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  • #16
    Rob,
    Coils are only about 2 months old and use the newer graphite inners. I used dielectric grease when I made the wires and also use that stuff on the plug ends any time I have the leads off.
    If you put the dielectric grease on the wire side of the caps, you have problems!!
    The wires go into the coils, and plug caps, with just a LITTLE grease ON THE OUTSIDE INSULATOR. DO NOT get any grease NEAR the graphite core of the wires!!!
    If you did, buy new SOLID CORE wires, and try them.
    Ray
    Ray Matteis
    KE6NHG
    XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
    XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

    Comment


    • #17
      Nice spray booth there, gives me some ideas...
      Ken Talbot

      Comment


      • #18
        Hey DiverRay,

        Thanks for that input. I was thinking the same thing, that the Dielectric grease is an INSULATOR, and should not be in contact/in between where the wires and caps join.

        At XS East 2006, some specialized copper impregnated electric grease was dispensed as gifts, and it DID have conductive properties enhancing the conductivity of metal to metal connections, and so different application techniques were recommended. That the stuff should be put into the FEMALE end of connector plugs, and then the excess wiped away prior to putting the plugs together, otherwise any extruded grease could actually cause "SHORTS" due to it's conductivity!

        T.C.
        T. C. Gresham
        81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
        79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
        History shows again and again,
        How nature points out the folly of men!

        Comment


        • #19
          Well isn't that just wonderful to learn. Thanks for that info. I was led to believe that it should be used at all connections to prevent corrosion and enhance conductivity. OK when I made up the plug wires I did not use that grease in between any of the parts but did use it to lube the wires to pull them through the boots I will clean that up very soon. I checked and corrected the gap between the pickups and actuator. WOW they were like 2 times the spec away. It's running a little better but at sustained RPMs it will start to miss. Not horribly but I can hear it in the pipe. Runs VERY well as long as your accelerating lol lol but misses at study RPM.
          Rob
          KEEP THE RUBBER SIDE DOWN

          1978 XS1100E Modified
          1978 XS500E
          1979 XS1100F Restored
          1980 XS1100 SG
          1981 Suzuki GS1100
          1983 Suzuki GS750S Katana
          1983 Honda CB900 Custom

          Comment


          • #20
            Rob, I hate to be the one to say it, but I will anyway...
            CHECK THE CARBS! A miss at a steady RPM, and good acceleration is a sign of out of carb problems. You did read the "Tech Tips", and adjust all the carbs, then put a vacume gauge SET or mercury stick tool on to check them?
            Ray
            Ray Matteis
            KE6NHG
            XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
            XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

            Comment


            • #21
              Re: Reading plugs...the bases!

              Originally posted by TopCatGr58
              Hey Rob,

              From what I learned from another very experienced Xsive about reading plugs is that you don't go by the insulator so much as the appearance of the metal base ring of the plug. And yours are fairly black....not sooty flaky, but a definite black color, and there is color on your plugs insulators as well, so I don't think you are running lean at all!
              T.C.
              I agree.. The dial_A-jet system is designed to prevent lean running but can't correct a rich mix. I already have the pilot screws dialed out an extra 1.5 turns to help with the idle. The pipe is pretty much straight through. Do you think it could be too rich? Perhaps I should disable the dial-A-jet system and see what I get. I'm just afraid that if i run it lean and have a issue related to running lean I will damage something and be Sh** out of luck. I also wanted to be sure that when I install the 1179 hop up engine I am safe instead of sorry.
              Rob
              Last edited by 79XS11F; 07-22-2006, 09:09 AM.
              KEEP THE RUBBER SIDE DOWN

              1978 XS1100E Modified
              1978 XS500E
              1979 XS1100F Restored
              1980 XS1100 SG
              1981 Suzuki GS1100
              1983 Suzuki GS750S Katana
              1983 Honda CB900 Custom

              Comment


              • #22
                Originally posted by DiverRay
                Rob, I hate to be the one to say it, but I will anyway...
                CHECK THE CARBS! A miss at a steady RPM, and good acceleration is a sign of out of carb problems. You did read the "Tech Tips", and adjust all the carbs, then put a vacume gauge SET or mercury stick tool on to check them?
                Ray
                I will check them when they come off to install the hop up engine. I did however clean them by full submersion method and every hole in them was blown out with compressed air. I also replaced every jet in them and synced them with vac gage set. I am sure this is something simple and fixable. I will not give up until i find the issue and correct it.
                Rob
                KEEP THE RUBBER SIDE DOWN

                1978 XS1100E Modified
                1978 XS500E
                1979 XS1100F Restored
                1980 XS1100 SG
                1981 Suzuki GS1100
                1983 Suzuki GS750S Katana
                1983 Honda CB900 Custom

                Comment


                • #23
                  Originally posted by 79XS11F
                  I did however clean them by full submersion method and every hole in them was blown out with compressed air. I am sure this is something simple and fixable. Rob
                  Hey Rob,

                  You may have hit on something here!? Even though you have synched them, you could possibly have a vacuum leak, due to damaged butterfly shaft seals from the FULL SUBMERSION technique of cleaning WITHOUT removing the shafts and seals first!

