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Replacing the Rear Wheel Bearings
By Gary Granger
Earlier this year (2002) I replaced my rear wheel bearings on my 1980 XS1100G, here is a quick write up of the procedure for changing them as well a list of bearing and seal numbers. I replaced the bearings because the disk side bearing felt notchy. Always check the bearings while the wheel is off for tire changes or some other reason (I was replacing the rear disk) since they are not accessible any other time. I had about 85K miles on my bike when I changed them. I am not sure of the service life of these bearings, but the fronts still feel fine. For the pictures in this Tech Tip, I actually used two different rear wheels, the std one had the brake disk, and a special without a disk so keep that in mind.
Getting Your Bearings:
To do the rear wheel bearings (there are two of them) you need 2 seals and two bearings, here is your shopping list and approx. discount prices from Zanotti's (Feb. 20, 2002):
Seal, 93102-25360-00, $3.01 (Retail $4.52)
Seal, SO Type, 93104-27026-00, $3.15 (Retail $4.73)
Bearing, Cyl, 93313-62010-00, $23.07 (Retail $31.51)
Bearing, 93306-30437-00, $7.69 (Retail $10.50)
Shipping $8.00, Total was $44.92
The right side bearing is a very common NSK 6304Z, BUT Yamaha has superceded the single shield bearing (93306-30417-00) with the 93306-30437-00 (double seal) shown above. Here is the new Yamaha bearing:
So if you want a double sealed bearing then these are a few of the exchanges you can use:
FAFNIR 304NPP, 304PP
FAG 6304-2RS, 6304PP
SKF 6304-2RS
NSK 6304DD
Other bearings will work including ones with single shields or seals and even one like I used with a double seal and a locking ring, you just take the ring off and toss it. I still have the Yamaha bearing I bought in a drawer.
Yamaha is the only source for the left side cylindrical (needle) bearing (Bearing, Cyl, 93313-62010-00) I looked in all of the bearing exchange manuals and it was made for Yamaha only. Sorry, but will have to go to a Yamaha Dealer and get one. Again, this time with some feeling…..YOU WILL HAVE TO BUY THE BEARING FROM YAMAHA. That being said I am posting the numbers off the bearings I have seen, as well as the dimensions so if you want to look for one you can. I measured an old one and it is a needle bearing, 23.0mm wide (I measured 0.905 inch), ID is 20mm (I measured 0.786inch), and OD is 37mm (I measured 1.4565 inches).
The writing on my old bearing:
INA-NTN r2
NA 5904 V1
The writing on my new bearing:
INA-NTN v2
NA 5904 V1
Another list member had this:
INA-NTN i3
NA 5904 V1
So I assume the r2, v2, i3 (also saw a u3 on the list) must be a date code.
A list member called ‘Goose’ came up with a solution for this bearing and wrote the following:
As you may know rear bearings are bloody expensive !!! (yes I know, gross understatement) so if you want a cheaper option I found this works.
Brake side is standard 6304z about £8. Drive side should be 5904 (one off size made ONLY for Yamaha about £45+vat) OR I use 2x6904 about £3( same bore and OD but only 9mm thick) so you will need a spacer made(37mm OD, 25mm ID, 5mm Thick) and place BETWEEN the 6904's when you reassemble.
As they say 'The proof of the pudding .....' and it does work as I ride my poor 78 special like a bastard and they are still as good as new after 6 months of all weather riding!
Hope this helps .
Goose
However, I looked at a 6904 (same brand INA) and it is wider, same interior and exterior dimensions, just wider. It will not work! I am not sure what bearing ‘Goose’ used but a 6904 (INA) is not right. If anybody can find this bearing, let me know the info and I will post it here. Here is the stock bearing and a 6409 bearing side by side:
New info - added 2/33/05 - Another list member has come up with a solution but it seems more expensive than the original but here's the info from DriverRay:
I did some homework today, and found the SKF part number for the two narrow bearings to replace the roller on the rear of the Eleven. The bad news is they list for $75.00 each in the US. The bearings are not used much, and cost almost twice as nuch as the stock bearing from Yamaha.
