Shinko tire travesty

[jwhughes3]

the phrase "once bitten, twice shy" comes to mind.

Ask Ian Hunter which tires HE buys....

John

[BA80]

I couldn't keep Dunlop 404's from eating up, so I switched to Shinko Tourmasters, and have been very happy. They bought all the tooling from Yokohama, and have improved their product ever since. I work for a Toyota dealership (parts dept.) and see bad tires no matter what the brand name says on the sidewall!

I put a set of Tourmasters on Okie and the rear barely mad it from one oil change to the next. (3000 mi.)

[Bonz]

Yeah don't get down on Shinko about this. JP cycles are the *******s in this. Nothing is perfect and if we write off a tire because of that then we're doing a disservice and not being objective and fair.

[jetmechmarty]

Since front tire cupping was mentioned, I would like to comment on that. Every tire I have ever put on the front of my XS650 or XS1100 has cupped as it wore. I switched to a Metzeler Marathon on my XS1100SG and there is no cupping. I don't believe it's the tire. I believe it's because I replaced the fork springs and did the emulator modification. One of those things changed the wear pattern. I also went from 10W to 15W fork oil. At any rate, I don't think it has anything to do with the tire.

My XS650 has the additional issue of me making chain adjustments. I have to be wary of the alignment.

[motoman]

Since front tire cupping was mentioned, I would like to comment on that. Every tire I have ever put on the front of my XS650 or XS1100 has cupped as it wore. I switched to a Metzeler Marathon on my XS1100SG and there is no cupping. I don't believe it's the tire. I believe it's because I replaced the fork springs and did the emulator modification. One of those things changed the wear pattern. I also went from 10W to 15W fork oil. At any rate, I don't think it has anything to do with the tire.

My XS650 has the additional issue of me making chain adjustments. I have to be wary of the alignment.

Depending on your riding style plays a big part in cupping of the front tire. Your front brake being the main braking action(least should be), will cause cupping, specially with a bit aggressive riding on twistiy roads. ANY pulsation from rotor/pad contact WILL cause cupping also. Radials cup front and rear....all of them, and no getting around it. Cord constuction has alot to do with that on radials. And of course, low air pressure causes the same. Interesting the 404'Flops' on my Venturer don't have cupping, but that's the 'bottom of the barrel' tire from Dunlop....it doesn't get ridden hard or far, and wouldn't with those rags for tires anyway as handling goes south if I try to push it as hard as the ST....they are what they are....round and roll. I'm sure if it was my main 'ride', it would show cupping no matter what tire was on it, and in decades past have had the top quality tires available on it.

[Barlow]

Tires

New to this forum but thought I would chip in on this subject. I have been on motorcycles 45 years. Started on dirt bikes, graduated to cruisers and am now on touring rigs. I have probably used every major brand of tires ever manufactured. Long story short, the best tire I have ever ran is no longer made. It was the Goodyear "Eagle".
Now to my point, you are right about the suspension. The cupping can be controlled with proper air pressure and the following. I run the maximum cold pressure stamped on the sidewall, 40PSI on Dunlop Elite IIs. Also I run a good heavy fork brace, not the OEM junk, and progressive springs in the forks. My fork oil in Mobil 1 Synthetic 5W30 with one ounce of the oil replaced by Lucas Oil Power Steering Stop Leak. The Lucas keeps the seals soft and extends their life span plus it helps to better lubricate the inner workings of the forks. The multi-viscosity help control the heat build up.
Nuff said.

Happy trails,
Ben

[Bonz]

Did Goodyear make an Eagle motorcycle tire? Cool, as I liked them on my car in the 80's.

I have not run a fork brace on any bike I've owned and haven't cupped a tire that was put on the bike with me as the owner. It is all about proper and consistent tire inspections and inflation, proper monunting of the wheel on the fork, etc.

5w-30 mobil 1 and power steering stop leak? How does the seal benefit from that vs being more or less immersed in oil for its entire life? How does the thinner oil/multi viscosity oil control heat build up? Do you mean it responds better to heat build up being multi viscosity? The oil is still a 5w oil, that protects an engine like a 30w, but does not become a 30 wt oil for the purposes of fork performance. It is still a thin 5w oil in terms of fork performance.

My 80G is on original fork seals from the Dec '79 manufacture date. I dont believe that anything more than regular fork fluid changes/cleaning and wiping down the fork legs is needed. I am sure there is no harm done with the combo mentioned, but the proof is in the pudding with my 80G and just about every other bike I have owned unless it was not cared for properly by the previous owner. I suspect the bike you are talking about gets regular maintenance even with the combo of fluid anyway which would lead to great seal life regardless.

