Hey guys!

[Bergman16]

I've only ever worked on a hydraulic clutch before so when I rebuilt both master cylinders and all three calipers I bled them as best I could, so that I could get a decent stop, then took it very slowly to the guy who mounted my wheels to finish the bleed and check out my new SS brake lines to make sure I could whoa along with the go. That's just me, but for a hundred dollars (new York prices) it went from squishy to tight and added a lot of confidence that I didn't have on my own.

Most here have more experience than me so that's just one perspective. I'm really glad i did.

[bikerphil]

Yes, the rear sometimes can be difficult to bleed, may be because the caliper sits higher than the MC. Before connecting the brake line to the MC, make sure to prime it (bench bleed) by putting your finger over the hole and pumping the pedal. Make sure the adjustment for the brake pedal travel (12mm nuts) is not pushing the plunger too far in, or you will never get it to bleed correctly, BTDT. There should be no more than 1/4" gap between the 2 adjusting nuts. When you do get some pedal, it may feel mushy, tie the pedal down overnight to rid the system of any remaining air. GL

[DesmoBro]

Not even getting any fluid with this vacuum purge gun ....stumped....

[DiverRay]

You NEED to "bench bleed" the rear BEFORE you can try it all connected! Remove the banjo bolt at the MC, put your finger over the bolt hole, and allow the air to escape as you push on the rear brake pedal. Seal the hole with your finger as the pedal goes back up, and repeat until you have fluid squirting out. Then re-connect the bolt/brake line and use the vacuum pump.
As Phil said, make sure the pedal isn't pushing too far! check the adjustment on it.

[DesmoBro]

Will try it again....and again....fingers crossed

[DesmoBro]

Still not there....how do i get the brake line together before the master gets air in there? ....also i took the adjustment nut off and adjusted the foot lever up and the piston still goes all the way down when i use it?

[DesmoBro]

Still no luck

So the rebuild kit for the rear master cyl came in I put it together first with one spring but everytime i pushed it in it would stick in so i had to pull it out with one of those door clip screw drivers and that got old really quick so i pulled it apart put 2 springs in there but kinda twisted them together so it wasnt too long put it together and it springs back and doesnt push all the way in which from what ive heard so far is what you want.....well long story short it still wont bench bleed and im tired of rebuilding this rear master .....ive done it all guys had the rear caliper apart cleaned it up and im just getting no where with this rear master

[aquamantx]

Welcome to the forum. love the creativity in transportation.

[DesmoBro]

....thats it gonna build up a different master and try again....

[motoman]

....thats it gonna build up a different master and try again....

Careful and use one I.D. and piston travel are the same. Larger diameter piston will soften the even larger piston diamater

[DesmoBro]

Ok so i swapped out the master cyl body and made a quick video....i may make a really really long follow up video to show what im up against as i bench bleed this thing


Enjoy

http://youtu.be/_ePfFmQ72pQ

[Rasputin]

Have you looked at the repairs section for brakes. Looks like the rubber seal is not installed correctly on that plunger in the video. Hard to see so might not be. Have a look at http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46

[Rasputin]

While this is a front brake, the same applies to the rear master. http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37209