ARRGHHH Carburators

[DiverRay]

Bauer,
You need to REMOVE the lower half of the air box, then move the upper half by taking out the mount screws, just the 3 on the frame, and pry the top mount off the tab and move the box down and back.
That will give you plenty of room to get the carbs in and out, and it isn't hard.
Ray

[knewsom]

My advice? keep shutting off the gas for awhile, and when you get the parts you're gonna need, take a weekend, pull the carbs, take them apart (all the way), clean EVERYTHING SUPER GOOD, let dry, reassemble with new gaskets and float valve seats.

Sure, it'll take all weekend to do all this and re-sync the carbs, BUT, you won't have to keep pulling the carbs over and over until all the gunk is out - who knows? maybe your needles need a scrubbin' too - I'd be willing to bet they do if one of the bowls was all full of gunk... and if that bowl was full of gunk, then there's probably gunk all over the place in there. Go to partsnmore, buy the rebuild kits, and have fun fun fun.

...anyhow, that's what I'M in the middle of doing - a one weekend project turned into a two week project because some @sshole stole my parts off my doorstep!

good luck man!

-Kris

[knewsom]

PS: if you're not now using fuel filters, start.

[Bauer]

Ray, I did remove the bottom of the box, I slid the box backwards, with both inlet and motor side sleeves free, im still bending the rubber sleeves to free the carbs. I have removed it EXACTLY as the clymers instructs to do so.

I do believe I have fixed it, I disassembled the carbs and cleaned all float bowls and floats, replaced the bowl screws with allen head bolts so I dont have to worry about stripping screw heads anymore. After 6 hours, I do not have a leak so knock on wood I think im safe for a little while longer.

Knewsom, I have the petcock filters, but not inlines, I dont like how tacky the inlines look.

[knewsom]

I hear ya, but they're not so bad if you hide them inbetween yer carb boots.

I'm also thinking about trying to fine a purdy chrome inline filter to use.

[skids]

Alllen heads are great, but it is easier to strip the threads in the carb bodies. Don't ask how I could know that!

Originally posted by Bauer
replaced the bowl screws with allen head bolts so I dont have to worry about stripping screw heads anymore.

[Ken Talbot]

Don't believe everything you read

Originally posted by Bauer
I have removed it EXACTLY as the clymers instructs to do so.

There's the source of your problem - the Clymer's procedure sucks. Before step 12, you need to crank the metal bracket that shows in figure 9 on page 145 forward, and force it down under the tab it bolts onto. That will let you drop the top of the airbox down as well as backwards. The velocity stacks will drop right off of the carb bells and you'll have room to pull the carbs rearward, diagonally of course.

[DynamiteD]

Hi All!!

I bought my 80' XS11 SE about 3 months ago, and I love it!!

Having said that, I should say that I have the same fuel leak issue as you guys. However, i have the Uber solution.

I pulled the air box, inspected the carbs, and found the source. #1 carb diaphram is sticking in almost wide open position. My solution is to replace all the diaphram springs(cause my clicky-top pen spring has more tension..lol). I checked the bore and diaphram, and found no knicks or anything that would interfere w/ travel. So I think it will work......What do Y'all think??

P.S.
I'm glad I found others that also see the true beauty in these bikes!! See you on the road....L8rZZ!!

[DynamiteD]

Real Quick!!!!!


Fuel Cock LEAKING?????

replace this part.
www.bikebandit.com
part#34277-001

[John]

The diaphragm sticking should have nothing to do with the flooding problem. That would be the float needle and seat causing that problem. The diaphragm sticking would affect the acceleration, but not cause flooding. Remove the diaphragm and needle and clean the metal parts and the carb body with carb spray. That should take care of the slide sticking. Then place the diaphragm over a lit flashlight, to check for pin holes/tears.

[eleven_special]

I have had this same experience sadly more than once.Since I have always turned off the petcocks just in case.When I bought the bike the original in tank filters had been replaced with in-line filters.without in tank filters with reserve/on/prime settings to be selected by the petcock,the carbs are fed by prime even a float having a "bad day" will cause this problem.I corrected mine with
in tank original filters.The octopus vacuum should eliminate this in on or reserve positions but there is no law saying the vacuum valve cannot stick open a bit.It is possible to get the bowl off number four or number one(the others being a challenge) with carbs in place and lift up on the float to see if it shuts fuel off but this won't eliminate a perforated brass float nor are you able to actually do the repair if needed.Shut the petcocks off after every usage and get rid of in line filters if you have them.

[Lamric]

Fuel Cock LEAKING?????

Even Quicker !

For now, open up the fuelcock and flip the 4 hole rubber washer over, they tend to wear on one side. While you are in there, carefully bend the wavy washer so it gives a little more pressure on the rubber.

Here's a worn washer.

[missinglink]

OK, here's a dumb question. How do you turn the petcocks "off"......now stop laughing....
really, There is a "prime" position which I assume is a straight shot to the tank, a "on" position which allows the vaccuum to activate the flow and a "prime" position which gets the last drop along with all the sludge in the bottom of the tank.... I have always left mine in the "on" position thinking if the engine is not running the fuel from the tank will be shut off.

[missinglink]

and a "prime" position which gets the last drop along with all the sludge in the bottom of the tank....

I mean - and a "Reserve" position.

Told you I was confused....

[DiverRay]

If you have a STANDARD, there is NO OFF. The vacum is suppossed to shut the fuel off. You can but rebuild kits for the standard petcocks, and they work well. I ordered mine from an online company, and I think they were only about $15.00 each.
The special has an OFF, ON, and PRIME on the fuel petcocks. They have a vacume shut off on Carb #2, but a lot of people on this forum have removed them, and use the OFF feature when parked.
Ray