The number is SKF 61904-2RS . They are 20mm ID, 37mm OD, and 9mm wide. I did find one source, and it was going to cost about $54.00 each, plust the $20.00 it cost for the spacer I had built.
I think that Yamaha is the best bet for that bearing, as long as it is available. - End of new info
Here are the seal numbers if anybody wants to try and find a cheaper replacement. Rear Wheel Oil Seal: Right side, manufacturer Ars, part number SD 25 38 6-1. Left side, manufacturer Ars, part number SD 27 52 5.
Tooling Up
You will need only a few hand tools to get the bearings out (once the wheel is off) I used a seal puller, dead blow hammer, regular hammer, large snap ring pliers, a couple of chunks of 2x4 (to put under the rim to protect the disk as you hammer away) and a brass drift.
A drift is simply a punch that is tapered on the end so the narrow part of the taper can rest on the outer race and exert full force at that point. You can make your own pretty easy with a good quality piece of steel rod and a grinder. Mind you, it won't be hardened on the end making it not quite as good as a drift, but it might be enough to remove the bearing. – Brian Shepley
You may also need a bearing driver, when installing new bearings it's good practice to pound on the race that has the interference fit.......if it's pressed into a counter bore like on the wheel, then be sure to install it by pounding/tapping only on the outer race. This eliminates transferring the load thru the rolling elements which could cause damage. You can also make your own bearing driver from the old bearings like I did.
Posted this before, an old trick I learned from a mechanic.
Once you have the old race out, cut a slot in it with a bench or angle grinder. Use the old race as the driver for the new race; it fits the bore exactly, and the cut in the side makes it easy to remove once the new race is seated properly.
This eliminates having to tap on the new race, which can be a problem if the race is seated well below the 'lip' of the bore. I've used this technique on wheel bearings on cars, motorcycles, and trailer hubs. Typically I place a piece of wood on the race instead of pounding directly on the metal.
Jerry Fields
Check out the following pictures showing the old bearings cut and ready to use as drivers. Great tip Jerry!
Changing the Bearings
You need to pop out the disk (right) side bearing first. This is the larger of the two bearings. Start by removing the seal with a seal puller or small screw driver.
Then take the large snap ring off.
Now flip the tire over and remove the seal and metal collar from the drive side.
Pull the center out of the small bearing to allow access to shift the flanged spacer over and hammer on the back of the big bearing. Make sure you took THE SNAP RING OUT FIRST, as I said above, or no amount of pounding will get this bearing to move!
Once the right side bearing is out, turn the wheel back over and remove the flanged spacer.
The smaller, left side bearing only has two small landings (or cutouts in the rim) on the back to place your punch so it is a tight fit to get in here and it takes a while to work it out. Hit evenly on both sides. This picture shows one of the landings at the 2 o'clock position, the other is at 8 o'clock out of view.
Once this bearing is out you are ready to start putting the new stuff in. If you need to cut the old bearings to use as drivers, first clean them up in a parts washer or with some other type of solvent, then cut the slots in them. You need to cut all the way through the outer race so it will come out easy. You can throw away the center race and needle rollers from the right side bearing.
Basically you need to drive the left side bearing in first. Use your bearing driver or old bearings as drivers. The center of this bearing just falls out, so either take it out first or just be careful with it. Make sure your tools are clean so no dirt gets on the exposed needle rollers. Just hammer it in until it stops, you can turn the wheel over and check with a flash light and a right angle pick to make sure it is properly and evenly seated. This is important!
Next flip the tire over and put the flanged spacer in, the flange on this spacer goes up towards you, against the bearing you are about to install.
Now drive in the larger right side bearing. Again check to make sure the bearing is seated properly. It will sit just under the snap ring groove.
Now you can install the snap ring and new seal.
You can use the old bearings to drive in the seals as well but be careful, they are easily damaged. Always put a very light smear of oil or grease on the lip (inside) of the seal to prevent damage when the axle is installed.
Next you can install the oil seal the other side. Just make sure the metal collar and the center race of the bearing are in place before you hammer the seal in.
That's it, just put the wheel back on and enjoy!!
