Sharing a few new pictures

[CatatonicBug]

I found mine at the local True Hardware store. Same part # lock fit the missing lock in one of my saddlebags as well as the tonneau cover. The locks come with a couple different locking "arms"; I recall one of the arms ift very well but was not the one on the lock as it came out of the packaging.

I went to a local locksmith and got a new lock for $10. One problem with it though - it rattles inside itself! I took the drum out of the center of the lock and wrapped it with one layer of masking tape to reduce vibration, but it's still not perfect. Maybe when I get the rest of the Touring setup, I'll invest in some better, matching locks, and get Brass ones to add to the gold accents.

[cywelchjr]

I went to a local locksmith and got a new lock for $10. One problem with it though - it rattles inside itself! I took the drum out of the center of the lock and wrapped it with one layer of masking tape to reduce vibration, but it's still not perfect. Maybe when I get the rest of the Touring setup, I'll invest in some better, matching locks, and get Brass ones to add to the gold accents.

They can rattle a bit. In addition the headlight adjusting knob can rattle. Every so often I put a fresh rubber band on it to dampen the vibration. Of course the rubber deteriorates pretty quick, but rubber bands are cheap.

BTW, what's cool about that guy with the saddlebags is that he doesn't know what he has. If he just mentioned that they are vetter bags they would be gone in one auction, but because he just put them as goldwing, nobody but goldwing owners are finding them and they don't want vetter stuff it appears. I have noticed that the stuff on auction using the vetter name almost always sells quickly, unless it trash like the one trunk that has been on there for months. It's pretty thrashed and is missing half the rear lights, and the guy wants $79 for it with buy it now. Sorry, it's just not worth that much, one for a lot less (like $40) took a couple of months to sell, it will take someone pretty desperate to go for the $79 one. The one I got I got for $40 plus 29 shipping, so I figure I got a good deal on it.

[XJOK2PLAY]

Catatonic...

I believe you will be pleasantly pleased with your Vetter. I've got a Vetter 4 on my XJ1100 and love it. Took a 150 mile trip a few weeks ago with some friends from Stillwater, OK. to Guthrie, Ok. and back. Winds were gusting between 30-40 mph that day. Great protection. So much better than fork mounted windshields. (I got a funny story I'll share with ya someday about that in PM, if you're interested...)
It does take a little getting used to looking through the glass all the time, and you should treat it often with anti-fog if you plan on riding much in the rain...
I was also fortunate enough to buy mine complete with hard bags and a top trunk, which makes for a great place to lock and store my helmet when parked. Bought a set of lowers a while back from Cobia for it as well. It does have a tendancy to make it top heavy a bit... but you get used to it, and the extra storage is well worth it IMHO.
Like your bike. Ride safe!
Regards,
Bob

[CatatonicBug]

Bob,
Does your windshield go above your field of vision? That's one thing I'm tossing around, because Vetter, as well as many others, say that you're not supposed to look THROUGH a windshield, it's supposed to be below your field of vision. This is mainly for the issue of rain, and keeping the road visible when the windshield is wet and becomes distorted. I did clean it with the anti-for spray I have for my helmet visor, then RainEx'd the front side of it, So I'm trying to decide if I really NEED to cut it down. What do you think??

I also plan to add the bags and trunk, along with the addition of a left side lower (have the right side already) to make it a real Touring Package. Then, I plan on doing some detail-work to add gold accents and trim. I think that's gonna take a while though.

[CatatonicBug]

Here's a couple of pictures in the daylight. Better view of the imperfections.

[Bigfoot]

Looks nice.

[CatatonicBug]

Just thought I'd share some updated pictures. Thanks to dragxs11, I am now the proud owner of a gloss-black, powder-coated luggage rack! It looks perfect on my MNS, if I may say so myself! My next step is a Vetter trunk that I plan to get on Sunday, and I'm going to engineer some kind of quick-release thing for it, so I can just snap it on the rack when I decide I want it.

[XJOK2PLAY]

CBug,
Sorry it's taken me this long to come back to the thread! I just read your question this am...

Yeah, I have to look through my shield as I ride. But it hasn't bothered me. and it didn't take me too long to get used to it. There is a slight distortion, but not enough to bother me. I considered cutting mine down, but at times, I'm glad it's tall. Maximan had added one of the add-on upper lip shields to 'Zilla, and was cool.

(Hacked me off the other day... I was cleaning mine with the soft cloth I always use, didn't notice it, but it had picked up a small metal shaving on the cloth... put a scratch on mine!!! )

I read where you applied Rain-X to the outside of yours. Did it work ok or were there any problems? I've been told not to apply that to the acrylic shields due to the alchol & other chemicals in it.
I was all set to do it to mine, then read on the bottle where it says "for GLASS windshields only". Wondered how well it worked out for you.

Your Midnight looks AWESOME, dude! Great bike. Kudos...

