker arm bush. Can you narrow it down for me?

This just what I would want to use I was concerned about copper wearing out.

Probably easy to find but no luck.

Thanks for the tip.

[MAXIMAN]

It is a rocker arm bushing ofr a 346 Fairbanks Morris engine.

Arrow Specialty Products handles these parts. The Arrow part number is 1009 in their catalog.

But you can probably call these guys and ask for parts:

http://www.kraftpower.com/service.html

Then ell them you need an rocker arm bushing for a 346.

If you have trouble...just e-mail me rocktone@aol.com and I'll get one for ya. I can get one in a few days from a local oilfield supply store.

This goes for anyone else. I can get these bronze bushings through Fechner pump and supply if anyone wants one.

[MAXIMAN]

Here's another option:

Arrow Engine
2301 E Independence
Tulsa, OK 74110
Phone: (918) 583-5711


Arrow probably has the part in stock.

But if not e-mail me.

Cody

[TopCatGr58]

New Tech Tip!!

Hey Cody(Maximan), and XSChop,

I just made this a new tech tip in the MODS, Transmission section. I put it there instead of "wheels" since the Final Drive is part of the DriveTrain, thought it fit there better than MISC!

Kudos to you for such fine photodocumentation, and to XSChop for such great research!!
T.C.

[John]

There is an XS 850 SG final drive on ebay right now and it is sill cheap. Here is the auction number: 290059457446

[MAXIMAN]

That thing looks like it's been part or something...check out the blue RTV around the gear coupling... Whazzup wid dat?

[Poprock]

the verdict

A little road test on Zilla was close to a religious experience! All the travail involved in the rebuild, the tranny work and the gearing was well worth it. Smooth, effortless power when ever you want it. Congratulations, Maximan, on a re-design well done.

[GNEPIG]

.. ok, i didnt really understand what was going on with the final drive improvement thing until i had a good look at some rear end parts that i have laying around the shop.
after studying the parts a light bulb came on.. holy crap! i said out loud.
.. Maximans instructions are right on! i can do this, anyone can do this! now i'm going to do this mod to my ugly black bike.
does anyone know if a FD from an 850 will give me the same effect? i already have one of those.

good job Maximan and Chops!

[John]

850 Final Drive

The 850 Final Drive is the same as the 750's. I used one from an 850 on mine when I did it last month. One thing you can do is to remove the large flat washer under the pinion nut on the 11's FD, and use it on the 850 FD to cover the oil return hole once you sealed it with RTV silicone. It is the perfect size. Make sure you do not remove the small phillips head screw that secures the mounting flange to the housing. It is not necessary, and that way you will not disturb the pinion shimming. Place a few washers on one stud on the mounting flange, and run a nut down over them to ensure the pinion doesn't come out of the housing. If the drive shaft is still in the FD, it will be a little difficult to remove because the oil seal is pressed into the housing, but if you clamp a vise grip to the shaft, you can smack that with a hammer and remove the shaft that way. With any luck, you'll be able to reinsert the drive shaft without having to go in through the rubber boot that covers the U joint.

[MAXIMAN]

If I can do it...an untrained monkey can do it.

[malber]

Is there a post somewhere that describes why this is a beneficial mod?