engine flush and what oil

[wingnut]

Old days

Back before all the comercial flushes we used kerosene or varsol in old engines. Would not do it to the bike though, don't know how the clutches would react

[Geezer]

The reasoning behind flushing engines in the first place from the use of cheap oils in cars with hydraulic lifters that have been run way to long between oil changes plug up the Hydraulic lifters. Then they don't pump up properly and make noise. By this time fixing the engine is a crap shoot so some risk flushing the engine. If you have an engine like this (I don’t recommend this, but it works) dump a quart of automatic transmission fluid in with the motor oil. Run it until it’s up to operating temp then change the oil as usual.

Any solvent that cleans that case will potentially damaged the crankshaft and connecting rod bearings. It's just not worth the risk. It’s your bike do, as you like…

Geezer

[bandet01]

ok sounds good i will just change the oil like normal and ride alittle will and go to the track run the piss out of it and when i get home or before the next ride change the oil again and do that a few times to clean the engine out

so 20 -50 is the right weight of oil to run

[mason79]

i just changed my oil, i guess cheap 20-50 change more often is flush enough, i put in 350 miles since my first oil change from the (carb induced, gas in the motor syndrome, when i first got the bike 6 weeks ago, been having a blast though) and the oil was black, but no clutch slipping...

darn oil filter bolt gave out like many of you folks, can't get it off, read some old thread, another project...

that'll make me change the oil again....goooood.

i'm going to return the berryman, since reading this perfect timing don't flush thread, thanks a gain...

[Geezer]

Originally posted by mason79
darn oil filter bolt gave out like many of you folks, can't get it off, read some old thread, another project...

Drill an indent in the face of the bolt head, insert the end of a punch leaning into the direction of rotation and tap with a hammer. It'll only take a few wacks and it'll start to turn. It's easier with an air hammer but not required.

You may need to drill a second dimple to finish the job but once it starts to turn, a vicegrip usually is enough to finish removing the bolt.

I need to get customer's bikes finished so I can install my spin on adapter. I've been admiring it's construction just sitting there on my coffee table for the last several months...

Geezer

[mason79]

Originally posted by Geezer


Drill an indent in the face of the bolt head, insert the end of a punch leaning into the direction of rotation and tap with a hammer. It'll only take a few wacks and it'll start to turn. It's easier with an air hammer but not required.

You may need to drill a second dimple to finish the job but once it starts to turn, a vicegrip usually is enough to finish removing the bolt.

I need to get customer's bikes finished so I can install my spin on adapter. I've been admiring it's construction just sitting there on my coffee table for the last several months...

Geezer

so i dont over do it again, is it because i have over tighten the bolt or is it just prone to freeze up from the heat and the size /design of the bolt(12mm) is too small to begin with?

[Geezer]

Crappy 12 point sockets will round them off every time and never use an open ended wrench on one.

Go out and buy a Snap On 6 point 12mm socket and save it for just this job and replace the bolt every third oil filter.

Do this and you'll never round one off again.

A larger bolt head would give a larger margin for error but it's not required.

Geezer

[Ken Talbot]

Ya, whoever came up with the bright idea of a 12mm bolt for the oil filter cover should have had his a$$ kicked a few times. When you have this apart, take it to a welder and have a honking big nut welded on over top of the 12mm and be done with the problem forever.

[GNEPIG]

.. Yeah, what Ken said!.
i've had to do the "weld on the bigger nut" thing on three bikes now, never have problems after. just dont over torque with the new leverage of the larger size bolt head

[mason79]

Originally posted by GNEPIG
.. Yeah, what Ken said!.
i've had to do the "weld on the bigger nut" thing on three bikes now, never have problems after. just dont over torque with the new leverage of the larger size bolt head

should the nut sit flush and the id enough to encircle the 12mm head?

[prometheus578]

Yes.

[randy]

just dont over torque with the new leverage of the larger size bolt head

You can't over-tourque if you're using a torque wrench!