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**TopCatGr58** · 10-03-2006, 09:43 PM

Hey Dan,

Don't feel bad. Many times we hear hoofprints, and look for ZEBRAS instead of horses!

Folks have spent days trying to fix an ignition problem cause they had ALREADY fixed the Pickup Coil wires, so it couldn't be them, but their symptoms were PU coil type, and after Xhausting the other trouble shooting, went back and found their "FIX" had failed!

Heck, even my recent post about my tire fitting too snugly, having Xperienced that 5 years earlier, but forgot about it with the new tire, did the same thing and burned my fender and tire again!

But...concern about you burning out your bulb has me suggesting that you check your VOLTAGEs while running, to make sure you're not overcharging....Xcessive volts/amps can fry the bulbs, may have a Reg/Rect problem developing??
T.C.

**oseaghdha** · 10-04-2006, 03:50 AM

Oh, I don't feel bad, it was quality time yah know?
I heard hooves and was looking for elephants.
I will check the regulator though.
I've been driving this thing since Saturday, switched on the highbeam on the way to work because the lights were adjusted low. Did not notice any flaring.
I did zing it a bit before the bulb fried, could be a freak thing. None of the running lights need changed. You would think the fuse would pop before the headlight turned into a flash bulb.

**Just In Case** · 10-04-2006, 04:48 AM

You would think the fuse would pop before the headlight turned into a flash bulb.

Checked my Hella Catalogue, says:

Headlamp bulbs are rated for 13.2V Signal bulbs at 13.8V
5% overvoltage = half the life
5% undervoltage = twice the life and 83% light output (100% @ 13.5V)
10% = 67% light output (100% @ 13.5V)

So mightn't take too much of an overvoltage condition for too long to pop the bulb. It wouldn't use too much extra current, so a fuse won't provide protection.
Say 60W bulb at 13.2V = 4.55A, so R = 2.9 ohm
Volts becomes 15V, current becomes 5.17A, Watts = 77W. Bulb won't last long like that?
Also a connection that's making and breaking so the lamp's flickering will shorten it's life too.

Hook up a voltmeter to check the voltage whilst the XS is running, take it from there. 14.4V at the battery is ok, but no more. Wiring losses should drop that down at the headlamp to the 13.2 range.
I've got some H4 60/55watt +50's to try. They are meant to put out 50% more light and give a 10-20m longer beam for no extra current.
I've read that bulbs lose output over time, can't find data for H4, but H3 are rated for 450 hours, H9 for 500hrs.

page 200/1 http://www.hella.co.nz/site_resource...s/12bulbs1.pdf

page 69 http://www.hella.co.nz/site_resource...Fs/06work1.pdf

Anyway, I sees you say the other bulbs are ok, so perhaps your RR is ok, but I've been looking into this subject as my tractor as 8 55W worklamps and 2 headlamps and I trying to figure out a few things, so there's some info I figure the board in general would be interested in.

Cheers
Dave

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