Aluminum rehab

[xschop]

craftsman

59 bucks for grinder on sale and use a 6 inch buff wheel and black rouge....

[audijunky]

I think weither of the above buffers would work good. I used this method with some success
http://www.slickschoppers.com/TechAr..._aluminum.html
It worked pretty good

[Shuriken]

Thanks for that excellent web link, Steve. I will try your method. I have a vise, dremel, drill, and I will purchase the $59 dollar buffer, along with materials. I will post before and after pics.

Ben

[prometheus578]

Ae7f...
I bought the Harbor Fight buffer several years ago. No regrets. It's got a long shaft(like me, Woo Woo!) out the side so you can twist whatever you're workin' on at different angles and still have good clearance from the polisher motor, etc.
Shaft/arbor area is wide enough to mount several pads together so as to get a wider buffing area.
At $67 or so... I think it's worth it.
(I just need to work on my technique a bit... which compounds.. which type of buffing pads, etc.)
It'll take that old yellowed varnish offa a set of fork legs and get them lookin' like chrome pretty quickly.

[xschop]

coating removal

Scratch up the old yellow coating with 120 grit, then spray with aircraft paint remover(wal-mart) and watch it bubble right off...save yourself alot of time. then buff to chrome like prom said....did the whole bike this way in no time...chop

[prometheus578]

HHmmmmm...

I just read that "Slick Choppers' link, and I disagree.
firstly, he goes from polishing compound to compound on the same buffing wheel.
I would, but then this is me, have different polishing pad/wheels for each grade of compound. Why would I want to apply a finer grade of 'abrasive' polishing material to a wheel that is coated with a coarser grade? Sure... so I then need three different buffing pads. Big deal. (there are also different types of buffing pads for the different compounds, which I would also recommend.
Used colored markers, or paint to mark the sides of the pads to correspond with the colors of the different compounds. After a while, all your pads will turn black and you'll have a hard time remembering which pad was for the coarse compound, and which for the finer grades.
Secondly, I don't believe he mentioned wearing a face mask. Not just eye protection(as the pads shred and threads go flying during use), but a respirator/dust mask as this is gonna get quite messy. My lungs hurt for a little while after my first time buffing.
(I had to sit down, have a smoke, and take a break)
Keep an eye on what your doing. There's nothing worse than, when polishing a large part, to focus so intently on the part by the wheel, and not see the other end of the part resting against the polishing machine motor, or your grinder stand... getting a nice "vibration groove" ground into it.

You are correct, Chop... I've done that, too.

[Shuriken]

Thanks for the info, guys. There is a lot of info on this subject, even with a simple Google search. I don't have loads of time or money to spend on the project, so Steve's tips are OK.

I also agree with eye protection, dust protection, and different buffing wheels, too. Harbor Freight also sells a 3 pak of wheels, one of each designed to work with the 3 popular compounds.

While we are talking about supplies, how much compound is it going to take me to buff the carb caps and bowls, stator and clutch covers, valve cover, carb boot clamps, etc?

I know that might be too broad of a question, but I don't know how long wheels or compound last.

Ben

[audijunky]

At sears they sell a four pack of buffing compound. white, red, black and brown. I polished every aluminium piece on the motor/ and carbs except the block and fins. I still have plenty of compound left and when I started all the aluminium pieces were pitted and a dull grey oxidized color. That pack will provide plenty of compound for your above mentioned pieces.

[audijunky]

Oh yeah, as Prom said get one wheel for each compound your gonna use, you should beable to get it done that way. How many wheels per compound you need depends on the size of the wheels you get. I got 6" wheels and one 3' wheel . haven't had to replace them yet.
and Dido on the chops suggestion, that sh-t will eat anything off of metal, DO NOT get it on your skin, It burns like a MFer.

[xschop]

elephant snot

methyl chloride is the main ingredient....When I was in the Air Force, we called it elephant snot... Bright green and it would eat through layers of paint at a time....your finger too

[red bandit]

I bought a cone buffer for my electric drill, 3" long and 3" dia. paid about $5, bought white rouge, said it's for aluminum, works great. After the initial sanding and polishing, just leave the parts on the bike and polish, works great on forks on side covers.

[Geezer]

I'm fond of painting parts black. That way I never have to polish them again.

Lazy? Damn straight I am...

Geezer

[The Lorax]

I used a pneumatic die grinder with an asortment of buffing wheels (depending on what color compound I was using). I clearcoated my pieces they haven't turned yellow yet, except for the one that had gas leak on it (pinhole in the tank). need to re-do that one.

[Shuriken]

I bought this...

And this...

And this.

I will update with progress/results.

Ben

[switz1]

Update

So how did the Harbor Freight stuff work out?