Generator Removal

[79XS11F]

OK I did not remove the generator from the Left hand side of the crank when I split my cases but I can see now that the cases have a lip that slips under the generator and it is making reassembly difficult because I can not drop the bottom half straight down onto the top half. I do not have the Yamaha tool for removal of the generator but do have a puller. I have not however been able to get that bugger off. I have tighten the puller up very tight and taped on the end ... no luck. I have done it with heat put to the generator while under puller tension and still no luck. I was using a propane plumbers torch as the heat source and I wonder .. is that enough heat? I do have a papane torch. Should I use that and REALLY heat the generator up while under puller tension? I really need to get this puppy off there to proceed with the work.
Rob

[79XS11F]

Done . Well I put the heat to it BIG TIME with the papane torch even if there was a risk of melting the crank seal and REALLY tightened up the puller. I was sure the legs were going to pop right off ... but they didn't and with a good SHARP blow to the pullers center bolt the generator popped off :-) As soon as everything cools off I will move forward with the reassembly of the lower end :-)
Rob

[mro]

the three generators I've pulled all required heat. Bent the bolt pulling one off.

btw
Are you following the manual for reassembly?

Book mentions a few things that may not be obvious,
but seem essential



mro

[79XS11F]

Yes I do have a manual but fill me in in case I over look anything.

I have new O rings and I have liquid gasket for the joint. I know about getting in close to the crank bearings with the gasket maker. I have the torque pattern and oil the bolts first. Anything else ???????
Rob

[mro]

left manual at shop, but

I sorta remember that there's a couple "o" rings in case, yamaBond four used between cases, (not to make contact w/one "o" ring), but needs to be around case bolt holes etc..
Prime oil pump and filter. Sure there's more but......???



mro

[79XS11F]

Thanks for the input mro.
Yes I have read that stuff as well and I am re reading the manual and making notes for when I actually do it which will be soon. I just did a "dry" run and the cases went right together nicely. It would be a sin to do this and install the 1179 kit and have something go wrong in the bottom end. I am not using yamabond #4. I am using "three bond" liquid gasket 1104. I have been told by every mechanic I have spoken to that this is the same stuff ... just a LOT CHEAPER to buy.
The cases are very finely machined and fit together very nicely so the key will be using JUST enough and not too little or too much. I have contact cleaner for the pre-prep of those surfaces. I wire wheeled every bolt and all threads and will have 2 torque wenches set to go for the different sized bolts. It really should be pretty straight forward but the cost of doing it wrong makes me somewhat nervous.
Rob

[79XS11F]

It's done. It went smooth enough and I can only hope that everything is as it should be. I will take a break now and maybe do some other parts of this job later.
I still need to glass bead the block and head, check the end gaps and correct as necessary the rings, clean up the base gasket area and some other loose ends before putting the top end together. I will be glad when it is a sealed engine again.
Once it is all put back together I will run it with a 1/2 inch drive drill to confirm that everything is as it should be and to get oil to all the places where it is needed. It is done with the plugs out of course.
That's a little trick a friend who hops up car engines told me years ago. It is referred to as per-lubing.
Rob