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  • #31
    More fun Troubles for my Xterra.

    Resurrecting this thread. Well, I don't have to work on the Sister-n-law's Quest anymore. She got herself a new Kia Soul, and "GAVE" the Quest to a charity. It had started acting up again so I knew it was another injector going. Regrettably, she recently passed away from complications from a combination of long term Insulin Dependence Diabetes, Kidney failure/dialysis, and then Ischemic Bowel syndrome....she had a fall at the dialysis center, broke her hip/femur, had surgery, but when she came out from anesthesia, she was having almost continuous seizures. They did other tests/scans and finally found the perforated bowel, 2nd surgery found extensive gangrene, they removed the dead section of bowel, but the gangrene had already made it into the portal vein of the liver...she was essentially already SEPTIC! She lingered for 4 days which allowed time for her 3 adult children to come to her side, say their goodbyes, and then handled the death/funeral home details so my wife didn't have to, having just gone thru that with her younger brother this spring. She's the eldest of 3 children herself, thought she'd be the first to go!

    Anyways....I think I mentioned that after my Xterra missfire repairs, the check engine light was still on because of the Knock Sensor error. The engine is running just fine, same mpg as always, so the knock sensor isn't affecting the performance, and I would otherwise ignore it. BUT my state has vehicle inspections and won't pass it with a check engine light showing.

    I have searched and read up about them, a simple sensor that eventually dies because of it's plastic housing and that they are often mounted proximal to the engine block....get cooked with heat, crack, etc.! Well here's where I get to be angry at the engineers again....it being mounted on the engine block UNDER the intake manifold and plenum assembly. I'm NOT going to tear all of that off. I also found a few youtube videos about RELOCATING the sensor to make repeat access/replacement easier. I have found the one wire that goes to it, can view it with a mech. mirror from behind the engine between it and the firewall! The connector is supposed to be the type with the squared/ "U" Shaped wire clip. I think I can reach it with a flat blade screwdriver and get it OFF. BUT, if I can't, I'll just CUT the wire, and then reattach a new connector so that I can connect it to a NEW Sensor and then just bolt it up on top of the engine/intake manifold.

    My question is does anybody know the name of the connector, and whether I can get one at the local auto store, or have to order it online somewhere. It's only a 2 wire/2 prong connector, and one of the connectors isn't being used, apparently the sensor routes to ground THRU the sensor??

    T.C.
    T. C. Gresham
    81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
    79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
    History shows again and again,
    How nature points out the folly of men!

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    • #32
      Here yah go TC:

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d_JMJ1KRJwI
      1979 XS1100F
      2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

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      • #33
        I had a special connector that went to an oil pressure switch. There was no help dealer wanted to sell harness most in junk yard were bad too. A NAPA store helped get a number and ordered one for me. Worth a shot.
        To fix the problem one should not make more assumptions than the minimum needed.

        Rodan
        https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=khm6...liHntN91DHjHiS
        1980 G Silverbird
        Original Yamaha Fairfing and Bags
        1198 Overbore kit
        Grizzly 660 ACCT
        Barnett Clutch Springs
        R1 Clutch Fiber Plates
        122.5 Main Jets
        ACCT Mod
        Mac 4-2 Flare Tips
        Antivibe Bar ends
        Rear trunk add-on
        http://s1184.photobucket.com/albums/z329/viperron1/

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        • #34
          Thanks Ian,

          I had found that video, but I don't have sound on my laptop, so I didn't know where he got the extra connector from??

          BUT..Thanks Ron, checked NAPA, and they showed both a sensor AND the connector, and both priced less than or equal to the price of the sensor alone at the other chains, Advance, Oreilys, Autozone! And they showed them in stock, so I'll be dropping by there tomorrow on my way home from work to pick them up. Will report back progress.

          T.C.
          T. C. Gresham
          81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
          79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
          History shows again and again,
          How nature points out the folly of men!

