Hey George,
I was thinking about the wires, but like we've talked about with our bikes vs. cars, they are fairly secured/stable, and so they don't get much/any flexing, but yet I supposed the carbon fiber core can break down over the years and heat exposure.
Brant, I stated that this engine has only 1 coil, and uses a rotating distributor cap/rotor system, so I don't think the brand specific plug situation will apply since it doesn't use the coil on plug design, but I'll be pulling that plug and checking it out anyways.
Ray, what type of scan tool are you talking about? I took it to the auto parts store and had them use their error code checker, and the 2 errors I mentioned above were the only ones it showed....the misfire plug # and the knock sensor. Are you talking about a DEALERSHIP scan/computer analysis??
T.C.
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Put a scan tool on it and see what it says! They are a VERY helpful tool for the modern autos. You could have a bad injector/plug wire, and it may have taken out one of the O2 sensors. There are a few other sensors on that engine that like to go out as well. I have a friend with a 2002, and he's had to replace the cam sensors on it.
Good luck!Leave a comment:
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May wanna double check the plug reccomendations
. Majority of newer vehicles having individual coil packs require the use of plugs from the stealer, specificly. Use of any other brand/type can and will damage coil packs....and they aren't cheap
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With the new plugs, i'd suspect the insulation on the plug wires are breaking down.
Might think about replacing all of them.Leave a comment:
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HELP! Problems with AUTO
Hey folks,
Sorry to bother ya'll, but I'm in need of some diagnostic assistance with my SUV. It's a 2004 Nissan Xterra with a 3.3L V-6. It has ~140k miles on the engine. I performed the timing belt change at ~100k along with new platinum spark plugs. I also do my own oil/filter changes and other stuff, but not much has been needed. I routinely put in Generic Injector cleaner, and use good quality gas...but it IS E-10. The last fuel I put in it was from a NEW KROGER station that had just been built/open a few months ago, so their tanks should have been clean!!
I drove the vehicle home Friday and when I arrived at home, it was idling roughly. It was on 1/4 tank....I fill it up on the weekend and run it all week long commuting to and from work, and so I know I can get whole week's worth without having to fill up until the next weekend. We did have a very cold spell the previous Wednesday where the temps got down into the teens, and I did drive it to work and back that day, as well as Thursday and this past Friday. SO...I was thinking that it might have gotten some water condensation in the tank even though it has NEVER done it before??
I got some RISLONE combo fuel treatment cleaner/gas dryer/water dispersant and put it in with a FULL tank of fuel on Saturday at my usual fuel place, NOT the Kroger. Saturday the Check Engine light started coming on and varied from blinking to steady on and back to blinking again.
It has a low rpm miss...very noticeable, but I can get it up to full rpm, so it's not running low/out of fuel...so I think I've ruled out clogged fuel filter or weak fuel pump. It's EFI. I drove it to work today, still behaving the same. Took it to the local Advance Auto for a Check Engine light check.....it just said that the #2 cylinder had a misfire detect: Error code P0302 and then of course the second error P0328 a Knock Sensor on the Circuit High Input Bank1....because of the misfire it's throwing the knock sensor!
So...now I'm fishing for ideas, either other diagnostics I can do...It's RAINING tonight, so it'll be tomorrow when I can look at it.
It has a single coil and distributor system, so it can't be the coil,but could be the cap/rotor...or the wire/plug cap.....or the plug fouled itself? Wondering if it could also be a failing fuel injector??
Thanks in advance!
T.C.
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