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**TopCatGr58** · 06-29-2005, 09:43 PM

Hey Josh,

Okay, Old Bike Barn is another onlinen parts store, see parts list below for petcock and carb rebuild kits below.

Secondly, I'm assuming you mean Piston Rings? Unless you have already measured and found that your cylinders are within tolerance to allow you to use OEM sized rings with just rehoning the cylinders, then you'll probably need to go to an oversize ring and piston combo. And you're in luck in that they are still available thru Bike Bandit as well as Yamaha, in the 2nd and 4th oversizes only!! Again, see below for parts #'s and prices!

Looking at the parts fiche for your machine, you DO HAVE a cam chain tensioner mounted on the back side of the engine, looks like an adjustable bolt on the plunger, so I would think that you DO have to adjust it, but I don't have that manual or experience with your particular model?!

I don't think Rubber cement has the hi temp tolerances like RTV, so would suggest using RTV!

What's the redline rpm limit on your engine, if it's near 9 or 10k, then running a steady 7k shouldn't be a problem. Our XS11's are only 8.5k, but many folks have run theirs close to or over the 7k range for many many miles without any problem!

Can't help with the YICS, or the Dyno Jet kit! Essentially almost any aftermarket exhaust system is more flowing than the OEM's!
Not sure why you asked about V&H systems, Only have found Mac and Jardine systems for the XJ750??

Old BIke Barn
Category: Air, Oil and Fuel | Part: Carb Rebuild Kits | OBB Part #: 48-1975
Description:
Carb Rebuild Kit. Includes: Float bowl Gasket, O-Rings, Float Needle, Seat Assy.

$14.95 ea
Applications: Yamaha XJ650, XJ750

Yamaha Petcock Rebuild Kit $28.95
2554 | Category: Air, Oil and Fuel | Part: Petcock Rebuild Kits | OBB Part #: 20-0021
Description:
Fuel Petcock rebuild/Repair kit. Contains enough parts to rebuild 1 petcock.... Details >>

Applications: Yamaha XS400 E/F/2F/G/H 78-81, XS400 SG/SH 80-81, XJ700 S Maxim 86, XJ750

Bike Bandit piston/rings parts lists
5: PISTON 2 O/S 0.50
(2ND O/S 0.50MM) (ALTERNATE PART) 297567-001 $71.69
5: PISTON 4 O/S 1.00
(4TH O/S 1.00MM) (ALT. PART) 297568-001 $71.69
6: PISTON RINGSET STD
(STD) (U.R.) 297560-001 $38.12
6: PISTON RINGSET 2ND
(2ND O/S) (ALTERNATE PART) 297562-001 $38.12
6: PISTON RINGSET 4TH
(4TH O/S) (ALTERNATE PART) 297564-001 $38.12

I'm pretty sure the prices for Pistons are EACH, but not sure if the ring sets are for all 4 cylinders or just 1 piston, since each piston requires 2 comp and 1 three part oil ring as a "SET"??

Pull your #2 plug, if it's dry, then it's carb, if it's wet, then probably ignition! Hope this helps!

**joshlikessurfin** · 07-01-2005, 11:37 AM

Thanks for the quick reply. I have already gotten the RTV sealant and will order those parts as soon as I can access the page.

Now, if I go to an oversize piston ring combo, can I just rehone the cylinders to make it fit?
How much does rehoning usually run?
Forgive my ignorance, but I read in the manual that it is a good idea to change your rings every time you replace your engine gaskets, so other than that I don't really know the next step.
I am guessing I should check my tolerances like you said and decide where to go from there.

Yeah my bike red lines at about 9500 so I think I'll be ok.

Thanks again T.C. for the detailed part information. I have been searching for a long time for these parts.

I'll have to give my bike a rest this weekend, cause I'm going out of town. Luckily I'll be able to play with my brothers XJ 1100 after the 6 hour drive. We hope to sink up his carbs.

**LoserShoes** · 07-08-2005, 11:25 AM

If you'r not burning/using oil, or have a bad compression test, there is no reason to replace the rings. In fact if there is a significant ridge at the top of the cylinder you will end up breaking the new rings without a proper honing of the cylinder.

Steve

**e_sloan** · 07-08-2005, 08:28 PM

For the YICS check out http://plan9.dnsalias.org:88/xj/products/YICS-R.html

**TopCatGr58** · 07-09-2005, 09:44 AM

Josh,
I was on vacation=delayed response! With Oversized rings and pistons, you'll need to have the cylinders BORED by a machine shop! Can run $40.00+ per cylinder! But like LoserSHoes stated, if your comp readings are good, and not burning oil, then you probably don't need to replace the rings!
Good luck with the work!
T.C.

**joshlikessurfin** · 07-11-2005, 11:39 AM

still working on it

Thanks for all your replies guys. I checked my spark and that seems to be fine. Actually brighter than the others (maybe the plug is less worn)
So i guess the problem is my carb. I can't really check the float level until I get that striped screw off, and I thought I cleaned the jets pretty good. I am just gonna take a guess and say I should re clean and check the fuel level on this carb to try and get my #2 firing.
I made a homemade vacuum gage, but it seems like it would be a bad idea to sync the carbs with only three cylinders working consistently.
T.C. you mentioned my Vance and Hines exhaust. It came with the bike. Looks like one of the P.O.'s just welded it onto a 4-1 connection.
Also I am thinking of taking a dent out of my tank. I have several ideas.
1.) is sticking a blunt object inside and trying to bang the dent out. Then smooth it out with bondo.
2.) is drilling a hole and pulling at the dent, then smooth it out
3.) is just covering it with bondo.
(I kind of want to pop that dent out to get back my that lost fuel storage space)
Oh yeah, I'm think I'm just gonna leave my cylinders alone for now. (No new rings)

**prometheus578** · 07-11-2005, 06:06 PM

"Some" dents can be taken out by "Hot gluing" a stick to the tank and then yanking. Heat the glue with a hair dryer to remove.

