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  • #16
    Thanks for the advice guys. I pulled the cam chain tensioner just to be sure it was working properly and all checks out.

    Then I did what TopCatGr58 suggested and pulled the plugs while running. The instant I pull the plug cap from cylinder 2 the knocking stops. So I guess you guys are probably right that there is a bad rod.

    TopCatGr58, what are the differences between the parts you listed. I see that same list on bike bandit but I don't know what the significance of the colors are. Which parts will I most likely need? The new bearing and a new rod. Anything else?

    Thanks again guys. You are being very helpful.
    ..... I'll just skip to the Baja part.

    Follow my Evan Fell Cycles: Motorcycle Blog
    evanfell.com | twitter.com/evanfell_cycles | flavors.me/evanfell

    lots of my motorcycle photos | personal favorites slideshow

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    • #17
      And another quick question:

      I've torn apart single cylinder engines before, but never anything larger. How does one go about pinching all the piston rings and fitting them inside the cylinder when everything is being put back together? It seems like several people would be needed, unless there is a trick I am unaware of.

      Thanks!
      ..... I'll just skip to the Baja part.

      Follow my Evan Fell Cycles: Motorcycle Blog
      evanfell.com | twitter.com/evanfell_cycles | flavors.me/evanfell

      lots of my motorcycle photos | personal favorites slideshow

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      • #18
        I've done it with four large hose clamps acting as ring compressors. It still helps to have a second set of hands as you're lowering the cylinders onto the pistons.
        Ken Talbot

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        • #19
          Bearing colors

          The way to determine the color/size is by either looking on the edge of the bearing for the color, or to do the math. On the side of con rod where the stud is, will be a number in ink. On one end of the crankshaft, I don't remember which, on the counter weight are two sets of numbers. One has 5 digits, and the other has 4 digits. You want to use the 4 digit set. The 5 digit set pertains to the main bearings. These 4 numbers correspond to the rods. The first digit will be #1 rod, the second will be #2, etc, Using the number on the rod and the corresponding number on the crank, you will subtract the larger from the smaller, and that will be the number size for that rod bearing. Next you to convert the number to a color size. The conversion is: #1= blue #2=black #3=brown #4=green, and #5=yellow. When you have determined the color, you can order the correct P/N using TC's post with the P/N's in it. You will see what the colors mean then. The cost will be over $25 according to the pricing TC provided. If you want to save a few bucks, I have a complete set of con rod bearings, and I can sell you a set for $15 plus shipping. Interested? PM me if you are.

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          • #20
            Well,

            When I did my topend job, I didn't use any piston ring compressor, just my fingers and fingernails, and I'm NO TOUGH GUY!! I had the jugs slightly slanted, and I had the 2-3 piston set up, and inserted 2 first. The bottom of the jugs had a nice taper cut into them, so along with oiling the pistons, rings, and the jugs real well, I just compressed the rings, and slide the jugs down onto the piston, 2 and 3, then was able to slide them down onto 1 and 4, again, having the jugs slightly slanted enabled me to work with 1 cylinder at a time....ALL BY MYSELF! Not bragging, just wanted to offer another possible approach!
            T.C.
            T. C. Gresham
            81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
            79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
            History shows again and again,
            How nature points out the folly of men!

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