[wa407mpp]

CatatonicBug! Those cam locks are made loose on purpose and are supposed to be lubricated with a water repellent lock grease, which should stop most of the rattling. Most friendly lock shops will lube it for you, free of charge, we lube car and bike locks all the time as a public service and to attract customers. If you don't have a "friendly" lock shop in town, just put the key in the lock, to keep those spring loaded wafers from flying out, remove the cam on the back and pull out the plug, leaving the key in the plug until the lock is reassembled, coat it with any good medium weight, Lithium grease and put it back together, after it is together remove the key and squirt a little grease in the key hole and work the key in and out a few times. StraTac, who makes almost all the locks used in American cars, makes a lock grease just for wafer locks, that should be available at most auto parts stores. It's a little expensive, but it's a big tube and will last a long time. This grease can be used on all your bikes wafer locks. Though you won't be able to, or shouldn't disassemble all of them, you can squirt it in the key hole and work the key in and out to get the job done. the preceding tip is for wafer type locks only not for pin type. or any other type of lock. Now a word of warning to everyone. "Never use graphite or any lock lube with graphite, in any ignition lock it will get into the contacts and short them out".

[webbcraft2150]

I've been looking on Vetter's site, and all he mentions is that you want the top of the windshield 1" below the horizon, and that you can trim it. He doesn't mention HOW to do that. Can anyone link me to some instructions?

I cut my own windshields for my Windjammer. Not really a hard task at all. My last homemade windshield was cut from 3/8, tinted acyrlic. I cut mine low so I can see over it but if the it rains I can duck down behind it. Pull the shield off the bike, lay several layers of masking tape over the area you want to cut. Your OEM shield will be curved so support and cut carefully. Mark a line and use a jig saw (electric) to cut it down. Watch your speed or the plastic will melt around the blade. I use a fine tooth blade. Be GENTLE or the blade can "catch" the plastic and break it. Once you have finished your cut, file and sand the cut area smooth, rounding off the edges. IF you wanna get real detailed, you can file /sand/polish the edge till its clear

[CatatonicBug]

Yeah, I have to look through my shield as I ride. But it hasn't bothered me. and it didn't take me too long to get used to it. There is a slight distortion, but not enough to bother me.

I read where you applied Rain-X to the outside of yours. Did it work ok or were there any problems? I've been told not to apply that to the acrylic shields due to the alchol & other chemicals in it.
I was all set to do it to mine, then read on the bottle where it says "for GLASS windshields only". Wondered how well it worked out for you.

Your Midnight looks AWESOME, dude! Great bike. Kudos...

Thanks, Play. I have left the tall shield on it, and so far, so good. I can see how it might be a problem in strong rain, but I have yet to ride in those conditions. I did put RainX on it, but almost the same day, I read a post on here (IIRC) that told me that RainX was bad for them. I went and cleaned it off immediately. I now use Plexxus, and really like it.

[CatatonicBug]

CatatonicBug! Those cam locks are made loose on purpose and are supposed to be lubricated with a water repellent lock grease, which should stop most of the rattling. Most friendly lock shops will lube it for you, free of charge, we lube car and bike locks all the time as a public service and to attract customers. If you don't have a "friendly" lock shop in town, just put the key in the lock, to keep those spring loaded wafers from flying out, remove the cam on the back and pull out the plug, leaving the key in the plug until the lock is reassembled, coat it with any good medium weight, Lithium grease and put it back together, after it is together remove the key and squirt a little grease in the key hole and work the key in and out a few times.

Thanks for the tip! I have already noticed some stiffness in the lock, after being in the rain a time or two, and going through a couple washes. I'll try the grease thing sometime this week.

[CatatonicBug]

I just picked up a Vetter trunk today for $40 from a guy who knew almost nothing about Vetter stuff. The side covers have been painted black, so they match the MNS paint scheme! The original electrical plug is missing, but the wiring is still there, so I will try to create my own plug/pigtail setup. I want to turn it into a quick-release thing, and since the trunk didn't come with the original mounting bracket or rubber bunkees, it's gonna take some engineering to create the right mounting mechanism. I know I can get the bunkees from ebay or directly from Vetter, but that's just another expense I have to get by SWMBO...

[wa407mpp]

You can also buy cam locks with the little flipper doors like car locks have built into the face cover, they run about $15.00 ea. but they are a better quality then standard hardware cam locks, or you can buy a protective cover which is spring loaded to snap closed when you remove the key and also have a rubber seal. Check with a lock shop and if you need more then one lock order them all keyed alike, and I think you can get either one in black.

[XJOK2PLAY]

Yeah... Plexxus is all we use in these parts. Works great as a cleaner and for the bugs, but the few times I've hit some rain... it doesn't help a lot w/ fogging or beading.

I've got a Vetter trunk on mine as well, and it's great for storage, (I can put my helmet as well as other things in there...) but it tends to make the bike somewhat top heavy, with the fairing.

Be careful... what I've discovered w/ mine is a sneaky little feature that can happen when you least expect it... sometimes when making right hand turns at slow speeds, (like taking off from gas stations!) It'll start off fine, (balance-wise,) and the next thing I know it wants to tip over to the right and lay down! I've had to catch mine w/ my right foot 3 or 4 times now. Scares the @%#& outa me!

But one advantage is having add'l brake lights on the back of the trunk... and at a higher level. PO had installed LED's on mine, so they're good attention- getters! Been thinking of adding one of the new flasher setups that make them flash 4 times when the brake's applied.

But I'm w/ ya about needing something like a Rain-X product to bead the rain! I wonder if car wax would work?

Anyhow... I'm gettin' a little jealous of your Midnight, CBug! Lookin' good.