WTF did you do to your bike?

[TomB]

I did the same, the frame had been "streetfightered" by the PO which was OK but I want it standard Sport so I can do a simple straight swap. I'd been given the back end of a 2H9 frame which in the absence of a 5K7 donor frame back end would have to do, I can cut it later to look like a Sport.




As it was all altered I decided quite a severe cut and shut was required




With a decent amount of measuring, cuts were made to both frames


Top frame tubes on the 5K7 frame were thicker walled that the donor 2H9 frame,


So stepped inside tube stubs had to be made

[alaskey2]

I was all about custom bikes until this thread came along and now this is all I see and it drives me crazy!

http://chicago.craigslist.org/nwc/mcy/4878244275.html


1982 BMW R100RT project, bought it and took the fairing, seat, etc. off to make a café racer. Just don't have the time to finish the project. The RT had 66,000 miles on it and was running great. I cut a lot of the tabs off the frame to clean it up and rebuilt the carbs. Clear title. Please see pics. for what's included. Great bike to finish up the way you want it! Frame is straight and so is gas tank, I took the pictures when the tank was loose and sitting a little sideways on the frame.

[rover]

WTF did you do to your bike

I rode it!!!!!!!!

[Buckmaster79]

Did not shut the pingles off last ride!

We had a very nice day around Christmas so I went for a 50 mile ride came
home put the bike in my bike room covered it and shut the door. Last weekend got her polished up and went to turn the key on the low fuel light came on?
It was full of aviation gas last fall when i put it away so I looked at the petcock's yes they were still in the on position. Crankcase was full.
Drained the Oil and put in new. Now my clutch slips I have Barnett Springs
and pads. Checked the adjustment and it was good.So I pulled it apart last night looks like the Barnett Pads do not like Aviation gas. I ordered new Barnett pads and plates last night.

[MPittma100]

Float Level Tests

We had a very nice day around Christmas so I went for a 50 mile ride came
home put the bike in my bike room covered it and shut the door. Last weekend got her polished up and went to turn the key on the low fuel light came on?
It was full of aviation gas last fall when i put it away so I looked at the petcock's yes they were still in the on position. Crankcase was full.
Drained the Oil and put in new. Now my clutch slips I have Barnett Springs
and pads. Checked the adjustment and it was good.So I pulled it apart last night looks like the Barnett Pads do not like Aviation gas. I ordered new Barnett pads and plates last night.

I became curious as to how/why gas starts leaking out of the carbs with the fuel left on for an extended time period. I asked - do the float valves go bad? Are the float valves unable to hold back the pressure of the gravity fed system? Just does not make a lot of sense. Why are these valves seemingly so sensitive?

I decided to do some testing:

I used a set of leaking carbs from a 1979 SF. Yamaha manual specifies float height adjustment as 25.7mm plus or minus 1mm. (24.7mm-26.7mm). The floats in these carbs were set at 24.7mm. After checking settings, installing new float valves, and cleaning carbs, I began the testing. I used a remote gas tank mounted 2 feet above the carbs. I decided to try all 3 float settings starting with the highest (24.7mm). On each test I would turn the fuel on and leave it on for 1+ days per setting. Temperatures ranged from 20-45 degrees during the test period. Testing was done outside.

24.7mm test. Within 24 hours, all four carb throats were wet with fuel. Fuel appeared to be coming from the main nozzles (up from the float bowls).

25.7mm test. Fuel was present within 24 hours in all 4 carb bodies and was coming again from the nozzles. Amount of fuel was a bit less.

26.7mm test. Performed test for 3 days - fuel on the whole time - there were no leaks. I had the carb bank tilted to simulate the angle of the bike on the stand. They remained leak free.

I have since reinstalled and synced them and rode for 80 miles. The bike performed well. There were/are no leaks.