**joshlikessurfin** · 07-30-2005, 10:42 AM

still at it

Thanks. The hot glue tip worked great. Now I just need to finish the painting. (I ground down my tank to bare metal) I have all kinds of upgrades I need to do. I am putting on a dynojet kit and indy filters. Hopefully it is all for the better.

If you guys have some input, I have some more questions:

My bike is sometimes reluctant to start, but when I put down the kick stand and lift it back up it starts right away. Electrical proably, but why?

My bike feels like it slipping in high rpm, but it also sometimes slips into neutral from 1st. Is this a clutch problem, gears or both?

Sill looking for a petcoak repair kit...

Any help is appreaciated
thanks.

**Bill** · 07-31-2005, 10:31 PM

Sticky for XJ guys?

Hey TC!

A couple of months ago I bought an XJ700 and joined the ranks of XJ owners. I searched around and found a couple of great XJ groups online.

Since XJ owners land here at XS11.COM pretty regularly, do you think you could put a sticky under "Other Bike Discussion" to point them in the right direction?

There are several XJ groups, but these two are the best I've found.

Micapeak e-mail list
http://www.micapeak.com/lists/xj-owners

XJ (on YahooGroups)
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/xj/

Thanks!

**JBCahill** · 09-28-2005, 12:12 PM

Hello,

New to this site, and a member at some others. Have appreciated the tech talk a lot, as I am a "re-entry" rider from too long ago.

Was hoping someone had ended up answering Josh's questoin about slippage from 1st gear. I'm having the same problem on my week-old purchase of an '81 XJ 750. It is somewhat intermittant and only happens from 1st gear, but I'm unclear which direction to pursue and rusty in my experience.

So, does anyone have any ideas on the slippage issue? Hope so.

**joshlikessurfin** · 10-14-2005, 02:15 PM

Rotor problem now (And answer to slippage)

To answer your Question about slipage:, the problem was my clutch. I got the new disks at partsNmore and now it works just fine.

Help!!!!
Can someone help me? My bike won't run! No spark and the lights die when I push the start button. I started losing power slowly before it finally died for Good. Well, I can get the bike to turn over when I hook up a battery directly to the starter siliniod, but not luck other wise.

My Question: If the resistance in my stator is around 9 ohms (twice the suggested 3.6-4.4 ohms) does that mean I found my problem, or would this resistance just result in a less that optimum spark rather than compleate failure.

-Josh

**JBCahill** · 10-14-2005, 05:17 PM

Thanks for the followup on the slippage issue. I can hope that's my problem, instead of diving ALL the way into the transmission. For now I have to live with it, since I don't want to tear it all down just yet.

Unfortunately, I don't think I have an answer to your question. My Haynes manual suggests it could be a fuse in the starter circuit, or else poor ignition system connections or faulty starter (suggested by the higher resistance you've observed) or else a faulty tci ingniter...

Hope this is useful...

JBC

**Geezer** · 10-14-2005, 09:11 PM

Back in the day, there was only one YICS block off tool available from Yamaha. I'd say it's the same...

Geezer

**CTSommers** · 11-07-2005, 06:38 PM

One of the best upgrades to do is upgrade the front fork springs with progressive springs. This should get rid of that noticeable softness. I have not done this yet with my XJ750 Maxim but people that have said it makes a huge difference in how the bike handles. Easier turn in and better control. Also been told it takes away that uneasy feeling in rain groves. Waiting for these parts to come in the mail
While your doing this I would also replace the stock steering head. If you still have stock steering head bearings then you should replace them with tapered roller bearings, which are stock on almost all new bikes, because they are better and last alot longer. Better as in the bike is alot easier to control. I think K & L make a kit for are bike that goes for around 60 bucks. The progressive front springs go for 100 at Oldbikebarn.com but at Maonline.com they go for 50. If you need any help in finding these parts i know where to find them on the web.

Smooth Steering Bearings $59.95 http://www.oldbikebarn.com/part.php?...playPerPage=10 Smooth Motorcycle Tapered Steering Bearing Conversion kits. Superior to OEM Quality. 10 Times to contact area, and less Flex. Designed as a drop in replacement for the original bearing. The Kit is complete with upper and lower tapered bearing races.
$59.95

Your exhaust system options are Jardine, Mac, VANCE & HINES and last of all if you can find a set is Kerker. This is the best price I have found for the Jardine Classic chrome 4 into 1 chrome muffler part number J8758 Price $314 http://www.motorcyclemart.com/model/...amaha750xj.htm They usually sell in the 400 range
Mac 4-1 Chrome XJ650 Maxim 80-83 / XJ650L Midnight Maxim 81 / XJ650R Seca 82 / XJ750 Maxim 82-83 / XJ750M Midnight Maxim 83 / XJ750R Seca 81-83 Price: $259.25
http://www.motorcycleproshop.com/det...uct_id=04-0401
VANCE & HINES STREET MEGAPHONE SYSTEMS 4- INTO- 1 $300 XJ750R SECA 81-82 CWV15021 I forget where I saw this. I keep a list of all parts that I may want to buy in the future so as to get the best price.

Last off if your shopping at Old Bike Barn you may want to try http://yamaha-factoryparts.com/ they are always cheaper then old bike barn. Also check out http://s7.invisionfree.com/XJOWNERS/index.php?act=idx for advice

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HELP with XJ 750 (YICS and much more)

HELP with XJ 750 (YICS and much more)

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