Timing indicator plate

[osmosis4b]

so I removed the tesioner, and cleaned it well. it had spring tension pushing it out the entire time i was removing it, so I dont think that that was the problem. The rubber pad was in good shape and didnt show signs of wear of fatigue. the plate that the boot sits against, moves freely against the chain. Is there and easy test/fix for valve noise. Others helping with the progress think it is coming fom cylinder #1. I dont thing it is a bearing. It is still pretty loud.

[randy]

it had spring tension pushing it out the entire time i was removing it, so I dont think that that was the problem

Ah!

That in fact is not right. The lockbolt on the tensioner should have held the plunger in place as you removed it, so you shouldn't have had spring tension pushing it out.

What you may be hearing is the cam chain rattling because the tensioner is not locking. While you have it out, take it apart and check the threads in the tensioner body and verify that the lockbolt and locknut do their job.

[Ken Talbot]

Yes, you've nailed it. The plunger needs to lock in place against the cam chain. The tensioner spring is way too weak to push hard enough to keep the chain tight.

The tensioner bolt hole in the housing is probably stripped. A small heli-coil will make it better than new

[osmosis4b]

nice catch guys, that makes good sense, if it isn't holding when I removed it, it probably isnt holding when installed. I dont remember if the adj. screw was tight or not when I removed it. I will dissassemble/check this again when I get home. I finally got it quiet enough to ride, but it seemed quiter before I started this adventure.

[skids]

You probably saved a valve job if your caught a stripped tensioner in time...

Originally posted by osmosis4b
nice catch guys, that makes good sense, if it isn't holding when I removed it, it probably isnt holding when installed. I dont remember if the adj. screw was tight or not when I removed it. I will dissassemble/check this again when I get home. I finally got it quiet enough to ride, but it seemed quiter before I started this adventure.

[osmosis4b]

had some other drama to deal with last night... will post update tonight

[osmosis4b]

so, the lockbolt held the tensioner ok, but the noise remains... so I loosened the tesnioner from the motor by turning both of the allen head bolts(with the nut locked), there was no spring tension pushing it out. I took it the rest of the way out, took the plunger out, and inspected the clamping point. It looks like a quite a few adjustment clamp marks all along the entire length of the piston clamping area. When reinstalling it, I followed the procedure like stated, but I left the two allen head bolts loose by about a turn and a half each, when I released the adjustor bolt, the piston and spring put tension outwards against the allen head bolts. I then locked it in place and tightened the allen the last turn. I did this to tighten the chain a little bit more than just the spring itself could give. The bike is quieter, but still has a distinct ticking noise coming from cylinder 2. It may have always been present, and is not too obvious, (cant hear it with a helmet on, but can hear it pretty well without) Not to often you get to ride without a helmet in CA, so I might not have noticed it before. Does anyone else's bike have a slight ticking noise all of the time. my Virago makes a ticking noise also, but it was given to me with "problems"and I figured that was one of them, but now I am beginning to wonder if these bikes just make a little noise.

PS now the bike is quite the fuggin carbs are leaking again..

[Geezer]

It could have a little piston slap on #2 cylinder. If it goes away above 1500 RPM, that's probably it.

More likely is you need a new cam chain and a valve adjustment.

Geezer

[DiverRay]

I agree, My '79 makes a little valve noise, and I can sometimes hear it with the helmet on.
On your carbs, get the PartsNMore needle/seat & bowl gasket kit for all 4 carbs. Replace averything, and check the clearance between the floats and the SIDE of the bowls. If the float is set a little high, you will leak on the side stand. I usually park my bike on the center stand for this reason.
Ray

[osmosis4b]

Geez, It does go away with RPM... or maybe the wind noise drowns it out . So "piston slap", what is this? Do I need to worry about it? I have read the procedure for chain replacement... doesnt sound enjoyable.


Diver, I took your advice and ran a few cans of Berrymans through full strength on an empty tank. Put it on the center stand and I ran it dry on reserve poured both cans in and restarted it. I let about half of the stuff burn run through and shut it off let it sit overnight. It was pretty warm when I shut if, so I am hoping that would help break stuff up. I ran the other half of the tank out the next morning. It stopped all leaks for about 4 full tanks, then started leaking again. I know the rebuild is inevitable, I am just procrastinating. I have been shutting off the petcocks as a backup, but those are not doing the job anymore either. I am rebuilding them tonight, as the bike has dripped itself empty, and they are easy fixes compared to the carbs.

[Geezer]

Originally posted by osmosis4b
Geez, It does go away with RPM... or maybe the wind noise drowns it out . So "piston slap", what is this? Do I need to worry about it?

I ment goes away with RPM when the bike is on the center stand. Anyway piston slap is the piston rocking in an over sized bore. If it's slight, don't worry about it. If it's loud, you may need a top end job.

More likely though, is you need to adjust the valves. One probably has too much clearance and is ticking. This too goes away with RPM and that's why you do this first...

Geezer