                  Get some starter spray, carb spray, something similar that you can spray around the shaft seals while it's idling and listen for changes in rpm. IF there are changes, then you have a leak!
                  T.C.
                  T. C. Gresham
                  81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
                  79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
                  History shows again and again,
                  How nature points out the folly of men!

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Originally posted by TopCatGr58


                    Get some starter spray, carb spray, something similar that you can spray around the shaft seals while it's idling and listen for changes in rpm. IF there are changes, then you have a leak!
                    T.C.
                    Hey TC, starter spray is flamable, carb spray can hurt the seals if you do a direct attack. Will WD40 work? I know the stuff could probably burn but I suspect it is not so volitile as starter spray. Anyone tried it?
                    Skids (Sid Hansen)

                    Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Hey Skids,

                      I've seen all sorts of things suggested, from Brake Cleaner, etc.

                      Yes, Starter spray is flammable, that's the idea, in that when there's a leak, it gets into the carbs/heads and adds to the fuel mixture changing the rpms. Carb cleaner, or WD40 isn't easily flammable, and so the rpms should drop when it's sprayed if there's a leak! Also, the carb cleaner isn't going to sit there very long, it'll evaporate fairly quickly so I don't think it would cause any damage to the seals for the short time it's there, vs. the 1+ hours soaking time that folks put their carbs thru in the cleaner baths!?
                      T.C.
                      T. C. Gresham
                      81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
                      79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
                      History shows again and again,
                      How nature points out the folly of men!

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        .. according to the web site, it looks like you might be running a little rich. how many main jet sizes did you go down when you installed the dial-a-jet[as per the instructions], and what setting do you have your dial at? [1 thru 5, 5 being the leanest, i think?]
                        ..also can you feel any performance difference over stock with the dial-a-jet?.. all of that better atomization stuff sounds interesting.

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          I have not changed the jetting in my carbs at all. The jets are new throughout but are stock sizes. From what I read in the media article the best results were when the jets were up sized as is normal when one installs performance parts. I currently have my dial-a-jet set at the full lean position because I am already running a little rich. I am hoping that when I install my hop up engine with the Wiseco 1179 kit and ported / polished head that it will be “just right” even in the lean position.
                          I decided to go with the dial-a-jet setup because I am no carb expert and can not risk doing damage to my engine should I jet the carbs too lean.
                          If after i install the hop up engine it still runs rich I will in deed reduce the main jet and start playing around with that.
                          Rob
                          KEEP THE RUBBER SIDE DOWN

                          1978 XS1100E Modified
                          1978 XS500E
                          1979 XS1100F Restored
                          1980 XS1100 SG
                          1981 Suzuki GS1100
                          1983 Suzuki GS750S Katana
                          1983 Honda CB900 Custom

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            On a slightly different note I really should STOP being SO FUSSY about the way my bike is running. I went out to a afternoon party yesterday and returned at 1 AM. It rained part way there, the bike was in the rain for close to 8 hours and it rained most of the way home. My bike fired right up at 1 AM and didn't miss a beat all the way home. Perhaps I am expecting too much from this old but wonderful girl?
                            Rob
                            KEEP THE RUBBER SIDE DOWN

                            1978 XS1100E Modified
                            1978 XS500E
                            1979 XS1100F Restored
                            1980 XS1100 SG
                            1981 Suzuki GS1100
                            1983 Suzuki GS750S Katana
                            1983 Honda CB900 Custom

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Well 79, the bike should take off to 50mph in 1st in a blink, and from 50 to 75 in another blink, and 3rd should be hauling you towards the ton very swiftly.

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Well That's the way I remember it pggg but I'm not getting this sort of performance at this time. In an effort to lean out the carbs I drilled 2 - 1.5 inch holes in the bottom of the air box but NO change. This evening I disabled the Dial-A-Jet system and still not real "seat of the pants" change in that all important 2500 to 5000 RPM range. The throttle is VERY touchy at the very bottom and the bike pulls real hard above 5000 RPM but the middle is in NEED of HELP.
                                The MAC 4 into 1 pipe is not a "true" performance exhaust but with its baffle pretty much gutted it is a straight through setup. It must be allowing the engine to breath better and there must be some exhaust scavenging going on.
                                So at this point I'm running on stock jetting, a k&N in the drilled box and a MAC 4 into 1 pipe with the baffle pretty much gutted... The exhaust note is still not crisp at all in the mid range and the bike dose not pull as it should!!! This thing should be running LEAN at this point but that dose not seem to be the case. I think I am going to have to put in smaller main jets and or drop the needle to lean her out and set the dial-A-Jet back up so it does the job it is meant to do.
                                ANY input from anyone would be as usual appreciated.
                                Rob
                                KEEP THE RUBBER SIDE DOWN

                                1978 XS1100E Modified
                                1978 XS500E
                                1979 XS1100F Restored
                                1980 XS1100 SG
                                1981 Suzuki GS1100
                                1983 Suzuki GS750S Katana
                                1983 Honda CB900 Custom

                                Comment

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