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XJ engine removal and reinstallation/Starter Clutch

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  • #31
    bolts

    yep - had all the bolts.. I think the crank was stuck in the lower half - good tip on that one. I just drove a wedge into the 1/8" space between the case halves (where the crankcase doesn't seal - the inside of the ignition area). Then I tapped the crank down with a rubber mallet. Took quite a bit of tapping and adjusting the wedge but finally it came apart.

    Thanks for all the tips guys. This forum is great!!

    Now, I just have to figure out how to diagnose the starter clutch. See new thread if interested.....

    Tom B.

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    • #32
      The starter clutch? Or something else?

      Well, I couldn't find my previous post on starter clutch repair - I must have had it under something else...

      Anyway, I've been working on tearing the engine apart to get at what I suspected was the starter clutch. The bike has made a squeeling noise (like metal on metal) at start-up a few times last year and this year it didn't stop. It actually killed the bike once, which was my que to stop ignoring the issue.

      The question I have for people who've worked on the starter clutch before is: Now that I have the starter clutch ass'y out of the engine, how do I diagnose it if the rollers aren't the obvious problem? The Clymers manual says for inspection of the assembly in chapter 4, page 100, #4 and 5 (and I quote)....

      #4 "Install the bushing and starter gear into the starter clutch assembly and slide it onto the primary shaft."

      #5 "Spin the assembly fast clockwise, and stop the starter gear suddenly. The clutch body should continue spinning momentarily. Repeat the operation, spinning the assembly clockwise. The clutch body should stop at the same time as the gear. If either of these tests fail to perform correctly, the roller mechansim is at fault".

      When I do these tests, it works per the specs. The part I don't get is the "repeat operation, spinning the ass'y clockwise - the body should stop...) If you read the first sentance and then this one, aren't you doing the same thing to determine if the rollers are bad - or am I misinterpreting?

      This seems to be what everyone is telling me "should" be the problem - the rollers. But - they look ok... The spring "plungers" look ok, the springs look ok... The only thing I noticed is that one spring seems very slightly weaker than the others. May be due to the plunger binding or possibly a weaker spring - I dunno.. Anyway, I'm having a hard time convincing myself that this alone could cause the very loud noise and ultimately kill the enine. Since that day, by the way, the bike hasn't started again - and it's always been a good starter.......

      So - if anyone has any other thoughts, I'm all ears. Of course I'll be replacing those rollers, plungers and springs now that I'm there but I just can't see that being the big issue...

      I would be glad to post some photos of my work in this area for the tech tips once I figure out what's wrong. If someone can tell me how to post..

      Sorry for the length..
      Tom B.

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      • #33
        .. look for a crack in the starter clutch housing somewhere

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        • #34
          Now that the starter is out of the picture, have you taken out your plugs and rotated the engine with the bolt under the left sidecover while in gear to make sure everything else is loose and smooth sounding? Could something have let loose in the clutch?


          Tod
          Try your hardest to be the kind of person your dog thinks you are.

          You can live to be 100, as long as you give up everything that would make you want to live to be 100!

          Current bikes:
          '06 Suzuki DR650
          *'82 XJ1100 with the 1179 kit. "Mad Maxim"
          '82 XJ1100 Completely stock fixer-upper
          '82 XJ1100 Bagger fixer-upper
          '82 XJ1100 Motor/frame and lots of boxes of parts
          '82 XJ1100 Parts bike
          '81 XS1100 Special
          '81 YZ250
          '80 XS850 Special
          '80 XR100
          *Crashed/Totalled, still own

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          • #35
            inspection of starter clutch and other...

            The starter clutch housing looks ok. The book says to check the slots in the housing. One of the slots is elongated and dented in while the others are nearly round (these are the slots on the edges of the housing). I'm basically going through all bearings and checking them for that familiar noise or any excessive friction. I'm wondering about the clutch as well. The noise was coming from under the clutch cover but you could hear it on both sides. The primary shaft side cover is where you could here it oposite the clutch cover. I'm also going to replace the clutch lever bearing inside the clutch cover. The balls are all there, but maybe there's something messed up with them? I'll take apart today to take a look.

            The big question is on the primary shaft... The book says to inspect the damper cams on the primary shaft. Should these rotate freely? They don't. They hardly rotate at all. Maybe 1/8" back and forth with a lot of force.

            The Hyvo chain looks ok. The gears and splines look ok..

            Still looking.

            Tom B.

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            • #36
              Hey Tab,
              One of the slots is elongated and dented in while the others are nearly round (these are the slots on the edges of the housing).
              Looks like you found the BINDING problem from this description. As you said, ALL of the slots should be even and smooth, so it looks like you developed irregular wear on one, which contributed to that pinch rollor NOT releasing properly!!

              The bearings inside the engine clutch cover are probably not bad. They don't engage against the throwout bearing until you actually depress the clutch lever. No need to give yourself more work than necessary.

              I'm not familiar with the damper cam, but sounds right, it's not supposed to turn much, just enough to "DAMPEN" the impact/torque affect from the crankshaft, so it's probably alright!
              I'll try finding your previous thread and merge this with it!

              ** I found it, was first about pulling engine, I also merged your "splitting cases" thread as well, since they all tie together!
              T.C.
              T. C. Gresham
              81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
              79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
              History shows again and again,
              How nature points out the folly of men!

              Comment


              • #37
                Topcat

                Since the bearings inside the housing look ok, you're suggesting the housing is worn, causing the binding? Just want to be sure I have that straight. Seems to make sense. I did remove all the rollers, springs and plungers to check em out. Now I probably don't have them in the same spot. I'll check to see if the binding is where the elongated slot is.

                Thanks,
                Tom B.

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                • #38
                  Hey Tom,

                  That worn slot probably caused one of the pinch rollers to get caught at a slight angle, and get binded, and not release fully!

                  So, along with a new case, you'll probably want to replace the sleeve, along with the pinch rollers, and springs and pushrods.

                  Take your time putting it all back together, and good luck!
                  T.C.
                  T. C. Gresham
                  81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
                  79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
                  History shows again and again,
                  How nature points out the folly of men!

                  Comment

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