Are you being serious ian? Gorilla glue is some good stuff. I know people have used the plastidip for a year with no problems but I doubt it would work long term. I could see how it would flake off into the chambers too. Will gorilla glue work?
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Originally posted by jjz28 View Postthanks guys. I am going to order them. 2 of the 3 on the 750 had little holes in them but I am going to go ahead and get all 3. Could these cause a hanging idle? that's the problem I was having. I also have all 3 intake valves too tight and one exhaust too tight.
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Originally posted by jjz28 View PostI never synched them, just a bench synch. I have never synched the xs1100 either but it must be a lot closer cause it runs great. I just thought it was weird that I could turn all mixture screw and it didn't make a difference.'79 XS11 F
Stock except K&N
'79 XS11 SF
Stock, no title.
'84 Chevy K-10 "Big Blue"
GM 350, Muncie SM465, NP208, GM 10 Bolt with 3.42gears turnin 31x10.5 Baja Claws
"What they do have is an implacable, unrelenting presence and movement that bespeaks massive power lurking behind paint and chrome. They don't wail like a screeching ninja, the don't rumble like a harley. They just growl like a spactic, stressed out badger waiting to rip your face off and eat your soul." Trainzz~RIP~
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Originally posted by jjz28 View PostHas anyone tried the plastidip that is in the tech tips for fixing the pinholes in the diaphragms? I am going to try it. That is all that is keeping me from fixing the xs750 at this time and if it don't work, I will just get new ones. Just wondering if anyone has tried the plastidip though. THanks.
Thing that I want to say is that the gas does not come in contact with the upper side of the diaphragms. Air only gets in there due to vacuum. If the gas will penetrate the small pinhole one fixes then I guess the hole was a bit large for the fix.
It is worth a try and we would welcome back a report if you try it.2-79 XS1100 SF
2-78 XS1100 E Best bike Ever
80 XS 1100 SG Big bore kit but not fully running yet.
Couple of more parts bikes of which 2 more will live!
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The key to success using Plastidip, as in a lot of other things, is in surface preparation.
The diaphragm surface around the hole must be cleaned, Toluol is recommended, abraded, solvent cleaned again, and then a number of small light coats applied, starting on a big area around the hole, and as each coat is applied, the area being covered becoming smaller.
Think about a tire patch, thin at the edge, thicker in the middle, and try to make a simile with the Plastidip. I put a couple of coats on each side, so that the coating sticks to it's self where the hole is, and resists
coming apart, much like a grommet in a canvas.
But above all, a CLEAN, abraded surface, and not to thick.
Since all I could find was a spray can of the stuff, I sprayed some liquid into the cap, and applied the liquid with a small paint brush. By the time I got the first coat on all the holes, the first one was ready to be re-coated. Mind you, it was a warm dry day, so if you try it in your cold garage, you might want to let the coats dry longer between re-coats. When all else fails, read the directions.
CZ
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Yeah, I was serious about gorilla glue. workee great for me, as recommended by several forums I'm on.1979 XS1100F
2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.
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