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Thank you I thought your explanation was fine. Sounds like I will be running regular and saving money. Unless I get some pinging. See old dogs can learn new tricks
For the last six years I have been using Motorex 10-40 semi synthetic oil, states on the container "suitable for motorcycles with oil bath clutches "change oil and filter every year usualy 2-3000miles but $46 for a four litre container other oils are even more expensive
Haven't read everything on this one yet but I couldn't resist chiming in with the fact that I've been using 87 octane regular in ol' Rusty for nearly 30k miles. Runs fine with no pinging. The lower the octane the higher the energy content, or so I'm told, so if you can run the lower octane without pinging you'll have more power.
Speaking of power, day before yesterday I blew off another Harley over on U. S. 101 in Mendocino County. I passed him at around 75 mph but he passed me again at around 90 mph. We were running uphill into an intense headwind. This was a full dress Ultra Glide tourer with a big fairing with 2 headlights. He ran out of soup at around 105 mph indicated so I imagine he had a lot of money invested in hopping up his engine. I love blowing off somebody with $30k + invested in his bike with a rusty stock '79 Japan bike that cost me $200!
Shiny side up,
650 Mike
XS1100SF "Rusty", runs great, 96k miles
XS650SJ "The Black Bike", engine from XS650H with 750cc big bore kit, 30k miles
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in one pretty and well preserved piece, but to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, worn out and defiantly shouting, "WOW, what a ride !" - [URL="http://www.flyingsnail.com/Sprung/index.html"]Sprung[/URL]
but Hardleys are easy, even the V-Rod. Neighbor got one recently and was braggin', you know what that means. Beat him bad with 50 lbs of tools and parts on board in bags and box AND the 750 mod.......
You can't stay young forever, but you can be immature for the rest of your life...
'78E "Pathfinder" Show bike...
Lovingly restored by Dave Delzell
Drilled airbox
Tkat fork brace
Hardly mufflers
late model carbs
Newer style fuses
Oil pressure guage
Custom security system
Stainless braid brake lines
I know this,, a hot rod Sportster,, will smoke any of the big hogs..and our good ole gals will still smoke any of the new HD's. A pigelet will hang in there until about 85 or so. But they can be launched off the line quicker than anything else except a VMAX or a Norton 850....
I love this site..
If I knew I was going to live this long, I would have taken better care of myself..
Originally posted by Crazcnuk Well, the problem is people actually believe there is a difference between brands.
There isn't.
If any one believes this statement I have some ocean front property in Nevada to sell ya.....
Just google motor oil tests and you'll see each brand performs differently.
I have a sponsored 300zxTT I race. I know about some oil and extreme conditions.
Based on tests I have seen, and real life applications...These are the brands I know about.
Castroil gtx =Best bang for the buck good
Valvoline=good but not as good as Castroil.
Royal purple= not as good as you think.
Lucas=crap,(believe that too) It will foam up.
Mobile one 2nd best for cars, not good for wet clutch in bikes.
The #1 oil to put in a motor is Amsoil by far. It is possibly not good for our bikes though because of the wet clutch, but I could be wrong(and hope I am)
For the low rpm, mild performance vehicles that the average person is driving around at street speeds is concerned,
There is really little or no difference in the oil brands you will see at your local discount oil shop or gas station?
We can go around in circles for years, and basically, yes you can spend 3x as much for your oil and it will make your street vehicle and it last a little longer. Not enough to warrant the extra cost.
If you really want to save, run any full synthetic oil, filter it well and change it every 500,000 miles or so.
Its my understanding full synthetic isn't good for wet clutch right?
Were not talking normal every day street car driving. Were talking about 28 year old bike with extreme temperatures, and wear.edit: and we have what is ment to be a higher reving engine. Not a low rpm cruzer like a V Twin.
So I would imagine that we'd want a better than average oil.
Oil weight is possibly the biggest factor. And for that I'd just listen to the guys on here running in the same climate.
For me I am going with castroil gtx 20-50.
I find it best for older hot running motors like my 90 Jeep XJ rock climber with 150k. So it should be good for my XS11.
Still wondering about amsoil and our clutches though?
as long as the Synthetic oil dosent have any Friction Modifiers. Amsoil Motorcycle oil is fine with wet clutch systems and will even drop the cylinder head temp on an Air Cooled Bike i use it without any probems with my clutch in several older bikes . but then again its all up to the idividual user what they Prefer. just my 2 Cents on this slippery subject.
John
79 XS1100SF 750 FD,Galfer Brake lines,ebc brake pads,Cross Drilled Rotors,TKat fork brace,bead blasted wheels repainted and polished
80 XS1100 S Project gonna be a hot rod
06 CBR1000RR sold!!!!!
2000 Concours
84 Kawi KLR600
79 Yam XT500 Ouch it kicks back
79 XR250
Why is it that the smallest part can fly to the farthest part of the shop?
John
Originally posted by Paintman as long as the Synthetic oil dosent have any Friction Modifiers. Amsoil Motorcycle oil is fine with wet clutch systems and will even drop the cylinder head temp on an Air Cooled Bike i use it without any probems with my clutch in several older bikes . but then again its all up to the idividual user what they Prefer. just my 2 Cents on this slippery subject.
John
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