What lubricating properties does the Lucas Power steering sealer additive have that helps lubricate over and above fork oil or ATF, being that it is a sealer designed to swell things?

Please don't take all the questions the wrong way.... I am interested in the info so I can be more knowledgeable, as my experience of many years as well bears out that the boutique brews of fluids do more for the owner than they ever do for the bike.

Cheers!

[Barlow]

Unfortunately some of the other brands MCs have trouble with fork seals. One of them being the first generation Yamaha Venture.
The multi-viscosity oil in the forks works much in the same way as in an engine and yes, the Lucas keeps the seals soft.
Out of the seven motorcycles that I own the youngest one is a 1986. Most of them have been barn finds and have been sitting for several years. A good percent of them have leaking fork seals which the addition of the Lucas concoction has saved be from changing them more than once. One of the bikes that I am working on now had been sitting for 9 years. The forks were dirty and covered with oil. I haven't had to change the seals yet.
Its good to hear that the XS11s don't have a seal problem. Less work for me on the 79 I just acquired.
No harm - no foul on the questions. I was just trying to pass along a little experience that might help others.

[jetmechmarty]

I am a single viscosity, straight rate spring kind of guy. No additives please. I am thrilled with the modifications I made to my forks.

I'm not saying yours don't work well, just that you will never convince me to go back!

[Bonz]

Thanks for the explanation of the Lucas supplement, makes perfect sense that it can bring old seals back to life. Thanks for that info. Dang, wish I'd heard that about a month ago when I replplaced seals on my project 80G. Isn't much of a thing to change them, but I would have tried the Lucas treatment. Still not sure how it protects better than normal oil/fluid in the fork?

I'm not getting the physics behind the multi-viscosity oil in the fork. Engine heat is what "opens up" the polymers so they protect like a 30W oil when hot, but the oil is even "thinner" (flows better) at operating temperature than when cold. With that said, I don't see how the Mobil 1 or multi vis oil in general will perform any different than the lowest number, in this case 5W. Maybe the progressive springs call for a really light oil to perform correctly? I run 15w fork oil in my SG, and ATF in the G. I have the stock air system though on both bikes, and really like the tuneability.

FWIW, I have Sonic Springs in my '01 ZRX 1200 (1.1 kg/mm) and they transformed the front end of that bike. I simply swapped springs without changing the fluid (I had done that last summer, so it was good fluid) for a back to back comparison with stock springs. Did the same thing with a V Strom 1000 I used to have, less brake dive, better feeling, all that.

[Courtney]

I have a big jug of Bardhal fork oil seal leak stop on my shelf. I put it in 20 yrs ago, and the forks are still holding air on my XS Special, and no leakage at all.

[Bellerophon]

I am running Shinkos on both my SF and FJR. They seem to be wearing at least as well as any other tires I've used, and handle as good the others too. At about 60% of the cost of most other tires, what's not to like?

[jjz28]

So, its possible to stop the leak without disassembling the forks? I would love to give that a shot. How do you add it to your forks? I know nothing about forks, don't even know how to put the fluid in. Could someone tell me how to add this stop leak to my forks. You could pm me if wanted. Thanks a lot.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Jeff,

Did you ever find Catatonic Bug's profile and go to his personal webpage and download any manuals..owner's and service?

To drain the fluid, there's a screw/bolt on the lower end/side of the fork lower slider that you remove. However, jack the front of the bike up so that the front wheel is off the ground, reduces the amount of pressure that will cause the fluid to squirt out quite a distance. Then manipulating the forks up and down will facilitate pumping out the remainder of the fluid.

Then, the large caps on the top of the ends of the upper fork tubes is what you have to remove to access them to be able to pour the new fluid into them. Folks need to loosen the upper triple tree clamps to allow the caps to be able to be loosened/removed. There's more special tips with regards to marking the caps for reinstallation to prevent crossthreading, and again jack up front wheel to relax front springs for easier cap install.

Will say that there is usually lots of junk/corrosion/slugde in the bottom of the fork tube slider that can not be adequately removed without disassembly.

T.C.

[BA80]

will say that there is usually lots of junk/corrosion/slugde in the bottom of the fork tube slider that can not be adequately removed without disassembly.

T.c.

+1.................