By Gary Granger
Earlier this year (2002) I replaced my rear wheel bearings on my 1980 XS1100G, here is a quick write up of the procedure for changing them as well a list of bearing and seal numbers. I replaced the bearings because the disk side bearing felt notchy. Always check the bearings while the wheel is off for tire changes or some other reason (I was replacing the rear disk) since they are not accessible any other time. I had about 85K miles on my bike when I changed them. I am not sure of the service life of these bearings, but the fronts still feel fine. For the pictures in this Tech Tip, I actually used two different rear wheels, the std one had the brake disk, and a special without a disk so keep that in mind.
Getting Your Bearings:
To do the rear wheel bearings (there are two of them) you need 2 seals and two bearings, here is your shopping list and approx. discount prices from Zanotti's (Feb. 20, 2002):
Seal, 93102-25360-00, $3.01 (Retail $4.52)
Seal, SO Type, 93104-27026-00, $3.15 (Retail $4.73)
Bearing, Cyl, 93313-62010-00, $23.07 (Retail $31.51)
Bearing, 93306-30437-00, $7.69 (Retail $10.50)
Shipping $8.00, Total was $44.92
The right side bearing is a very common NSK 6304Z, BUT Yamaha has superceded the single shield bearing (93306-30417-00) with the 93306-30437-00 (double seal) shown above. Here is the new Yamaha bearing:
So if you want a double sealed bearing then these are a few of the exchanges you can use:
FAFNIR 304NPP, 304PP
FAG 6304-2RS, 6304PP
SKF 6304-2RS
NSK 6304DD
Other bearings will work including ones with single shields or seals and even one like I used with a double seal and a locking ring, you just take the ring off and toss it. I still have the Yamaha bearing I bought in a drawer.
Yamaha is the only source for the left side cylindrical (needle) bearing (Bearing, Cyl, 93313-62010-00) I looked in all of the bearing exchange manuals and it was made for Yamaha only. Sorry, but will have to go to a Yamaha Dealer and get one. Again, this time with some feeling…..YOU WILL HAVE TO BUY THE BEARING FROM YAMAHA. That being said I am posting the numbers off the bearings I have seen, as well as the dimensions so if you want to look for one you can. I measured an old one and it is a needle bearing, 23.0mm wide (I measured 0.905 inch), ID is 20mm (I measured 0.786inch), and OD is 37mm (I measured 1.4565 inches).
The writing on my old bearing:
INA-NTN r2
NA 5904 V1
The writing on my new bearing:
INA-NTN v2
NA 5904 V1
Another list member had this:
INA-NTN i3
NA 5904 V1
So I assume the r2, v2, i3 (also saw a u3 on the list) must be a date code.
A list member called ‘Goose’ came up with a solution for this bearing and wrote the following:
As you may know rear bearings are bloody expensive !!! (yes I know, gross understatement) so if you want a cheaper option I found this works.
Brake side is standard 6304z about £8. Drive side should be 5904 (one off size made ONLY for Yamaha about £45+vat) OR I use 2x6904 about £3( same bore and OD but only 9mm thick) so you will need a spacer made(37mm OD, 25mm ID, 5mm Thick) and place BETWEEN the 6904's when you reassemble.
As they say 'The proof of the pudding .....' and it does work as I ride my poor 78 special like a bastard and they are still as good as new after 6 months of all weather riding!
Hope this helps .
Goose
However, I looked at a 6904 (same brand INA) and it is wider, same interior and exterior dimensions, just wider. It will not work! I am not sure what bearing ‘Goose’ used but a 6904 (INA) is not right. If anybody can find this bearing, let me know the info and I will post it here. Here is the stock bearing and a 6409 bearing side by side:
New info - added 2/33/05 - Another list member has come up with a solution but it seems more expensive than the original but here's the info from DriverRay:
I did some homework today, and found the SKF part number for the two narrow bearings to replace the roller on the rear of the Eleven. The bad news is they list for $75.00 each in the US. The bearings are not used much, and cost almost twice as nuch as the stock bearing from Yamaha.
