Ultrasonic cleaner

[egsols]

You DO NOT light the torch

I hope you're not talking from experiance. (lol)

[prometheus578]

It's rare for the carb channels to get plugged.
Most carb problems of this nature are due to old gas, etc, solidifying in the jets and such due to sitting.
The jets and lower portions of the inner carbs are always submerged in gas. When the gas goes bad, so do they.
All the channels are above the float bowl. Running a bike without the air filter, yes, you can ingest some channel plugging grit, but that doesn't happen often.
Now, that's not to say that the channels can't get coated with old gas residue, but a few blasts of carb cleaner usually dissolves that.
Ray is correct, as always.
Either a vacuum leak, or another carb issue, Flatlander. You're running lean.
Pull the carbs again.
Spray carb cleaner into the air intake jets on the airbox side. One port should spray out of the main jet tower. The other should spray out the pilot jet tower, and if you put your finger over that hole, should come out the pilot screw tower and the little holes in the carb throat.
The other port is for the enrichener circuit and the last one, depending on the carb style, is for the bowl vent.
Reclean your jets, adjust your floats, synch the carbs the best you can and then bench test for fuel leaks before putting them back on the bike.

[Flatlander]

I'll agree that you both are on to something.

Vacuum leak? I've sprayed either around the intake side of the carbs and boots. rpm's do go up. My intakes are a couple years old, they do have cracks in them, very small, inspected the inside of the intake, looks real good there. I've tried sealing them with a gasket sealer coating. I've installed gaskets between the intakes and the head, from a ford pinto thermostat gasket with minor trimming on the outside of the gasket. Used gasket sealer on all surfaces to make sure a tight seal. I've used gasket seal on the intake to the carb, to also make sure a tight fit. I've cleaned the carbs really good several times to try and follow the triple carb cleaning routine. Used carb cleaner and high pressure air throughout the carb body. Soaked carb parts in dunk tank. They looked just as clean every time, after the first clean job. I've installed inline fuel filters, even though I do not have gunk in the bottom of the carbs and the carbs having their own steel mesh filters. I've used new gas. Added SEA FOAM. I've sealed the intake cap's and lines with gasket sealer to make sure no leaks. I have new hoses. Carbs have been torn down to the point just before removing the emulsion tubes. I'm a little hesitant to beat the tubes out, partially because I don't think the problem is there? I've adjusted the float bowls all to 25mm exact from the base of the carb and not measuring from the gasket tang either. Put carbs back together, checked float height, all is 3mm from the base of the bowl, measuring from the bowl bolt base. Removed and cleaned plugs, slight carbon, I beleive since it's not running very long off of choke, and installed new to see if there was a fowled plug situation. Install carbs, use either again on intake side, and still get rpm increase. Now my question that I ask myself is this: Are the fumes causing this increase, since the air box is off and the intake to the carb is so close. Are the 3 tiny ports at the top of the carb, where the butterfly last meets the carb body at closed position, clean. I can not tell. If they were plugged that would give me a lean idle run, since one of the 3 is on the engine side of the butterfly. So I look down through the pilot adjust screw and it looks great, day light through all carbs, but now how do I check the other two just back of that one, veiwing in from the head side of the carb? These two other ports have to do something with low to mid range rpm, were my problem lies. Or are they just fine and I've got butterfly end gasket leaks? I have removed the "c" clip sid of the carbs to see if they look allright, looks good, but that does not mean a tight fit.
Lightly use either around carbs, at the end gasket's, no increase of rpm, only when I apply alot across the hole carb intake area, which takes me back to it's just drawing it in through the intakes of the carbs. Use the little straw and spray lightly around the carbs no increase of rpm. Spray a little on the top of the air pilot srew and it stays there until it evaporates, which are set to two turns from seated. I'm back to thinking that the little ports are plugged up.?. Or does the either staying on top of the air pilot screw tell me something since I've read that you cannot cap these with the little caps that some carbs have? With my carbs, I don't understand why caps would affect mine.?. It is also strange to me that all cylinders are acting the same.
P.S. I do not recommend that anybody else use either on their own stuff!!! This has been used as a last resort to try and pin point a leak!

