R-12 replacement options

[excess11]

What r-12 freon replacements has anyone tried? I am not really looking to go the r-134a route. I would like to find a drop in replacement. I have heard that, Freeze-12 and Enviro-safe refrigerants work good for r-12 replacement. Any expierence with these or any other replacements that work good !!

[Targetman]

I tried a product called Duracool.
Duracool website
Kit came with two small cans of their hydrocarbon refrigerant and a small hose with adapters for r12 or 134a systems.
It did make my system work again, when I bought the car the system was so emty that the compressor would not even come on. It is not as cold as it should be, but I didn't know how much to put in, so I am going to try again. Bought the re-fill kit at a Napa store here in Canada. I don't know if they carry it in the U.S. but the Duracool website says U.S. residents can buy directly from them.
My car was R12 by the way.

[LoserShoes]

A change to R134a is not really that big a deal, you can buy the kits for not a lot.

And regardless of what you change to, you really got to pull a vacuum on the system to dry it out.

Steve

[excess11]

a/c

I have a vacuum pump that can draw 28 inches of vacuum so that is not a problem. It was a lucky yard sale find for $10.00. Works perfect! I hear that to do a propper 134A changeover. You must dismantle the entire system flush out all of the exsisting oil replace all o rings. Then put in synthetic oil and 134A charge. I was told the disadvantage of 134a change over is the chemical make up of 134A is much smaller than that of r-12 so a tiny leak with r-12 is a gusher with 134A. Is this correct?

[eroellig]

Re: a/c

Originally posted by excess11
I have a vacuum pump that can draw 28 inches of vacuum so that is not a problem. It was a lucky yard sale find for $10.00. Works perfect! I hear that to do a propper 134A changeover. You must dismantle the entire system flush out all of the exsisting oil replace all o rings. Then put in synthetic oil and 134A charge. I was told the disadvantage of 134a change over is the chemical make up of 134A is much smaller than that of r-12 so a tiny leak with r-12 is a gusher with 134A. Is this correct?

I believe that R134A does have a smaller molecule size, so it will leak easier.

The biggest thing that I know of to having your converted system perform like the original is that R134A systems need a condenser (the part in front of the radiator) to have about twice the surface area as is required for R12.

Eric

[webbcraft2150]

Try this site for full info. www.ackits.com

[ccogswel]

I was told by an old a/c man, that r12 needed to have vacuum pulled on the system as there can't be air mixed into the system with it. But as the r134 you didn't have to worry about pulling vacuum. If you use a replacement alternative to r12 you may ask if you have to worry about any air you let in when you hook up to refill. There is a way to purge the line as you hook it up. Just make sure you hook up to the low pressure side I think, if I remember correctly. It's been almost two years ago when I done it myself.

If I was you I would just convert to r134. Just replace the o-rings with new ones. Flush the system and replace the dryer. Pull vacuum to about 23lbs or what ever you can get and let it sit for a hour with the gauge hooked up to see if you have any leaks. If your lucky fill up and be cool

[LoserShoes]

It's not so much having air in the system, it's the moisture. Haveing chunks if ice in the evaporator aint gonna make it work to good.

Steve

[HobbyMan]

I believe that R-134A has a less heat capacity than R-12. So you need more of it to do the same job. AKA: larger compressor, etc.. On small cars you don't notice it. If you live in the South, some places in Mexico, right across the border, sell R-12 real cheap if you just need to charge your system. I wouldn't switch unless I had to. "If it ain't Broke don't fix it"