The number is SKF 61904-2RS . They are 20mm ID, 37mm OD, and 9mm wide. I did find one source, and it was going to cost about $54.00 each, plust the $20.00 it cost for the spacer I had built.
I think that Yamaha is the best bet for that bearing, as long as it is available. - End of new info
Here are the seal numbers if anybody wants to try and find a cheaper replacement. Rear Wheel Oil Seal: Right side, manufacturer Ars, part number SD 25 38 6-1. Left side, manufacturer Ars, part number SD 27 52 5.
Tooling Up
You will need only a few hand tools to get the bearings out (once the wheel is off) I used a seal puller, dead blow hammer, regular hammer, large snap ring pliers, a couple of chunks of 2x4 (to put under the rim to protect the disk as you hammer away) and a brass drift.
A drift is simply a punch that is tapered on the end so the narrow part of the taper can rest on the outer race and exert full force at that point. You can make your own pretty easy with a good quality piece of steel rod and a grinder. Mind you, it won't be hardened on the end making it not quite as good as a drift, but it might be enough to remove the bearing. – Brian Shepley
You may also need a bearing driver, when installing new bearings it's good practice to pound on the race that has the interference fit.......if it's pressed into a counter bore like on the wheel, then be sure to install it by pounding/tapping only on the outer race. This eliminates transferring the load thru the rolling elements which could cause damage. You can also make your own bearing driver from the old bearings like I did.
Posted this before, an old trick I learned from a mechanic.
Once you have the old race out, cut a slot in it with a bench or angle grinder. Use the old race as the driver for the new race; it fits the bore exactly, and the cut in the side makes it easy to remove once the new race is seated properly.
This eliminates having to tap on the new race, which can be a problem if the race is seated well below the 'lip' of the bore. I've used this technique on wheel bearings on cars, motorcycles, and trailer hubs. Typically I place a piece of wood on the race instead of pounding directly on the metal.
Jerry Fields
Check out the following pictures showing the old bearings cut and ready to use as drivers. Great tip Jerry!
Changing the Bearings
You need to pop out the disk (right) side bearing first. This is the larger of the two bearings. Start by removing the seal with a seal puller or small screw driver.
Then take the large snap ring off.
Now flip the tire over and remove the seal and metal collar from the drive side.
Pull the center out of the small bearing to allow access to shift the flanged spacer over and hammer on the back of the big bearing. Make sure you took THE SNAP RING OUT FIRST, as I said above, or no amount of pounding will get this bearing to move!
Once the right side bearing is out, turn the wheel back over and remove the flanged spacer.
The smaller, left side bearing only has two small landings (or cutouts in the rim) on the back to place your punch so it is a tight fit to get in here and it takes a while to work it out. Hit evenly on both sides. This picture shows one of the landings at the 2 o'clock position, the other is at 8 o'clock out of view.
Once this bearing is out you are ready to start putting the new stuff in. If you need to cut the old bearings to use as drivers, first clean them up in a parts washer or with some other type of solvent, then cut the slots in them. You need to cut all the way through the outer race so it will come out easy. You can throw away the center race and needle rollers from the right side bearing.
Basically you need to drive the left side bearing in first. Use your bearing driver or old bearings as drivers. The center of this bearing just falls out, so either take it out first or just be careful with it. Make sure your tools are clean so no dirt gets on the exposed needle rollers. Just hammer it in until it stops, you can turn the wheel over and check with a flash light and a right angle pick to make sure it is properly and evenly seated. This is important!
Next flip the tire over and put the flanged spacer in, the flange on this spacer goes up towards you, against the bearing you are about to install.
Now drive in the larger right side bearing. Again check to make sure the bearing is seated properly. It will sit just under the snap ring groove.
Now you can install the snap ring and new seal.
You can use the old bearings to drive in the seals as well but be careful, they are easily damaged. Always put a very light smear of oil or grease on the lip (inside) of the seal to prevent damage when the axle is installed.
Next you can install the oil seal the other side. Just make sure the metal collar and the center race of the bearing are in place before you hammer the seal in.
That's it, just put the wheel back on and enjoy!!