[John]

To check the cleanliness of the pilot circuit ( low to mid range) one thing I do is to seat the pilot screws and leave them like that. Then, with the pilot jet removed, open the throttle, and wedge something in the linkage to hold it open. Hold the carbs so you can clearly see the three holes on the top of the throttle body where the butterflies seal it off. Now stick the straw from the can of carb spray in the hole that the pilot jet sets in, and spray. You should see the cleaner spray squirting from these holes. Wear safety glasses for this. If any of these holes are plugged, you can use a strand of fine copper wire to clear them.
What kind of gunk tank did you soak the carbs in? The emulsion tubes (nozzles) can be tapped out using a small wooden dowel or a pencil. Don't use anything metal. That may damage the threads in the end of it. There are small holes on the side of the nozzle that must be open, and then spray cleaner through the orifices that surround the air inlet of the car. These passages lead to the pilot circuit and the main circuit. Make sure they are open.. Concerning the vacuum leak, it may be from the seals around the butterfly shafts. The caustic type of carb dip will mess them up. Also, are the caps on the vacuum nipples on the carbs boots soft and plyable? They can harden and lose their seal on the nipples. Just replace them with some 3/16 vacuum caps.

[Flatlander]

Thank you for the info.!!!

I believe that the solution is made by GUNK, but I want to tell you I did nit put the bodies in the tank, just the parts.
I will remove the tube then.
I'm also relpacing all philips head screws......ALL OF THEM!
Had allready replaced float bowl years past, now I'm doing the rest.
I think that I'm still looking for an ultrasonic cleaner though.
I have old things and I think other parts can benifite from an ultrasonic clean.....well old for me.....well not really that old......well not even old.....just.....um.....I don't have alot of $$$ to buy new things.....and just tend to hang onto things that I allready have.
Thanks again, back out to the shop.

[planedick]

Often missed

There is a small jet in the bowl that feeds the pilot circuit. Most people miss this little jet and if it's not clean the pilot circuit won't work right. One of those holes above the butterfly is open to the bowl during normal idle, two of those holes are open when the choke (enrichment) lever is out to the first indent and three of the holes are open to the idle jet in the bowl when the choke lever is all the way out. The idle screw allows for the metering of the gas to get the proper mix for a smooth idle. Make sure the jet at the bottom of the hole where the tube goes in the bowl is clean and open as it's the first to get plugged with debris being near the bottom of the bowl.

There is also many different types of carbs I've learned and also that I'm not always right about other's carbs or anything for that matter, so use my suggestions with plenty of forethought. LOL

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Brandon,

You might find this diagram useful! Uhmmmm Richard, I think this is one of those times where you may have oopsed on the fuel routing. The jet in the BOWL just feeds the Enrichener circuit. The Pilot JET in the carb body feeds the Pilot/Idle Circuit!

T.C.

[Flatlander]

Hey T.C., that helps make perfect sence!

Thanks for the diagram. I was wondering how long the little ports were in the top of the carb. That diagram sure does explain well that they are not that long at all.

[Flatlander]

Ultrasonic cleaner.

Yes everything comes clean with the ultrasonic. One part at a time does best.

[skids]

It seems like maybe a leak in the pipes or a bad muff.

um more like a puff through carbs. All of them are doing it. Can't get a good idle out of it.

[lakecountrydave]

I had the carbs cleaned this way on my old Honda Magna. They came out looking and running great

[Flatlander]

It seems like maybe a leak in the pipes or a bad muff.

Wow that was awhile ago.......trying to remember the fix........give me a second to run to the fridg and grab another DAB and search the memory banks............................................. .......Nope nothing.
I do believe that it was the carbs though. I cleaned these things with every kinda spray cleaner and soaker that was safe for the body and once set into the ultrasonic cleaner the stuff just rolled off the parts. That really works good, just takes some extra time to run the things through it.
I recommend having one.

Skids,
How can a hole or bad muffler cause this?
No back pressure or something? Just curious?

I had the carbs cleaned this way on my old Honda Magna. They came out looking and running great

Dave,
I also owned a Magna. Anything that has carbs and the manual suggest removing the motor from the frame................CRAP! Those were fun! I was able to get them out without removing the motor. I do remember that!

[jockeys]

I use an ultrasonic cleaner all the time, mostly for gun parts, but it's great.

I am going to be pulling and cleaning my carbs next month, I hadn't thought of putting them in the ultrasonic bath, but now that I think it it, it's agreat idea!

[lakecountrydave]

Flatlander: Those carbs were a joy I tried to us the tip from V4 site that suggested using a tie down strap from a truck around the carbs and frame to pull them off. I broke my strap! It was the first and last time I ever had a pro work on a bike I owned. Money well spent They did run great afterward. About 3 months later I sold the bike to a buddy of mine. He has yet to pick it up. It has been 3 years and one move with gas still in the tank since then. I think that the carbs need to be pulled again, and I wish him the best of luck with that.