          Comment


          • #35
            Originally posted by TopCatGr58 View Post
            Hey folks,

            Sorry to bother ya'll, but I'm in need of some diagnostic assistance with my SUV. It's a 2004 Nissan Xterra with a 3.3L V-6. It has ~140k miles on the engine. I performed the timing belt change at ~100k along with new platinum spark plugs. I also do my own oil/filter changes and other stuff, but not much has been needed. I routinely put in Generic Injector cleaner, and use good quality gas...but it IS E-10. The last fuel I put in it was from a NEW KROGER station that had just been built/open a few months ago, so their tanks should have been clean!!

            I drove the vehicle home Friday and when I arrived at home, it was idling roughly. It was on 1/4 tank....I fill it up on the weekend and run it all week long commuting to and from work, and so I know I can get whole week's worth without having to fill up until the next weekend. We did have a very cold spell the previous Wednesday where the temps got down into the teens, and I did drive it to work and back that day, as well as Thursday and this past Friday. SO...I was thinking that it might have gotten some water condensation in the tank even though it has NEVER done it before??

            I got some RISLONE combo fuel treatment cleaner/gas dryer/water dispersant and put it in with a FULL tank of fuel on Saturday at my usual fuel place, NOT the Kroger. Saturday the Check Engine light started coming on and varied from blinking to steady on and back to blinking again.

            It has a low rpm miss...very noticeable, but I can get it up to full rpm, so it's not running low/out of fuel...so I think I've ruled out clogged fuel filter or weak fuel pump. It's EFI. I drove it to work today, still behaving the same. Took it to the local Advance Auto for a Check Engine light check.....it just said that the #2 cylinder had a misfire detect: Error code P0302 and then of course the second error P0328 a Knock Sensor on the Circuit High Input Bank1....because of the misfire it's throwing the knock sensor!

            So...now I'm fishing for ideas, either other diagnostics I can do...It's RAINING tonight, so it'll be tomorrow when I can look at it.

            It has a single coil and distributor system, so it can't be the coil,but could be the cap/rotor...or the wire/plug cap.....or the plug fouled itself? Wondering if it could also be a failing fuel injector??

            Thanks in advance!
            T.C.
            Having incorrect plugs(plugs from dealer ONLY) WILL trash the individual coils! And they ain't cheap.......a few hundred bills each. Remember, ignition etc. ain't like our ole' XS11's, and could get costly if treated as such.
            81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

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            • #36
              When it rains, sometimes it hails!

              Hey Brant,

              Sorry about the OLD thread, that issue was fixed a few months ago as I showed in the thread/photos. I understand I think what you meant with regards to the spark plugs...having only used single platinum vs. double platinum?

              I picked up the new Knock Sensor and plug, but another problem cropped up. I had noticed that the car seemed to not just quickly crank to life, but seemed to crank a few more revs before it would catch. When I stopped at NAPA for the KS/connector, and went to go home, the starter barely turned enough to finally crank the engine....and right afterwards I got a whiff of that magic smoke escaping smell.....I got out, lifted the hood, etc., but nothing seen, so I went on home, but left it running. I then performed the test procedures I needed to do....checked the charging system....14.3 volts=good...and no ALT warning light! Turned engine off. Then LOAD TESTED the slightly more than 2 y/o battery....tested fine...didn't drop below 11 volts for the 300-500 CCA load test for 10 seconds!

              SO....having ruled out a weak battery, that left me with just a burning up Starter motor! So...I went to the A.Z. and got a rebuilt replacement, and also dinner! Took me ~2 hours to drop the old one, and put the new one in, so I couldn't make it back to the A.Z. for the core charge and starter test before they closed tonight. BUT, the new starter works just fine NOW.

              I'm thankful for all of the diagnostic training I've received here at Channel 11, applies to vehicles other than just our bikes!

              T.C.
              T. C. Gresham
              81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
              79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
              History shows again and again,
              How nature points out the folly of men!

              Comment

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