If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
There is a Yamaha Technical Bulletin that covers the starter shim mod. Basically, you remove the remove the motor portion of the starter, leaving the gear set on the engine, and install three shims between the motor and gear set to provide a little more clamping power on the gears. This keeps them from spinning and in most cases cures the "chunk-a-chunk" on startup. The only catch is I don't know if the shims are available thru Yamaha any longer so you may have to match some up. I prefer to remove the ring gear and plate and have the two pieces welded together. This fixes it once and for all.....You also will want to check the intake manifolds for cracks. This is a very common problem on the older Viragos ( 700 thru 1100) and makes them hard to start, exasperating the starter problem.
The problem with the starter is that the throw-out gear, on the starter motor, is too far from the fly wheel.
When new it works fine but as things age the TO gear starts to hit the flywheel, rather than mesh with it. Over time the gear wears and the space gets even bigger. After a while the gear, now narrower than it used to be, starts to slip out as it turns the flywheel. Eventually, it wll hardly stay meshed at all, and starting becomes a hit and miss operation.
Very annoying when you try to impress the cutie watching you start your bike...
Mine (on my first virago 750) started to go at around 40,000kms, and I fixed it at about 60,000kms. My last Virago 750 showed no signs of the issue at 37,000kms.
Yep, I'm all over this one, having been a certified Yamaha/Honda mechanic for 16 years and having worked on hundreds of Viragos. The slipping problem can lead to some wear on the throwout gear and flywheel but the problem starts with the starter reduction gearset slipping within the motor housing. In a few rare cases, the throwout gear needs to be replaced but the problem will never be solved until you fix the reduction gear issue.
Hey guys,
Thanks for the info.I bought a new four brush starter and I still want to replace the "throwout" gear.I am having a problem getting the rotor off,but it feels like it is worn too.Anyway I would like to at least inspect it before I put this thing back together.I just want to fix it so I have it fixed well.Do you guys think I should weld the starter clutch on my new starter?
Hi tarzan,
By welding the clutch you will have no over-running or kick-back protection. welding may get you by in a pinch but if something then breaks off or apart then you may have a bigger eng. prob to fix.
Regards,
tdog
I just did this fix on my son’s 750 Virago by putting in a 4-brush starter and “chopper bob’s” repair kit. I did not do the flywheel repair but it works much better now.
4- brush starter requires less voltage to turn than the OEM 2-brush starter and seems to spin faster. OEM starter does have a design problem causing slipping.
The “chopper bob kit” contains a clip to tighten the tension spring around Idler#2 gear that engages the flywheel. This additional tension helps keep the gear from kicking back. Also has a shim to bring it closer to flywheel.
Both the Idler gear on this bike and flywheel were somewhat rounded and kicked out all the time. Very hard to crank long enough to start.
Seems to crank consistently now so will see about longevity.
Well I got the rotor/flywheel off.I think I'll send it off to the guy that remachines the gears.I lost one of the springs that goes between the flywheel and intermediate gear.Hopefully I can find one here in town.The flywheel does show some wear but the gear it meshes with is pretty bad(the throwout gear on the idler shaft).
RE:[ Hi tarzan,
By welding the clutch you will have no over-running or kick-back protection. welding may get you by in a pinch but if something then breaks off or apart then you may have a bigger eng. prob to fix.
Regards,
tdog__________________
'81 H
'85 XV500K]
There is no starter clutch on the older Viragos. The ring gear and the notched plate next to it are not meant to slip or spin at all. By welding them, problem solved. The throwout gear may need to be replaced in some cases if you let the starter problem go on too long...
The later Viragos, 750 and 1100, have a totally different setup. They use a traditional starter clutch under the sidecover( which often fail).
I bought one of those older ('84) Viragos with the crappy starter design that I have been attempting to fix and flip. The best fix (apparently)is to replace the left side case with one from a newer model with the solenoid type starter that pushes the gear in and holds it there with a fork, unlike the older model that relies on centrifical force, so the starter gears bounce off of each other because nothing is holding them together. I have tried this mod and the starter gears are quiet, but now I don't get a proper spark as the change in side case (from a 1000) had me changing the flywheels which may not work with the ignition unit (750). I got sick of working on it and put it back in the shed, after I finish the CB750F I'm working on I'm going to give it another try. I tried the Chopper Bob clip, and a new gear, but they didn't quiet it down enough so you could sell it. It really is a bad design that should have been recalled. Like they say the best fix is to get the bike to fire immediately so that starter is used very little, but this bike needs a serious tune up as well. Bottom line if you are offered a cheap old Virago chances are the starter system is going to sound like hell.
On the one of my 82 viragos I had to fix the starter, too.
All I did was replace the throw out gear, and put a washer behind it to hold it closer to the flywheel. I used the nylon washer that goes behind the window crank on a 72 VW beetle.
Comment