God Dam It

[79XS11F]

OK I am putting my hop up engine together and have a problem. There is a oil feed cover on the shifter side of the engine under that cover. I have used care to install it flatly but when I firmed up the lock tight-ed screws it cracked at the narrow end where the O ring is. I took the same part off my parts engine and used even more care and only seated the screws lightly and it still cracked at the same location. So now I have only one more of that part that is currently in my running engine. How the hell am I to install that oil supply cover to the trany shaft with out braking it???? Anyone know if that is a pressurized supply or gravity feed?? Can I supper glue the broker one back together after cleaning with contact cleaner and reuse it??? This is an important part that supplies oil to the trany shaft so it MUST work perfectly.
Anyone else have this issue after splitting the cases??
Rob

[oseaghdha]

Not familiar with it(yet). But super glue likely won't hold up under heat.
Solder repair maybe?

[audijunky]

There are people who can weld aluminum. I think?
As to why they keep cracking, sounds like something isnt lining up right. or another part is putting pressure on the plate from the inside?

[mro]

Cases not lined up???

Triangular shaped goodie with o- ring behind it, held in place by 3 flat head screws?

If it broke when tightening it, (twice?), then you've got a problem.



mro

[80mdnt11]

O-Ring?

Same thing happened to me! Ahrugggggggg!!!@#$%^ ! Check the size of the o-ring. I bought gasket kit / parts-n-more/ tranny repair, grabbed o-ring from kit. Tightened bear cover and POP!!!!! O-ring was too thick. Luckily had spare from tranny purchase. As for repair, TIG I would think. don't think I would trust it though. Find another if you need to and like mro says check allingment and yes the o-ring, tightening it EVENLY!
BTW--- found correct size o-ring at local nappa store

[79XS11F]

Re: Cases not lined up???

Originally posted by mro
Triangular shaped goodie with o- ring behind it, held in place by 3 flat head screws?

If it broke when tightening it, (twice?), then you've got a problem.



mro

Checked both surfaces and they are smooth and flat. That O-ring dose look a little on the fat side so perhaps I should change it out. I think what I will do here is bond it together with high heat RTV adhesive and install it with the new O-ring. There is no mechanical issue just that it would no doubt leak through the crack. The crack can't even be seen when it is mounted by it is there. I am sure that if I stop potential leaking at the crack it will be OK.
I will however do this on my reg 1979 engine and use the part from it on the hop up engine. I can't use both engines at the same time so I will be OK untill I can find a replacement part or have it welded.
Rob

[80mdnt11]

Hey Rob, If you are going to use the cracked cap, you might try J-B Weld. I thought about it on mine, went with the spare instead. As for the O-ring, make sure it is allmost flush with bear cap surface when installed. Dosn't need much to seal. I think this is pressurized oil passage. I like to put a little moly-lube grease on them prior to install to keep them in place and help seal. Good luck!
Jim

[79XS11F]

I was thinking after posting that perhaps it would be best to apply yamabond #3 to the crack. That's the same stuff that's used to bond the cases together and should hold back leaks as long as no force is applied which I don't think will be the case here. The 2 parts fit together perfectly and very tightly. The shape of the crack is such that the parts will not move once in place so leakage through the crack was my only real concern.
Rob

[strom]

AAARGH....
gonna smack ya bwoy....
The screws are not normal flatheads... they are the sink type... cone shaped head on the thread end, flat top. If the bottom part of the head is flat, youre gonna crack even more of em. Change the screws...

LP

[79XS11F]

Originally posted by strom
AAARGH....
gonna smack ya bwoy....
The screws are not normal flatheads... they are the sink type... cone shaped head on the thread end, flat top. If the bottom part of the head is flat, youre gonna crack even more of em. Change the screws...

LP

The screws are in deed "sink" type torex that I am using. They are the factory units that require lock tight on them because they are not torqued screws. I am just seating them and the blasted part still cracks. The description that mro gave was a quick I'm sure. In any case the chances of finding this part without having to buy more them I need is not likely so I will have to do the best I can with what I got. What do you think about using the yamabond on this crack? I know it's not ideal but I thin kit will do the job.
Rob

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Rob,

This is the part, right? Not what my gloved finger is pointing to, but the part the BLUE hand/arrow is pointing at!?


You don't want to use RTV with oil. I like the JB Weld idea better. Just where did it crack? If one of the 3 ears that are used to secure it in place have broken off, I would be concerned about the plate keeping the bearing and gear shaft in place!

Can you post a photo of it showing the crack/break?!

I'm just surprised to hear that the PNM gasket kit O-ring is too large and that it could cause this?! Looks like we need to add this bit of info into the PNM bad parts reference thread in the product reviews!
T.C.

[xssiveone]

TC, I'm pretty sure that is not the part... I know, cause I have a broken one just like Rob's...

The O ring is the culprit, no question about it. As for the JB weld, no idea. I believe it is part of the oil system, and therefore presurized. I think it feeds one or more bearings actually.

[trbig]

I've seen JB Weld hold on cylinder blocks on a big dozer motors... good stuff if you get the area clean and prepped first. Nothin to lose... you have another spare cracked one if it doesn't hold..
Sorry... I know you're ticked... I don't always joke around in the best circumstances... Good luck.

Tod

[79XS11F]

Originally posted by TopCatGr58
Hey Rob,

This is the part, right? Not what my gloved finger is pointing to, but the part the BLUE hand/arrow is pointing at!?


You don't want to use RTV with oil. I like the JB Weld idea better. Just where did it crack? If one of the 3 ears that are used to secure it in place have broken off, I would be concerned about the plate keeping the bearing and gear shaft in place!

Can you post a photo of it showing the crack/break?!

I'm just surprised to hear that the PNM gasket kit O-ring is too large and that it could cause this?! Looks like we need to add this bit of info into the PNM bad parts reference thread in the product reviews!
T.C.

Not that big one TC .. it's the little one right below your real pointed finger. It is cracked at the single screw end.
Rob

[79XS11F]

GOOD NEWS

So I pulled a late one last night in the garage in an effort to get this hop-up engine in my bike for tomorrow morning / afternoon. I took that little oil supply part off to do the "Mickey mouse" repair and low and behold it was NOT CRACKED. I was surprised because I did in deed hear it crack and could have sworn that i could see the hair line crack at the surface of the metal. I pulled and twisted on the single screw end of the part and it would not come apart. So it went back on with great care and I now have the clutch and trany parts installed and both oil holding covers back on the engine.

Rob