Boorrrringggg Build/Rebuild/Refres&restore

[bikerphil]

At the end of your riding season, start using REC 91 ethanol free gasoline, which should be available in your area. Also use fuel stabilizer before you put her down and you should have no problem in the spring.

[puskrat]

Lull in the action

So then....
While I'm sat here at my desk unable to wrench, my mind wanders. I've replacing eight jets and four float valve assemblies. I've cleaned the crap (and the crud) out of my carburetor bodies, scraped off gasket material and laid new gaskests down. I still am not surprised or dejected at having to pour so much of myself into this project before I even get to the rounded oil filter bolt and trying to find and diagnose any remaining problems.

I do however wonder: What happens next spring? I read about "the annual triple clean", which I then read is only necessary because of the inadequate clean and double clean. How often do I have to R/R jets and valves and how often will I run into float problems, idle screw issues, etc? In other words, how much is not owning a new bike going to set me back each year? lost time, spent money, hypertension, etc.

[puskrat]

Speaking of getting it right, Someone forgot to save his main jet washers and also forgot to order new main jet washers. He's still learning to read product descriptions on websites. I've scrounged up three washers. Funny thing is...My main jets arent seating uniformly, and the one that seats out furthest is the one without a washer! Am I wrong to assume the bottom jet surfaces should be the same distance from the carb body?

[puskrat]

You are pretty confident that you will get them right the first time.

heh.

I'm pretty confident if I don't I will look very hard for alternatives to opening them back up. Although i guess it wouldnt be easy to sell a non running machine. I'm the only one of my ilk buying bikes in this area I guess.

[bikerphil]

is it okay to put threadlocker on my bowl and/or cap screws?

You are pretty confident that you will get them right the first time.

[3Phase]

Obviously you don't want to use any of the stuff that needs a torch and a ten foot pole to touch it after it cures but be careful because you cannot just go by the color any more, you have to read the package.

You can use almost any of the low strength thread locker/sealers without any trouble. Again, read the package to see if it can take the heat and fuel exposure.

For the medium, after it cures you might need a JIS screwdriver to break it loose without wallowing out the screws or you could just get some new, non-JIS, fasteners.

Have some fun and experiment to see what you like best.

.

[puskrat]

getting obsessive about stuff. is it okay to put threadlocker on my bowl and/or cap screws?

[puskrat]

Thanks Ray

[DiverRay]

No, no lube on threads.

[puskrat]

Starting to put stuff back together. True to expectation, I am still finding failed cleaning duties as I go, but they're getting fixed. Should I lube the threads of jets, seats, diaphram cap screws or float screws? Saw it mentioned in vids, but not on this site. I trust y'all better than youtubers.

[DiverRay]

Yes, they are for later carbs, but work in earlier ones as well. The good thing about them is they are forgiving with minor defects in the seat.

[puskrat]

Um, arent the viton tips for later carbs?

[DiverRay]

You just need to verify it says "viton tip" needle.

[puskrat]

Found some from partzilla. That is, if the seats match the photos.

[motoman]

I would get the Mikuni needles! IF you look at the K&L, you will probably find each needle's spring pushes at a different rate. This is NOT what you want. Go with the viton tip Mikuni needles and use the K&L seats, or return the jetsrus parts and just get needles and use the mikes seats. Big thing is ONLY the Mikuni Needles and jets.

Totally agree with Ray! The teeny springs in the aftermarket float needles vary in compression rate, which varies each float bowl fuel level. That varience can be as much as 2mm related to actual fuel level in float bowl.