Boorrrringggg Build/Rebuild/Refres&restore

[bikerphil]

First, check your clearances and write them down. Second, remove and replace shims one at a time recording the number printed on the bottom. Now you can determine which sizes you need to buy/trade and which ones you have that can be re used in a new location. The shims are super hardened and don't wear. If it makes you feel better, you can check them with a micrometer.

[MaximPhil]

puskrat,
install the shims with the etched number down so you can still read it next time you need to check. a caliper is accurate enough to measure any that have had their numbers erased. when buying must be 29mm watch out for 29.5 mm used by some other bikes (BMW I think) as they will not fit in the bucket. Most bike shops will trade with you for a few $$
Good luck. I have seen it done It requires concentration and following the procedure to the letter. Take your time.
Phil

[puskrat]

Thanks Phils

[DiverRay]

If you can't find what you need at a shop, PM me. I keep a few around here even though I'm down to just one XS1100. I can 2 day them out to you. DO NOT BUY THE CHEAP CHINESE ONES ON EBAY!!! I've made the mistake, and had two break on me in the bike!

[puskrat]

Okay here's the deal....still dodging life to try to get the valve shyte done. Meanwhile I'm using my 'chained to desk' time for some design work. Said design work is focused on selecting a seat and developing a mounting system.
This is Dora....



What the heck is that seat? The bike is a 1980 Standard (G), and I see the bags and fairing are Venturer equipment-1981. Is that where the seat came from also? Ive been thinking it might be a midnight. The seat is too thick, too wide, and too seventies. It's like sitting on a horse and both my legs are malformed after a few minutes pushing the effer around from storage to work location etc. My vision is to put on a solo seat and a Quick Release second solo seat. After Ive done that I'll have to adjust pegs and/or install floorboards and consider alternate controls. Maybe I'll run a Mustang replacement of some kind, but at any rate I have to get this couch off my motorcycle.

[DiverRay]

If you pull the seat and look at the pan, is it plastic or steel? Plastic is aftermarket for sure. Steel may be the "touring seat" available as an option from Yamaha. If there are stickers on the bottom, it's probably Yamaha.
You will notice the seats are held on by the notch in front and 2 8mm bolts in back. There are also six round rubber pads on the seat that contact the frame or metal pads on the frame for extra support. You can send the seat off and have new foam and cover made to fit you and your riding style. This is probably the best thing to do, as the foam in your seat would be breaking down by now.

[motoman]

Okay here's the deal....still dodging life to try to get the valve shyte done. Meanwhile I'm using my 'chained to desk' time for some design work. Said design work is focused on selecting a seat and developing a mounting system.
This is Dora....



What the heck is that seat? The bike is a 1980 Standard (G), and I see the bags and fairing are Venturer equipment-1981. Is that where the seat came from also? Ive been thinking it might be a midnight. The seat is too thick, too wide, and too seventies. It's like sitting on a horse and both my legs are malformed after a few minutes pushing the effer around from storage to work location etc. My vision is to put on a solo seat and a Quick Release second solo seat. After Ive done that I'll have to adjust pegs and/or install floorboards and consider alternate controls. Maybe I'll run a Mustang replacement of some kind, but at any rate I have to get this couch off my motorcycle.

FYI that IS a Venturer seat.

[puskrat]

Thanks, Ray. Am really surprised at the condition of the foam on this piece. I guess I shouldn't be, at only 18,000 MI of course Ive had the seat off since the whole proper process but I don't remember what I saw. I have a holster maker standing by to cut me a new cover, but don't know what to do about foam. I think Gel would be a better solution the old stuff.

[DiverRay]

Do what I'm doing on my concours, 6mm closed cell neoprene and then 1.5" medium closed cell foam. Neoprene base, 1" medium, 2mm neoprene, 1/2" medium. Then shape with an electric carving knife, 1/4" open cell foam and cover.
Sit on the seat while working on it so you don't go too high for your inseam, or too hard for your a$$. It should be a little cushy but firm, and with the closed cell it will not absorb water.

[motoman]

puskrat, I just passed on that info. to ya' cause I still have my Venturer seat off my Venturer, in the closet, still new just like it came off bike when I bought bike new. I've had the Corbin seat for that model on my Venturer now for more yrs. than I can remember(CRS).

[MPittma100]

Ventured Seat

Nothing wrong with the Venturer seat. Very comfortable as is.

[puskrat]

Nothing wrong with the Venturer seat. Very comfortable as is.

Pitt, lemme tell ya. They say there's a seat for every butt and a butt
for every seat. I'm not sure which one is odd in this case (me or it, not me or you), but I'm not feelin the same affection for the Venturer seat as yourself.

[puskrat]

Woohoo. On a day off (from the paying job) I fingered out I have the parts necessary to get a headlamp into my bucket and on my bike. Slight celebration last night when it all came together. Just have to trace electricity for it. I've forced my schedule to comply, and will be valving tonight. period.

[puskrat]

Before things start turning at a rate measurable in revolutions per minute, I want to triplequadruple overthink everything. Andy's cam chain adjuster video says there should be a distinct snapping sound when the tensioner is released. There was not. Should I be concerned?

[3Phase]

Be careful with that axe, Eugene

Before things start turning at a rate measurable in revolutions per minute, I want to triplequadruple overthink everything. Andy's cam chain adjuster video says there should be a distinct snapping sound when the tensioner is released. There was not. Should I be concerned?

I don't remember where I saw it but one way to set the tensioner is to put the bike on the center stand and rotate the crankshaft clockwise to the "C" mark.

Remove the tensioner from the engine and look at the marks on the plunger from the set screw to see if there is enough adjustment left in the tensioner or if it's time to get a new cam chain.

DO! NOT! EVEN! THINK! ABOUT! TOUCHING! THE! CRANKSHAFT!

Check the little rubber coated metal seal/cup in the tensioner's nose and change it or reseal it so it won't leak.

Push the tensioner plunger all the way back in its housing, then lightly lock it in place with the set screw.

Put the tensioner back on the engine with a new gasket and torque the bolts to 86.4 in-lb (7.2 ft-lb or 10Nm / 1.0 m-kg) .

Release the set screw and you should hear the click as the plunger extends and hits the front cam chain guide.

Tighten the tensioner set screw to 51.6 in-lb (4.3 ft-lb or 6 Nm / 0.6 m-kg)

Tighten the locknut to 78 in-lb ( 6.5 ft-lb or 9 Nm / 0.9 m-kg)


NOW! you can think about touching the crankshaft and rotate it clockwise by hand a few times to make sure the cam chain didn't slip while you had the tensioner out of the engine.

Stop! if you feel any resistance at all, that'll be a piston touching a valve. It's easier to turn the crank if you remove the spark plugs but it's not absolutely necessary.