I recommend using the 26.7mm setting and performing the leak test prior to reinstalling onto bike. Also a very good idea to put a 2X4 under the front tire when parked for extended periods so fuel (if a leak occurs) will not run into the engine, but into the air box instead. Turn the petcocks off (Specials) just to be sure. Modify the Standard petcock to be able to shut the fuel off - easily done.

[MPittma100]

Tubing Repair Procedure

Hi Ed,
typically one shoves a sleeve in there rather than a solid bar. A sleeve of the same gauge as the frame tube is ideal as a heavier wall or a solid bar would suck too much heat from the weld zone.
But surely you can find a "Bro with MIG" to glue the new end on for you?

MIG weld is a good idea. TIG weld is the best option. Procedure to join pipes is to drill holes in the outer pipe(s). Slide inner pipe into larger outer pipe and weld the holes shut. It is easier to weld when you cut the outer pipe at an angle rather than a straight cut.

[BA80]

I set my 79 carbs at 25.7 when I first went through them and had no issues for 2 - 3 years. Just the last year or so I've had flooding issues if I forget to turn off the petcocks. (Octy deleted).

Running the 110/90 front tire does the same thing as the 2x4 and the handling in curves is much improved. I don't recommend it for vertically challenged riders though.

[BA80]

MIG weld is a good idea. TIG weld is the best option. Procedure to join pipes is to drill holes in the outer pipe(s). Slide inner pipe into larger outer pipe and weld the holes shut. It is easier to weld when you cut the outer pipe at an angle rather than a straight cut.

One other suggestion. I see the section that was replaced includes the rear swing arm mounts, I see no reason for those to be cut out and replaced. It would be too easy to get the rear wheel out of alignment with the rest of the frame.

Personally I would replace only the part that was modded. It has nothing to do with wheel alignment.

[Schming]

One other suggestion. I see the section that was replaced includes the rear swing arm mounts, I see no reason for those to be cut out and replaced. It would be too easy to get the rear wheel out of alignment with the rest of the frame.

Personally I would replace only the part that was modded. It has nothing to do with wheel alignment.

Correct . . .Fourth to the last pic shows the section Tom replaced

[BA80]

Correct . . .Fourth to the last pic shows the section Tom replaced

Not seeing what you're talking about but I'm sure you know better than I do what was done.

[TomB]

Not seeing what you're talking about but I'm sure you know better than I do what was done.

Greg, I did replace only the sections that were modded, and didn't replace the swing arm mounts.


I wanted to replace only the rear frame tubes but the PO had butchered the shock mounts so I had to replace more.

[phatts27]

I'm starting to run out of steam. Custom mounting everything is a pita! If i come across anymore snags, I think welding on the correct tail section to my bike is the best bet, but I don't trust myself enough to do a good job. That's where Gordon comes in! He said he knows a great welder in his area that will make easy work out of this mess! I want to to ride NOW!

[BA80]

Patience Grasshopper.

[BA80]

https://youtu.be/KrUN7XGcDqQ

[Buckmaster79]

Always check the pan if you have a clutch coming apart.

We had a very nice day around Christmas so I went for a 50 mile ride came
home put the bike in my bike room covered it and shut the door. Last weekend got her polished up and went to turn the key on the low fuel light came on?
It was full of aviation gas last fall when i put it away so I looked at the petcock's yes they were still in the on position. Crankcase was full.
Drained the Oil and put in new. Now my clutch slips I have Barnett Springs
and pads. Checked the adjustment and it was good.So I pulled it apart last night looks like the Barnett Pads do not like Aviation gas. I ordered new Barnett pads and plates last night.

Well two pads were gone just aluminum disc and the plate in the middle was cracked so I put it all back together with Barnet and pulled the Kerker again
pulled the filter and it looked clean? So I pulled the Pan and I am glad I did
there was not much in the bottom at all but the OIL PUMP SCREEN was 85%
full of clutch fiber so took it off and parts washed the pan and screen and I
hope it will be OK I will just run 10-40 regular oil for a short time and change it again and put in " My brand of Bike Oil"